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Gee no wonder mechanics are making such a hard living. And yes the price you paid is reasonable, ofcourse yes some shops may be cheaper annd some will be more, but you havent been ripped off. Are the engine mounts genuine or after market?

engine mount?

Start off with simple thing like leads and plugs. If you have a set of plastic fuel line clamps, have the car running and disconnect one lead at a time from the coil pack. You will find which cylinder it is when you pull one off and notice no difference. Or if you dont have that you can just...

Would still crank with faulty CAS, wouldnt slow the crank down, as above sounds more battery related, only as you havent mentioned anything about the battery, have you tried a new one? Or tested the one in there?

Do you mean it doesnt move or it is coming out and something holding it back? Pulled the tail shaft and gearbox mounts undone?

ITEM: 1998 Holden Commodore LOCATION: Sydney, NSW YEAR: 1998 SERIES: VT Series 1 BADGE: S ENGINE: 3.8L Ecotec TRANSMISSION: 5 Speed Manual COLOUR: WHite EXTERIOR CONDITION: Fairly good INTERIOR CONDITION: Goodr TYRE CONDITION: All 100% TYRE SIZE INCLUDING LOAD...

Look im not getting into an argument about this, just read what i said and think what you want but im only speaking from experience. Yes my gramma may not be perfect but that really has nothing to do with this. Choose to believe me or not but I am only talking from the years of experience ive...

If you can spend the extra dollars and go with a named and proven tyre, dunlop, pirelli, goodyear, continentel etc. Most of these other cheapies will yea feel ok, but the compounds used in these youl start to see strange things happen after a while. Kunhmos for example tend to always develop...

who is doing the inpection, or are you having to take it to the pits or something? becuause ive never known a mechanic to test the handbrake this way most will tell you what others here have already said.

ive got a pocket from on old eb falcon i think below mine. Old mate from work pulled it off a falcon we had and said put it in your car and it actually fits like a treat

mate all depends on the mech you take it to really on how thorough they are in the check. Most will prob let it go, some might pull you up for the window. Anyway just did it for a check and they can let you know exactly. For a 20-30 dollar check they can say exactly what it needs or doesnt...

sounds more likely one of the things decicrate mentioned. If you want to see if the clutch is slipping find a hill, take of normally and put in staright to 3rd or 4th and accelerate. If its slipping the engine will rev but provide non or little drive if its ok it should just bog down

sounds most likely to be wheel bearing is it louder the faster you go?

so did you replace the cam sensor? sorry just bit hard to make sense of what you typed. if you could give a bit more detail as to what exactly it is doing when turning over and what not so we can get more info to help.

had a few vs having a similar sound but was told by my old boss who used to work for holden that it was due to the shallowness of the auto pan all the oil slushing around. dont know if this is your problem though maybe someone else has heard of this

have the car running and block the tip of your exhaust with a rag and see if the noise gets louder, and the system holds pressure.

the solid flywheel is ok not much difference you wouldnt even notice. a must do for when your clutch craps itself and yea i would say taking it to for a dyno tune may be the only fix. Ive aso had a mechanic put this suggestion to me In theory it would be just as simple as a sticky tps but as...

might help to give a more clear explanation, at what speeds, in or out of gear etc most likely your cones worn out or the axles/driveshafts, dont know a commodore with lsd that doesnt do this

ive known vs gearboxes to make a similar sound due to the pan being so shallow but i think the problem was resolved after the vs, idk maybe someone else has seen this in vt not sure.

is it overheating?

when you say you feel it go into first wat do you mean? cos if its only idling it obviously isnt in 1st. why do you want to bang it in 1st at 40ks? cos if your box/ converter arent already rooted this is just a fast track to make sure it will be.. yes engine braking may save your brakes but...

pretty sure it wont affect the insurance as they only tend to care about things which are likely to attract thieve, such as wheels and steo units etc but it would be best to ring them and make sure

youl never have to replace them again

got a set of ve ss 18's with all 75+% tread if your interested, and your willing to organise postage

try giving the starter motor a tap with an extension bar or something then try start it, if you have a mate with you get them to tap it while you turn the key

try and source yourself a set of the ball joint ones the make now 10 times better than the standard bushes

maybe they didnt tighten the tie rods back up when alligning it?

i have this on my vt and i hate it lol yea its due in relation to the emmision control and egr valve, which is why the super6 and v8s dont do it. Not to say that if you block your egr or something it will stop, pretty sure you cant do anything about it, and love for someone to prove me wrong...

yea my moneys on pump and/or hoses too. have a look at the left side of the pump where the hoses go on, sometimes all it takes is replacing the clamps as the become loose over time, put some weight on the clamp and try to turn it to see how tight it is

any chance youve got the factory 5 speed knob?

do you notice it alot when in paky lots? it sounds like the cv, if you can jack the rear and and have it out of gear and just grab the wheel and ty to "roll" it, you will notice if theres any play in the shaft

does it knock a number of time while turning or only once at full lock? if it does it number of times its likely to be the top beaings, get someone to tun the wheel and you look under the bonnetm sometimes when there real bad you can see the movement.

yea main things youl prob have to worry about would be driveline and suspension components if its been serviced regularly and treated well will be ok

ive found the turbos used off the gti-r pulsar to be quite popular, cant remember the model though

shocks can tend to rattle but to do this they would be well buggered lol, just run your hand over you tyres. If its the shocks you should feel that tyres will have small "flat spots"

woops didnt realise how old this was lol

whatver you do do not just go disconnecting a/c hoses the gas is very dangerous The gas is "supposed" to be collected and is illegal to release into the atmosphere, if caught the epa fines are very severe. Main reason i say this though is that if you come into contact with the gas its likely...

it probably would sound like an eight, until one pulls up next to you at a set of lights

will it go over 4000rpm at all? does it happen all the time? does it do it out of gear well?

does it do it in gear and nuetral? most probably the belt and/or pulleys or if just when driving stone stuck in the caliper