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Buy a donor car, unless you have extensive knowledge and scan tools like the shops above, you basically have to swap everything - none of the V6 components are interchangeable, including the gearbox. Stuff all the way down to the ABS module is different (or at least coded to the specific config...

Usually the cutting out with a change of speed or direction in or close to a turn is because the line to the swirl pot in the tank has perished. The fuel in the tank changes direction and moves away from whatever fuel pickup point it was using to compensate with.

Does it happen when you're turning? Mainly turning right?

Unless there's an actual problem that you've identified and effects how the car drives, don't base your problems on what you think about the engineering numbers. There are a number of parameters that govern idle speed and how much throttle is needed to maintain that idle.

What is a "proper" LSD? Admittedly Holden's stock clutch type ones have been pretty bloody average, but like everything else there are advantages and disadvantages to each type of LSD. There are different styles of clutch based LSDs (clutch packs, cup and cone), and there are some excellent...

In theory yes, but it also makes it much harder (and slower) to take off from a standstill, so unless you're only constantly doing highway K's with no stops the opposite can happen because of the amount of extra energy it requires to take off. It's a balancing act unless you're at the polar...

No. Immobiliser switches stopped in the VP, their modern integration means that they don't experience the wiring problems they did before which necessitates the switch.

Yeah, if you want to have an immobilizer circuit, immobilizing the button won't do much. Cutting the button after the car is stolen won't do much if the car is on and driving when you immobilize it. You want to immobilize stuff like the fuel pump, ECU, ignition system etc. You also want to hide...

Araldite is not good for automotive use, it's a glue, not really a sealer and will have issues with heat. Use something like RTV or on of the Permatex silicones, something similar to those anyway, The pipe is press fit, so likely with some gentle persuasion (think like wiggling a tooth) you'll...

Maybe describe what you're trying to do as tapping into the button directly is probably not a good idea, particularly if the button is hooked up to canbus instead of a simple momentary switch.

Unless you've been through the ID process, I've been led to believe in the past all Commodore T5s (at least from the VN onwards) are World Class. The one WC list I've looked at briefly doesn't mention Falcons or Commodores, so IDK. A few threads around, you'll need to search here to dig them up...

Something along those lines. I really have no idea about drag setups, but there are definitely some who somehow use squat to their advantage and swear by it depending on the design of their IRS.

Live axles are much easier to manufacture in different sizes and take more abuse than CV shafts. It's also much easier to modify and change the rear track and put your own mounting points on the axle tubes. There's also a few ways to centre it - watts, panhard, triangulation etc.... Basically...

It may bolt in, and you may have the engine loom and ECU, but electronically it's not a plug and play deal. The ECUs are coded to the modules in the cars they came from, so unless you have a scan tool capable enough of recoding everything you're gonna have a bad time. It's also highly unlikely...

Single material/piece parts that don't have complex mechanisms like fittings are generally fine as long as you know what to look for and what their limitations are likely to be if they're particularly cheap. Took a pretty long route for all the drivers side runners, are you still going to be...

Holmart sell genuine and aftermarket parts, it's pretty clearly stated in their listings though. I bought a genuine LS1 Mitsubishi alternator from them and the box had the GM part sticker with the hologram on it. As for ozcarparts, if it just states "OEM quality" or "direct replacement"...

Haven't tried leads yet? That's a pretty basic and easy one for ignition. Done any tests for vaccum leaks?

Common for older calcium batteries that are on the way out to give these kinds of issues on VEs/VFs too, they seem to be pretty sensitive. If you replace it, make sure you replace it with a calcium battery. If it's the alternator you should be able to test with a multimeter.

The Buick and Ecotec used different methods of balancing, Buick flywheel on an Ecotec apparently vibrates like a mofo. If it's the Getrag flywheel that's already in the ute then I'd wager it's a lot thicker because it's dual mass vs the T5 single mass (just go look at pictures of them). Pretty...

Does the ute drive or did you buy it as a roller? If it's a VR/Buick setup then the flywheel will be balanced differently and will vibrate pretty good if you just bolt it straight to the Ecotec.

"Whole conversion"? Didn't it come with an ECU? Is it for a VS? Because it doesn't sound like it, they should use the same plug. If it's not then swapping the plugs isn't going to do anything for you. What's the part number on the flywheel?

If you still have the original ECU, you should just be able to pull out the memcal chip and put it into the working one. Like I said, the ECUs are largely (AFAIK) the same and all of the tuning differences are on that chip. Chances are good that the memcal is fine even if the ECU is fried.

Sounds like a classic vacuum leak, checked for one? Was there another throttle sensor on the throttle body you swapped?

Not sure what you mean by auto commodore "blinking up and down", the auto VS I had never did that. Does your speedo work?

I take it you're looking at ebay? The "police tunes" from ebay tuners are usually there just to trick P platers out of money. Ebay tuners have historically been garbage, so unless it's original don't buy anything that's been "improved" from there.

Most Commodore strut braces just go from tower to tower, and TBH I doubt they do very little for this problem. IMHO you should get the opinion of a panel beater if you're really worried, (on other cars at least) a lot of the time it's just the top layer of seam sealer and paint has cracked over...

If the codes for the other models are anything to go by, then probably. AFAIK the ECUs themselves are largely the same, the differences between them are the blue memcal chips inside which you can take out and swap around. To my knowledge there haven't been issues running later models on earlier...

Have a look at this list: https://forums.justcommodores.com.au/threads/memcal-id-codes.96150/ The first number listed is the memcal ID, the number after the engine/trans is the ECU it comes in. They're not really tied to particular years or models (outside of the obvious), the memcal is just...

That sounds like an immobiliser issue. Does the remote unlock the doors?

The dash gauge is kind of a relative indicator, it's not as accurate as you'd like it to be and it never actually indicates an actual temperature. While it increasing from normal isn't good, on that gauge 3/4 doesn't mean it's overheating and you don't actually have any grasp on what the...

Don't fall into the trap of discounting it just because you replaced it some time ago. Usually the thermostat breaks outright so it's not speed related, but there might be something stopping it from opening fully ever since you did your timing chains. Even correctly working thermo fans will...

I remember there was a silver VS Commodore that was fitted out suuuper similar to that concept car at the National Museum of Australia years ago (no idea if it's still there), but for the life of me can't find any info on it.

No picture. What are the part numbers of the two?

Depends on the width and offset of the wheel, but on a 20 that will be pretty damn tight so height will also play a pretty large roll. Even if the width and offset are good, don't be surprised if you need to massage in the inner sides of the wheel tubs with a mallet.

Just trying to coax out more info, but that doesn't mean it's running rich.

Why do you say it's running rich?

I remember reading somewhere that they're generally recommended to be replaced every 80,000kms, it might have been a shock manufacturer so take that with a grain of salt if you want. None the less, they're a part that fails extremely slowly, so much so that somebody who drives the car a lot is...

Doesn't the VE already have an alarm that just uses the horn?

Generally won't find metallic flakes (bearing material) in a cooked gearbox unless it's completely grenaded. If it's just free reving it's more likely cooked clutch packs/bands or solenoid and servo issues.

You can probably split the headlight apart in a hot box, heaps of videos on youtube about doing it, but you can't buy the lens separately so it's kinda pointless.