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Thanks delcowizzd, That's good enough for me!

Hi friends, I want to test my VY ecotec fuel pressure by crimping the inlet & return hoses to the fuel rail. However I have read somewhere that using pliers like that may permanently partially crush the inside of the hose. Is clamping something to be avoided?

Problem solved after removing the backplate. At manufacture the drilled breather hole had not gone through the wall by about 2mm. Monday morning build?

Today I found that air passed freely through my friend's VT breather nipple & I imagine my VY should be the same. Is there a hole in the gasket or a channel in the aluminium that can be blocked with gasket goo?

My diff is pressurising greatly when hot. I got a snootfull of hot oil when I removed the drain plug. Maybe the breather is blocked? The rubber breather hose is clear but I cannot blow or suck air into the diff via the breather nipple even with the oil level plug removed. Can anyone tell me...

Pixelord, Have you fixed your stalling problem ? Perhaps the stalling & vacuum leak are two different problems. If the wide electrical plug on the DFI unit (the coil pack base) has a dirty or loose connection then the ignition can cut out or just miss at any speed or when idling. It can also...

May be just a bad connection between the ignition key blade and the key head. Remove the 2 screws that hold the blade to the head. Remove the blade & look inside the slot. Around one of the screw holes is a brass? contact face. Gently clean both the key blade and the key head contact...

I just use my angle grinder to grind two opposite faces of the 19mm A/F hexagon sump plug to about 10mm to 12mm A/F (of course it is no longer a hexagon). That gives a massively long face to put your shifter onto. Always works for me. I still have to be careful of course to give it the best...

As Nut Kracker said make sure you crank the engine over for a good 10 seconds to reduce pressure to zero. You will then find it easy to push the plastic fuel line connector toward the fuel filter, squeeze the flats of the plastic connector with your fingers (it's that easy) & pull it off the...

Perhaps this is applicable http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/vt-vx-holden-commodore-1997-2002/232014-vt-running-issue.html

Do yourself a favor & buy yourself a Gregory's workshop manual for about $40. It will answer nearly all the questions you want to ask & give you the confidence to do things yourself. Money well spent.

Hi J, Which crank angle sensor fault code number is thrown up?

Thanks mate

Can someone tell me if VT & VY heads are identical on a V6? I have been offered a pair of recently reconditioned VT heads cheap to keep as spares for when my VY needs them.

Don't forget the 2 relays are not the same. Low speed relay has 5 pins & the high speed relay only has 4.

Just a followup for anybody searching old posts for the same ticking problem that I had. I think my ticking problem was coming from worn valve guides due to being on gas. My 99 VT was converted to gas about 2002. The noise began occasionally about 2008 along with an uneven idle around 2009...

Good work-around

My Vt leaked from where the fuel supply hose was crimped onto the fuel rail. Got another one from the wreckers which only lasted 2 years before I smelled petrol again. Hoses had gone hard & was permanently fixed with a new hose crimped on by Pirtek. Cheaper than a fire.

Hey mate, we are constantly exhorted to search through old posts. You can possibly fix it for free! Remove your horn pad to expose the single (2 wire) connector that joins the two button assemblies to the loom which disappears down the steering column. Clean & slightly squeeze/tighten the...

Wiring disconnected & checked OK. There is also a problem with the instrument warning lights similar to this thread. http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/vt-vx-holden-commodore-1997-2002/185642-97-vt-beeping-lights-start-up.html Unfortunately I can't find any followup post. Checking the error...

Can anybody with an early VT Aclaim tell me if THEY can retrieve error codes by bridging terminals 5 & 6? Or tell me if they can't bring them up. Thanks

The bulletproof 3.8

Yes. When the ignition is switched on he check engine globe comes on steadily. Makes no difference if terminals 5 & 6 are bridged before switching on. Terminal 5 does actually earth OK & terminal 6 wire tests OK for continuity as far as the PCM.

Engine mounts do sag over time. Look for a shiny line on the rear vertical face of the sump where it has been hitting the cross-member flange. More likely to be a suspension rubber though.

My mate's 97 VT Aclaim wagon engine light doesn't blink or display error codes when I bridge his terminals 5 & 6. Works fine on my 99 VT series 2 exec. Does anybody know if the error code display was operational on his model or could it have been disabled?

This may apply to your mirror fault http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/electrical-wiring-questions/141825-faulty-vx-mirror-switch.html

Matt, I have this exact problem on my recently purchased VY11. I gather by the lack of response to your question that there is a thread somewhere else which answers this. My audio tech thought it was due to dirty button contacts sending incorrect voltages to the radio. Possibly due to the dealer...

My VT had the same mirror problem. It was caused by dirty electrical contacts & I fixed it permanently. Sorry to say I can't remember if it was the 4 way switch in the door inner trim panel or the contacts in the mirror itself but I was able to disassemble the offending item. I think the window...

Were you able to fix it mate?

Update... The mechanic says he inserted his thin strip of something between the outer face of the rear quarter glass & the door outer panel & pulled/pushed on the appropriate lock lever to unlock the door. He said that it only took a moment to jiggle & was originally caused by trying to open the...

It's booked in for Monday

Took it back to the mechanic. He was sure the solenoid was OK & that the fault was a sticky lock. He says he can open it with a thin strip of something poked down the side of the window. Hope it's that simple.

Just went out & bought a workshop manual so I know which wire to liven up Definitely worth a try. Here's hoping.

Yesterday the mechanic agreed that force was the way to go. Unfortunately he used too much muscle & broke the snib's wire pushrod away from its lower linkage.

My LHS rear door locking action seems to be frozen. It will not unlock with key in frt lock, with key unlock button or any door unlock snib. I assume it is a mechanical malfunction in the LHS door lock or linkage. Problem is that I can't open the door to remove the trim panel to access the...

michaelh877 & Cheap6 you've nailed the major problem. The arrow on the timing light pickup needed to be pointing away from the RHS spark plugs as the spark does jump from ground to electrode on that side. Nice bit of lateral thinking. My old timing light was more forgiving of direction than...

I'm on dual fuel & the spark miss occurs on both petrol & gas. I can't work out where in the electrical circuit can a fault cause all LHS plugs to spark ok but all the RHS plugs badly. Perhaps someone else has had this experience?

My timing light is showing me that cyls 2,4 & 6 are missing occasionally at idle but badly at higher revs. Cyls 1,3 & 5 are not missing at all. (checked with 2 different timing lights) Two new sets of leads & plugs, two second hand ignition modules & coils have made no difference. In case the...

Thanks chargedvx6. Using timing light as a guide to what my chalk mark on c/shaft pulley is doing. At about 950 rpm the chalk mark is advancing instantaneously by about 12mm (about 7 deg) from its idle position. Max advance is about 20mm from idle posn. Curiously though when held at higher...

I had the same problem & new gas struts fixed it. The boot relocked before the struts lifted it clear of the latch. Google "the strut guys"' $40.50 / pair delivered. Mine arrived 3 working days later. Maybe cheaper elsewhere.