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the weber conversion isn't a hard conversion, and it does have huge benefits over a warn out varajet, the reason i know this is due to the fact i am running a weber on my vc, but definitly check your float level and also check your secondaries

your spot on, it turns out to be the for the dwell control for the wipers

with my experiance of the varajet carby they all end up getting a flatspot in them, even ones with the standard exhaust system, once they get old the best thing to do with that carb is throw it out the door

gday, personally i'd do it myself, the webers are a very basic type of carby so there pretty easy to do, took me about half an hour to do the weber on my vc

heres a curly one for u all, i have aquired another vc to rebuild and noticed the alternator is not an internal reg, not thinking much of it till today while stuffing around under the dash i noticed a white box on the drivers side just above were the bonnet release is, this is only the second...

backfiring through the carby generaly means that it is firing with the inlet valve open, timing is a fair way out for that to happen, if your positive that the balancer is correct take your plugs out and turn the motor to 6 degrees btdc on number one then adjust the dizzy to suit, i.e line the...

yes the coils are different between hei and est, but it does sound like your 180 deg out on your dizzy

the only thing i didn't do when i put the rear bumper on is bolt it along the side, the mudflap screws held it in place nicely

the rear is easy to do, the hardest part is mounting the mudflaps, not sure about the front one though as i haven't done that one

all i did was pre fill my filter and pump with oil, but the vaseline trick does work but some pump manufacturers will void there waranty if they find out

yep she be a manual

i don't think i'll be able to do that as it is absolutly caked in tar under the carpet, but if i get a chance this weekend i'll see what i can do

basic rule for turbos is more boost less compression, so if your gonna increase your boost your best of reducing your compression

could be a fuel pressure issue

nah, it's definitly a crack, the pic doesn't show it properly, the camera focused on the steering for some reason

that is soooooo true

that all depends on everything else, lights, rust, suspension rubbers, tyres e.t.c,

crap, my bad, i was thinking extractors, to help reduce the risk of snapping the bolts theres a product like wd40 called bolt off, it's the one of the best products i have found for seized bolts e.t.c, i have even used it to un-seize an old villiers motor and it worked a treat

sorry to say this but no, you will have to undo the manifolds to remove it, when i took mine out to put the smaller one in all i needed to do was take the fan belt of to move the alternator a bit and undo the manifolds, ooh, and disconnect the battery

well heres the pic, i went and checked my other vc and it's got it aswell, seems like it could be a common prob.

well while under the hood this weekend trying to solve a carby issue i noticed i have a crack in my firewall about 2 inches long and about 3 inches away from were the steering comes out, my question is this is there any point in getting this welded up or is it just going to happen again in the...

when you go looking at the wreckers for the weber be carefull, as there was a re-call on them years ago but there still may some out there that weren't rectified, the fuel inlet used to be a press in item on them but they found that they tended to fall out, not a good thing to have happen...

go to any wreckers, they should have loads of those carbies

it's not an easy job, thats why i have a bosch high torque starter, there a damm site smaller and can be removed without touching the extractors, but on the plus side the more you do it the better at it you become

lol, sacred it is, but if i keep it manual it will cost me, new performance clutch and diff centre, the centre to try and take some pressure of the rest of the driveline

just thought i would see others opinions on this, now that the new motor is well and truly run in i'm having clutch issues already, it's a brand new standard vc clutch on a machined flywheel but it doesn't seem to be handling the extra power that the motor has and has started slipping a tad...

my suggestion would be to go to a mechanic that deals with performance vehicles and ask them,

i'm guessing there 6 cylinders? if so i'd probably be more inclined to just change the starters, as to do it the way u want requires you to lift out the motor and box together, as you said there is less bolts to undo but once you add removing wiring, hoses and everything else it's easier to just...

rears are easy, just a matter of undoing the top nut in the boot and the bolt on the diff housing, the fronts on the other hand, u'll need spring compressers and a rattle gun comes in handy

whatever the hell it is it don't sound good, sounds like it's dieseling,

yep from bundy, nice place to live, big enough but not to big like the cities

thats why the 34adm weber is so popular, i'm currently in the process of seeing my fuel use now that i have the new motor in with the weber on top, and i have to say i'm very impressed, with the old motor (2.8 or 173 old school) and varajet i would just get over a week out of a tank, now with...

major vacuum leak, while the choke is on the extra fuel minimises the effect of the extra air in the system, well thats what it sounds like to me

by chance have you checked your dizzy cap? could be a slight crack in it or even a bit of moisture in there

the paint is standard sage green minus the mettalic base (big mistake doing this as when they removed the mettalic base colour they never put another base colour back in, made it an absolute bitch to paint as it's very transparent) with a purple pearl over the top

chances are that it is a dodgy plug, i had that issue on mine after the head work, turned out that 2 of the new plugs i bought were dodgy, seems to be a very common problem lately

try ebay, occasionaly you see them on there too

any auto shop should be able to get you one, the only problem you'll have is that the adaptor plate needs adapting, theres 2 points on the weber that will hit the adaptor plate, the choke throttle adjuster and an arm on the other side of the carby, it has a roller type thing on it, all i did was...

the hole may be the same but i think the profile in-dentation in the rear quarter is different aswell to allow the different shaped indicator

they should basically be the same, but when i was hunting for one i noticed some had a fuel return, but it shouldn't be to hard to blank that off