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a) I have been tempted, including to drive it through the shop window of the engine builder, but it's not insured for what I could sell it for. And b) I started a new full time job and it hasn't been a priority to take it to someone else until recently.

Took it to a different tuner. They spent the day tuning the new injectors etc... then handed it back. Didn't fix the 2000rpm while coasting problem. Took it back and said "hey, what gives?" they said "oh, yeah, I tried but nothing I did seemed to work". "So you just handed it back not fixing...

new battery fitted, which is good because now it's not even starting without mashing the throttle. Perhaps the chinese 42lb injectors are putting too much fuel in on startup. It revs fine now, doesn't seem to be struggling or missing when accelerating, just idling like crap. With the IAC valve...

Installed a full different set of new injectors, it still stutters. Battery isn't happy being drained all the time so will have to replace that tomorrow. I know low voltages can cause some problems. The car is drivable so will drive it to my local parts/battery store and get the new battery...

It's a Howards double row kit to go with the custom grind cam. I believe it is fully adjustable as it even cam with a handy-dandy degree-ing chart. I found on a forum post about a guy with an LS1 powered Cobra kit car that has EXACTLY the same rev runaway problem. It is totally 100% the...

ITEM: 2002 Series 1 V2 CV8 Monaro, 6spd Manual. PRICE: $33,500 for a Forum Member (advertised $35k elsewhere) LOCATION: WA, Rockingham Area YEAR: 2002 (I think August build) SERIES: V2 Series 1 BADGE: CV8 ENGINE: LS1 5.7L TRANSMISSION: T56 Tremec 6Spd COLOUR: Phantom Black Mica EXTERIOR...

Not what you want to hear, but I hate this. This car was original when I had it and sold it. I spent thousands finding original parts and reproductions to match the original. I carefully stripped the interior, replacing what needed to be replaced, fixing what needed to be done. I painstakingly...

I spent this morning retorquing the rockers to 22nm. The push rods are perfect and the lifters give a little under finger pressure. I don't think they've failed. I have also previously replaced the vacuum lines, the coolant temperature sensor, TPS, IAC Valve, throttle body, MAP sensor, spark...

Engine builder tested it, claimed the throttle position sensor was the cause, charged me $240 to replace it. Didn't fix the problem. Now the engine is deteriorating so I'm 100% convinced the builder blocked an oil gallery and it has caused lifter failure. The day I first picked up the car from...

I suspect the cam was degreed wrong and the valve timing isn't right. Misfiring, occasionally backfiring, excess of vacuum and a bad metallic rattling sound? Yeah, valve timing being out ticks all those boxes. Still gotta wait until the 24th when the engine builder can take the car, but before...

Yeah, still trying to go to 2000rpm. Also, it's misfiring and rattling once the oil is warm. Booked it in with the engine builder because something is fundamentally wrong.

So it didn't do it this morning until I put the AC on do defrost the windscreen. Even then the AC only made it rev to 1500rpm. Once the engine was warm after 5 or so minutes driving the AC didn't do it. However, on the drive home it DID do it again, but only wanting to rev to 2000rpm. So, I...

I spent several hours reading all sorts of threads allover the place and found someone experiencing almost identical problems. It's a symptom of the Throttle Cracker and Throttle Follower tables in the ECU. They're factory so thus why it happened with both my ECUs. They "crack' the idle air...

Speedo works perfect. Had a mate with a tech 2 set the right pulses per second when I changed the diff gears years ago, so the speed sensor is still sending the right signal because the speedo is still GPS accurate. ABS seems so far out there... but it makes me think I could at least eliminate...

There are no leaks. Sprayed every possible part of the intake, injectors, IAC valve, spark plugs... not a single bit of difference in idle. It idles fine. It's not the cable. It's not IDLE... it's REVVING when MOVING. Sitting still it idles as it should no problem whatsoever. As soon as the...

Well that firm belief has gone to hell. 9th drive today, decided to take it to work so early morning engine stone cold and frost in the air. It ran-away to 3000rpm. It's NOT the ECU or tune because it wasn't even using the "tuned ECU". Did a heap more internet diving and found this one thread...

So reinstalled the original "locked" eBay special MAFless tune ECU that I've had for 10 years and took the car for a drive. It drove EXACTLY as I remember, even down to the overrun exhaust burbles. Of course it was much lumpier and it was clear it was running on a different cam that still needed...

