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I reckon I'm going to do 1: since I'll have to get the box out to get my money back, might as well finish the job and put a working one back in. That way I can do number 2: so I don't end up back at post #1 again. Hoping the car is roadworthy enough so that 3: is not needed.

I estimate maybe $1000 in parts, with a bit of hassle getting rid of the shell and the parts to begin with. Whereas I go that bit more (get the box sorted and fitted) and sell the whole car with arguably less hassle for $1500

So with some thanks to this forum and a lot of hard work, I have looked after my 1999 VT II S Pac manual over the past 6 years. Work undertaken includes changing all suspension bushes (polyurethane) and shocks and upgrading to a vy IRS complete with LSD, radiator, battery, inlet manifold gasket...

I have a similar problem with mine that I've never been able to resolve. I've found that priming the fuel system 2-3 times helps, however never have the occasion 'normal' start. Been on here for a while and haven't found a thread that resolves this particular issue, so hoping that it can be...

I was did a search for the same problem that this bloke has (mine is just on the drivers side and I go through around 1 maybe 2 litres of oil per 10000k's/oil change). I too have changed my inlet manifold gasket in the past and it is still clean around there a few years on. I had a good look at...

Thought I'd dig up this thread and share my experience. Found this video, probably on here: Commodore VX2 Ignition Key Barrel Repair 1 - YouTube there are 3 parts to it. Watch it like I did and it tell you all the 'tricks' to coding a new barrel. Then it should take you half an hour tops if you...

the strut bar to chassis bush or control arm inner bush?

why are you changing your z bar bush? if it is for the reason that most people change them, then you will have to give more detail about what you have gone and done so that you can get more better and accurate advice

Replace the head gasket now before it warps the head!!! You are probably going to be a very lucky person because the gasket has most likely gone without warping the head, of course to be sure you will most likely have to take it to the engineers (or your mechanic will) to make sure it is dead...

If you cared to look into the link that DLFHUB666 posted, it is for a performance chip that suits your needs. Apparently Greenfrog or whatever his name is, is the way to go. You tell him your mods, he sends you out a memcal to suit them, you give him your old memcal so he can keep doing it for...

Not too sure. I know with the BA Falcon, the drivers side is higher than the passenger side to compensate for the fat Ford drivers always weighing down the drivers side. If there are no wheel alignment issues then I'd say it isn't a big problem and probably common amoungst other commodores

I fitted mine when I did the IRS upgrade and believe it was a good thing especially for a manual. I did it because i thought 'why not, while i'm in there' I think some mechanics will fit them if the bush is already slightly worn/torn and it fixes that up, so a worthwhile upgrade i guess

if you can't glue them back on (I used hot glue gun for 1 of mine), then yes, buy a new/used one

The camber won't even come close to being 'right'. A pedders did that to me once, said that there is no warranty on the wheel alignment due to worn suspension components (when nothing was worn that bad). I have factory lowering (FE2) and with a camber kit and a bit of a tweak of the control...

I too am after this, a clutch industries clutch kit in particular, around North eastern suburbs. May very well need the rear main done while they are at it.

Great question! I put them under the rear jacking point (for the scissor jack incase of flat tyre) when I did mine by memory. they don't look to god anywmore. Cracker, read the whole thread carefully so that you can make an informed decision on whether or not to do this modification...

I am yet to see a VT without the mounting point for the toe adjuster on the 'knuckle' of the control arm. Having said that, I have heard (probably on here) that some VX's did not have this mounting point on the 'knuckle' of the control arm. So what you must do if you are considering this job...

VE nuts have a different chamfer, so you will also need to get nuts to suit your stud and chamfer combination or the nut will not mate properly with the wheel.

I asked my mechanic a similar question and he reckons that you can bend a GM one over your knee. The adjustable ones can be adjusted tighter or looser and of course are much more rigid, so you do get your moneys worth. Having said that, you'd have to be going pretty fast around a pretty hard...

whatever you do control arm wise, make sure that you have a voided bush on the inner pivot. I just chnaged my control arms after a year, the toe adjusters had chewed out the urethene adjustable bush on the inner pivot. The voided bush is just metal on one side and rubber on the other (factory...

