Blown head gasket?
There's going to be a leak somewhere, it just might not be the obvious places. Get the coolant system pressure tested if you can't find it.
They have a pressure switch so if enough gas leaks out the switch will shut off and the air con won't engage (preventing harm to the compressor).
It's likely that's where your problem is.
Can't talk for the VE, but I've got Maxxis MA-Z1 on my VT (19") and Dad has them on his VU (18").
Decent tyre for the price, can't complain, would definitely buy them again.
Oh, btw the MA-V1's are cheaper and nowhere near as good as the Z1's.
I fail to see how you will get a VY kit on there since the guards, headlights, quarter panels, boot are all different.
Unless you mean a fake VY HSV kit :bang:
IMO the VT looks best lowered on nice rims, no other changes (except to remove the side protective strips if you have them)...
There's a grommet on the passenger side behind the strut tower, as mentioned earlier, with NO engine wiring running through it. Easier to access from inside than the clutch grommet, and what happens when you do a manual conversion later :p
VT-VY V6 use ALDL
VT Series I V8 (5L) uses ALDL
VTII V8 (5.7L) on use OBD2
There are scantools for ALDL on ebay for about $150-180, but they won't do the Gen3.
Barina...you'd have to check that one! Don't know what protocol it used.
VX SS rims always look good on any previous Commodore. At 17" they don't look small yet the tyres are still reasonably priced.
As for the body kit, I wouldn't do it. Take the mud flaps off and remove the black side protective strips (there's a tutorial on JC on how to do it), then lower it a...
The superpro ones are supposed to be a bit softer than nolathane, so give a bit better ride. I found them to be good quality and easy to fit. Can order these from Supercheap for something like $140.
Put these and a strut brace on and found my steering is much more direct and controllable...
You could buy a 100m roll from Dick Smith and just add the connectors to the ends.
Should add that the stuff DS sells is Cat5E, so should be capable of 100m+
I agree, sounds like some good mods have been done already. Only thing would be a camber kit in the rear if it hasn't been done or if its not a VXII.
I'd save your money for worn out bushes, air con compressor, etc. Only upgrade parts if they wear out or fail. I wish I'd taken this advice on...
NSW iced coffee drinker here. Went from Oak to Ice Break and been drinking Dare for quite a while now. I'm not sure if the FU in NSW is made in a different place to SA's, but every time I've tried FU up here it's been average.
I can only imagine what the real stuff tastes like. Might go to...
Or think about ordering the Superpro ones. Supercheap can order them or talk to Not_An_Abba_Fan. Cheaper than the Holden ones, but less likely to collapse again. They're polyurethane rather than rubber.
If your strut tops are gone, chances are your radius rod to chassis bushes are too. They...
My first thought would be to use a sound/body deadener as VYMAD suggested. I would be thinking something more along the lines of dynamat (a bituminous layer with foil layer).
The stuff VYMAD is talking about is a tar like deadener you can buy in a tin and brush on or spray on. I would use...
VR/VS was not welded in. They were glued in from the VN to save costs. The VT ended up suffering the same fate.
If anything, not having a strut brace allows flex between the strut tower and the body, and can cause it to crack away (has started to occur in my car). It would be reasonable to...
Yes, manual memcal fitted. I have tried refitting the auto memcal to test the tune and all the symptoms remain the same.
As for balancing, the Mal Wood flywheel comes with alignment holes for the auto crank. He has done many conversions on these cars without issue.
Replaced the harmonic...
I would have thought they would have kicked the can by now if they've been stuffed that long.
Another symptom is shuddering on gear changes, or more specifically when releasing the clutch after a gear change.
Weird thing is the power seems quite good on a cold night and the fuel economy...
I think that box would be the BCM.
No, there is a huge grey cover under the steering wheel, you pull that down and the fuse box will be staring you in the face.
The cover the red arrow points to just pulls down.
Hmm well the pulsating pedal is the least of my problems, just one of the symptoms.
Anything else I should be looking at to diagnose what is happening?
Didn't notice it beforehand, there may have been a slight miss at idle but nothing like it is now.
Do you think the input shaft of the gearbox might be moving the crank somehow?
Those saying camber kits have done nothing, have you done a 4-point (toe & camber) or a 2-point (just camber)?
The VT suffers from bad rear camber as well as very bad rear toe (unadjustable from factory on pre-VX2). It is the opinion of many that extreme rear toe out is the cause of rear tyre...
Some of you will have read my previous posts on flywheels and my poorly running VT Ecotec.
I successfully completed a manual conversion 12 months ago, but have had problems since.
At the moment, it comes down to the crank seeming to wobble. At idle the crank bolt & harmonic balancer are...
Hey dean, the Mal Wood flywheel came with holes to match up with the machining holes in the auto crank, and temporary pins can be used during tightening to ensure good alignment.
The flywheel came balanced for an ecotec. To be sure, you could probably take the pressure plate and flywheel...
Could be your airbag light/warning but that particular bulb is blown? Airbag warning will chime every time the car is started.
Anyone with a Tech 2 should be able to read what the warning is for.
As your car is a series 1 VX you will need the 4 point camber kit. As well as this and the springs you will probably need short body shocks (especially at the SSL end). This will help with ride and handling.
It's probably worth just leaving them as they are. I think an executive with no door protector strips, lowered on 17-18" rims looks great. Just get some Black WOW or other plastic trim detailer to make them black again.
Painting them just makes them blend in and something I regretted doing...
The last few threads on here don't seem to go into it, but the door strikers on the VT tend to lose their plastic covers, allowing the latch to have movement on the striker.
I haven't tried new strikers yet, but I have experimented with belt grip & adjusting the strikers.
Belt grip...
Be really careful! That's some good advice.
If you are going to use Meguair's, try ScratchX, it's made for what you want to do. Just follow the directions on the pack and don't go overboard.
Probably the first thing to do is wash it & use a clay bar, this will deep clean the paint ready...