So, tuned ECU back in and first drive was perfect. Second drive was perfect. Third drive, first thing cold morning and it started, revved to 1500rpm for a while before settling, then didn't rev up when rolling out the driveway... however as soon as I started driving away it revved itself up to...

I'm going to say the VATS has been disabled on the VZ, thus why the VT key starts the car. Try swapping the fob with any other one and see if they also starts the VZ using the same metal key part (they are clearly the same bitting). If the third fob doesn't start, then yeah, lucky you have two...

ecotec don't "stretch" timing chains, don't fry alternators (and need to take the wheel and inner guard off to replace them), don't fry coils and coil wiring all the damn time, and don't need an intake gasket set to service the spark plugs.

Today I put the old ECU in and it started right up and straight to 750rpm idle. Of course it was a little rougher than the tuned ECU. It sat there idling happy, throttle blips didn't float, it didn't rev when rolling. Put the tuned ECU back in and it started up and immediately went to 1500rpm...

I'm South of Perth, Rockingham region. I'll give the Start-Ya-Bastard a go just to eliminate that, but I very much doubt it. It has always done it since the cam and tune, and it's a constant rev, not jumping. When it runs away it will sit at exactly 3000rpm, when it just "floats" it will sit...

Update... 10 years on! Still have the car. Oh boy, has it not aged well. Two front end collisions when living in Adelaide, so new headlights and several paint jobs. Paint is otherwise crap and clear coat peeling in places. Roof lining is sagging. Boot leaks water. Rubber trims are either showing...

I had mine done at Dickers Speed Shoppe in Mandurah. Would NOT recommend. Maybe I'm just the unlucky one, but it has been a headache, and they sent most of the work out to others to do (like Bells Engines) anyway. They also don't tune themselves. They're a parts shop with a hoist for oil changes.

Hi I need serious help. Just spent nearly 10 grand on my V2 Series 1 Monaro LS1 (cable throttle) with a full engine reseal, head work, cam and tune and ever since it has a problem that happens more often than it doesn't. As soon as the car starts moving, even in neutral (6 spd manual) the revs...

Thanks heaps. I'm after a 2003 / series 1 VY for the BCM details as I'm using a WK series 1 dash cluster (2003). I've got a 211 High BCM to wire in but only 3 plugs on the loom(s) I've bought but the BCM has 4 sockets. :( The car it's going into, and thus the original BCM loom, is a 2002 VX/V2...

I paid $450 for an ebay mail order mafless pcm/tune 7 years ago and got 224rwkw on a dyno with everything else stock, the clutch on the way out and the water pump started leaking after lol. Given it's a manual I calculate that around the 280kw at the fly. It was a JC dyno day at Kwinana...

So will ANYONE with ANY KIND OF VY WHATSOEVER even bother to have a look at their BCM plugs?

nothing in a week... I'm hoping it's just the one VY Calais LS1 owner on the forum has been busy... so any VY Monaro owners out there that could help? Also what BCM number is installed in the VY Monaro if anyone can help.

Hi All, I need someone with a VY Calais V8 to do me a huge solid and check their BCM to see how many plugs are connected to it. Also if they could try to identify where those plugs are connected to the loom, that is three together and a fourth off somewhere else? My project has developed the...

Alright, so I've sorted the problem. SomethingDontLookRight by s_ikari2015 posted Nov 29, 2016 at 5:02 PMThatsClose by s_ikari2015 posted Nov 29, 2016 at 5:02 PMHmmTooMuchAir by s_ikari2015 posted Nov 29, 2016 at 5:02 PMTheresYaProblem by s_ikari2015 posted Nov 29, 2016 at 5:02 PM Seems that...

When rubber goes bad

You can hope all you want for a fatal engine incident, but as long as it has oil and water (in separate locations) it won't die. Ecotec FTW!

Did either of them check for fault codes?

I'd have to agree it would end up being cheaper finding another Stato with everything working that's wrong with this one. If this one has good parts you could salvage, do it and use it as the donor car for a replacement Stato. You're talking hundreds more for the speed sensitive steering rack...

Possible immobiliser issue, did it shut down or just go into limp mode?