Just throwing it out there... they did replace the slave cylinder right? And it was the whole unit of course, not just the inside parts. Mine has started to engage a bit high recently too and I had mine replaced not too long ago, so I hope i Just need to bleed it/replace my clutch that has been...

Bump. This is a worthwhile mod: see http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/vt-vx-holden-commodore-1997-2002/107256-vy-irs-into-vt.html

it didn't fix mine :( If your car also coughs and splutters when you boot it (accelerate hard), then it could be your problem. It's back to the drawing board for me. As for Vt's having to replace the whole rail?? I thought all of them are removable?

ITEM: A VX series 2 to VZ crossmember with toe adjusters, will bolt into a VT, se eBay ad for more details. LOCATION: Pickup in Eltham North, VIC CONDITION: Used PRICE: Bidding starting at $99.99, looking for this price if it does not sell anyway. DELIVERY/PICK UP INFORMATION: Pickup...

you have a series 2, so you have the toe adjuster link and therefore 1 adjustable bush on either side max, if they have been fitted. Why are you replacing the control arm? No need to buy a new one as used ones are fine. The same can not be said about front bearings as they will cease up or...

half way through changing both of mine atm. You will need an 8 mm allen key and flare nut spanner for the break line will give you many less headaches as the brake lines are made of soft aluminium, so round off quite easily with an open ended spanner (can't use the ring), they also bind up, so...

starting the engine from cold, use a can or 2 of degreaser on the engine (with it running), then pressure wash it off (still running). The water can't damage the electronics when running, with that little bit of heat and it won't damage the metal from rapid cooling because your engine is...

yeah probably easiest to fully remove, rather than partially remove (on the right side) the bumper. I couldn't work out how to fully get off the side skirt, but removed most of the screws so I could pull it back to get to the guard bolts/screws. You will need the right sized flat head screw...

Yeah a gasket costs a couple of bucks tops, so it is worth the time putting it in to save on the hasstle later. From what I gathered from what 'evil twin' said was that the LS1 runs best in terms of performance and engine life between 82 to 92 degrees celcius. Assuming that the Buick block has...

I have heard that a 4 point camber/toe kit will put extra strain on these drive line components, so if he has one, then a switch two a 2 point kit could help, although failure this quickly surely could not be completely due to a camber kit. When you say 'legal limits' how low are we talking...

just picked up a new fuel pressure regulator from Holden today for $90. I have the same symptoms as you and have done the same things to try and fix it, so fingers crossed that this will fix it. Easiest to partially remove the fuel rail (don't have to disconnect fuel lines), might as well do...

I second that. When I got my camber fixed I was getting some rubbing, so this guy was recomended to me. You can probs get the rears done for $150 - $200, with the piece of mind that you won't stuff your paint DIY ing

The bush can be pryed out with a screwdriver (decent size one). There are 3 spots around the bush where there is room to do this. I'd say you could partially remove the crossmember, enough so that you don't need to disconnect brakes etc. but this could prove tricky, as could getting the bush out...

These are the ones that i got: VN VP VR VS VT VX VY COMMODORE V6 ENGINE MOUNT (eBay item 170567870375 end time 18-Dec-10 13:35:11 AEDST) : Cars, Bikes, Boats They are hydraulic filled and seem just fine. If you are looking to DIY there is a how to, in the how to section. Called something like...

I've just been doing some research on the IRS for the VT - VY and have found that the VT series 2 has a track width that is 5mm narrower than the VT series 1 and VX onwards. This is according to Holden VT Commodore Specifications Now it may be a typographical error, but I have previously...

I probably would have preferred to go to to work for a day and pay $130 for the mounts to be fitted by pedders. First time I did it, it took me all day. If i did it again, I could do it in 2 - 4 hours tops, possibly an hour for the third time?

the ones i bought you could shake to hear the hydraulic fluid. I pulled my old ones out, one was gone, the other still had some fluid in it.

Yep, at least outer cradle mount bushes, unless the doner ones are in VGC and you will get at least 100,000k's out of them, otherwise you will just have to pull it out again, at least partially to change the bushes. It helps if you have done some work on your car before before going ahead and...

your car is ten years old (or older) now, so matching old to new paint won't result in perfect results. Having said that, I bought the touch up paint from Holden for less than $15 and it looks better than chips, some chips only go down to the white undercoat. A lot of people say that the...