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Best to contact via PM, I don't check the listing often.

LOCATION: QLD, Brisbane Western Suburbs DELIVERY/PICK UP INFORMATION: All items can be posted at buyers expense, but pick-up probably better for the larger items. PAYMENT OPTIONS: COD, Direct Deposit, Funds Transfer (before pick-up or postage) CONTACT DETAILS: PM Most of the items...

As above the gromet is most likely, but worn out sway bar link pin bushes can also make a groaning noise.

I may be wrong, but my understanding is that you only see error codes logged while the car is running with the ALDL cable. To see the previously logged codes you use the paperclip. I use the cable to check sensor readings but I have never been able to display logged DTCs with EFILive, so I just...

Sounds about right, thanks guys!

Have you ever looked at the sensor output with EFIlive or equivalent? All I can go by is my experience, and that was the car ran fine but seemed to use a LOT of fuel when cold and on short trips. I replaced the O2 sensors and that made a big difference of about 15% to my overall fuel economy...

I recently spilt some brake fluid on concrete while bleeding the brakes. I washed it off once I was done (~2 hours), and got rid of the oily type residue, but now there is a white residue that I can't scrub off. I have tried degreaser, detergent and it doesn't budge. One possibility is that...

They actually do make a voltage, just like a galvanic cell you may have made at school (i.e. zinc and copper into a lemon). The earthing issue I was referring to, was the one where current leaks from the heater wire into the sensor circuit. This is generally fixed by cutting the pink wire...

I was getting this code and it was due to the common earthing issue on the oxygen sensor. Have you fixed that before?

With regard to the Stato, climate control will open the heater tap whenever the A/C is on. If you turn the A/C off, and select a temperature higher than the ambient temperature, then it was also open the tap. The tap should be closed if you turn the unit off, or if you turn the A/C off and...

Well, I've learnt something. I assumed that the pump only worked in one direction, so that if you disconnect the lines, you no longer have fluid circulation, and you would only get oil pumped out, not sucked back in.

You'll never drain the whole lot that way anyway, definitely less than the service refill. There will still be a lot of fluid in the TC and in the pan. The fluid will always look dark in a bucket, and as long as it looks red on your finger it shouldn't be burnt. However, it is the dust and crap...

I should have been clearer, I would have drained the contents of the cooler, done it all back up and checked the level. Then done the same again if it was still high. If you haven't got the cash for more fluid, you will have to make a judgement call on whether the fluid is clean enough to put...

It is clearly overfilled, and is probably the reason why it doesn't change. Why don't you just drain some from the transmission cooler and check it again? Once you get it into the normal region you might get a better idea if something is wrong.

Unlikely the cog it stripped, more likely your aerial is gets stuck at some point from a prior injury. The motor is located behind the plastic cover in the front wheel arch. There is a bolt that goes throught the body and comes out near the ecu (passenger side kick panel), and you will need...

Not worth his salt if he thinks your VS has a map sensor :)

Sorry for the dig. Which loctite? I have a the blue thread sealing compound and would like to know if I need a different type.

Well mothballs are no longer napthalene, they are a dichlorobenzene, and I don't know what effect that this would have on your fuel - but the presence of chlorine suggests that it is probably a bad idea. Also, you can't just throw them in the tank. The old formula ones had to be dissolved then...

Yes the return line is attached to the back of the '5 nut plate' - I (probably incorrectly) refer to the entire assembly as the sender unit. The pump and sender unit are also attached to this plate. With regards to the Gregory's, your local library may have a copy or Supercheap.

There is the return line inside the tank that also needs to come of the sender unit (that will be providing some resistance), and you have to make sure you rotate the sender unit clear of the swirl pot before you remove the unit (it is in the Gregory's from memory).

Well on quick inspection, it seems there are no other ports at the top of the filler neck for the vapour separator lines to go into. So it would seem that there is not meant to be a vapour separator - Unless anyone else can shed some light on this?

There is certainly no increase in power for me. With regards to sound, all I got was a drone under load. I have recently put a stock system back on mine after the sports system wore out, and the car seems to run better. Each to their own, but I would save your cash for something else.

I was looking at the filler neck on my VS I sedan today, in preparation to replace the vent hoses. However, there is no vapour separator clamped to the filler neck as the Gregory's manual shows, and the workshop manual I have. The build date is 5/96 - were the vapour separators removed from the...

I think you will find there is no bolt missing. There are a number of locator holes around the pump and sometimes people forget to take the pins off the old pump and put them on the new one.

I bought a set from rare spares mid 2009 for ~$60 - P/N 92049120 (RHS) and 92049121 (LHS)

The tap is open with no vacuum

Found it, thanks. The picture I was confused by was a drawing with the bushes described shown in red. When I clicked on the installation manual it was clear where they went.

What is the nolathane part number for the diff mounted bush? 46008? I bought parts to do this job a few months ago (haven't got round to it yet) but only got the upper trailing arm bushes (46003) and the one that presses in to the lower rear arm (46004). I didn't get the other one because I...

When I replace my a/c idler pulley, this sound started, and disappeared after I changed the serpentine belt

It is an earthing problem, whether you need to replace the sensors or not is difficult to say. Wait till you fix the earthing problem and then have another look at the cross counts and voltage swing of the sensors. To fix the problem, you can do three things (in increasing order of difficulty)...

Are you having any starting problems? A bad alternator will connection can cause charging problems, and the ECU will increase the idle voltage to overcome this. It will also make the transmission downshift constantly to keep the revs up. When the cable on the back of my alternator started to...

Vacuum hose to the fuel regulator?

A quick Google search says 81 is a 2 - 3 Shift Control Solenoid Fault. My Gregory's doesn't tell you anything more that it is transmission related, and tells you to take the car to a mechanic! But there is no doubt threads detailing how to fix this problem.

You probably already know, but you will always get the fault code 12 displayed 3 times, did you wait for the next batch of flashes?

Yeah, my workshop manual and Gregory's say 63 L, but the owners handbook says 59L. My low-fuel light comes on at just over 50 L, which is consistent with the 59 L tank, but that is not to say there is not an extra 4 L in the tank, I have never run the tank dry to find out. Did they change the...

Interesting that the Caltex Oil-Finder website used to recommend 10W-30 for the Ecotec (including the VS) and they now recommend 20W-50. Not sure whether it was a mistake on their part or not. I have always used Delo 400 (15W-40), initially out of convenience more than anything, as Dad always...

The trip computer gets the information directly from the ECU. You manipulate what the trip computer reads out by changing the calibration numbers - It has no influence on what is going on under the hood.

Mine does ~8L/100km on the highway, but does ~14L/100km in the sort of driving you describe (a little higher with the A/C on). Which I think translated into about 350km when the fuel light came on. So I don't think that 15L/100km is extraordinarily high. In my opinion, anyone serious about...

You want a CPC 538-20 cap - you can get them just about anywhere (stay away from the Trident caps from what I have heard). In any case also check the neck of the radiator, cap won't help if the problem is there.

Two new ones? The only way the coolant can get to the overflow is past the cap. If it is not the cap, then you should check for chips/cracks/crap in the neck of the radiator that is stopping the cap from sealing properly