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i changed starter motor today and same thing no different. cleaned the cracked angle sensor, battery terminals and all conections on starter, battery and relays. Woohoo it starts. its alive and runs. 10 times starts like new. problem solved

the starter motor engages but it doesnt spin fast enough like i has got a flat battery but the battery was brand new in dec 2009 and still has 12.9v. What else could it be???????

no tick noise. change the sender,oil filter and oil change tonight. no more low oil light on. cars all good now

no more shudder now i changed the gearbox mounts

low oil light comes on when idling. as soon as i xlr8 it goes out.oil level is full. is my oil pressure sender stuffed?

changed tailshaft with a spare (no different) but notice gear box mounts broken. i have replaced the mounts tonight so i will try it again in the morning. also felt the gears going up and down cruising between 80-100 but when i put the power button on its fine. is my gearbox in need of replacing?

it passed rwc last week. i will get under it tommorrow and check the mounts for movement and check oils in trany and diff, thanks jatsvl your are very helpful

go our vl executive rego yesturday. wooohooo. but when we take off from a standing start on xlr8 hard there is a shutter in the car.(gearbox, tailshaft, diff? )engine does have a slight miss fire, will service next week. i have had the 18" wheels balanced, fitted new slotted disc rotors and pads...

i have the snapon removal tool but it only gets it out of the strut not the lower control arm. i will try heating it with the oxy and then freezing the centre with freeze and release spray. see how that goes

i am changing my ball joint on missus vl. i have removed the lower control arm from the car but can't remove the ball joint from the lower control arm. is there a trick to belting it out? or do i have to put it in a press to remove it?

thanks for the info guys. i am going to look around for another box because i miss driving it already.

i back out the inlaws driveway this morning, put it into drive and heard a bang. the car didn't move, as i xlr8ed the gearbox has major slip like its taking off in second and slowly starts to move. got up to 80km/hr and still has not changed gear. pulled into my driveway a couple of streats...

do you still have the bonnet and 2 rear doors? are they straight? how much?

lower it and sports exhurst

i will get the ecu and some other good bits off the young guy around the corner from me. he smashed his vr and i got the extractors and full 2 1/2" system off it for $100. i starting to think about leaving the error code there as the car is going well.

you could remove the rubber stripes off the roof and color code the door handles

the front will always sit a bit higher than the to give clearence for turning. if you tuck the front tyre they may hit the gaurd when turning. as for getting it lower i only thing i can think of is airbag it.

it just has a rough idle. drives well and 220k to half a tank of fuel

i did the crank angle when i put the motor together and the cam angle sensor when i had the motor in the car and the code came up.

if you bent the radiator surport you may get it writen off as a repairable writeoff but buy it back and fix it. well worth doing

no signal to cam angle sensor. on vr series 2 v6? check volts to cam angle sensor at plug. all good going by gregory manual. replaced cam angle sensor. all good. replaced dfi and coil pack. all good. replaced leads and plugs. motor still works the same. removed engine fuse as manual says to...

would a dfi module from another model car fit my vr series 2? eg vn to vx?

mines fine with standard panhard rod aswell but i have the superlow heavyduty springs

had a look at the sensor and the plug is all broken and loose. cabletied it up until i can get a new 1 from holden. supercheap and repco dont sell them

my old motor had 370K on it but the motor im using now only has 210K so i wound back the speedo to suit the motor

it slipped again today and i lost speedo when it happened then come good again. does this mean it could just be my speed sensor and not a f#@*ked gearbox?

could be blockage in the fuel system. change the fuel filter to. and check your injectors

my whole car only owes me a third of that. i'm going to get a second hand one and put that in and see how it goes.

sent you a pm mate.

i may have to just drive a bit slower instead of giving it a boot full just ease on the petal.

had an oil and filtter change last month.

i think it's around $100 and any supercheap, repco etc that sell bateries will have one

i had same problom in my vx and turned out to be bottom 4 cores of the radiator being blocked with rust and dirt but if you have hed a new rad fitted the it should be ok. try and flush the heater core and the rest of the sistem before bypassing it and see how te goes.

i did the same in my vx but still need spring compressor to get the original springs out but the new lowered springs fell into place with a gap untill i lowered the body onto the axles.:)

sounds like you got the wrong bat in it. the correct batery has the bits at the bottom for the mount. it should be a centery 57 or equiverlent.

how much did you pay for it? when i put it into gear like drive or reverse it does take a coupe of seconds to in gage. but no other problems changing betweeen gears.

i went around the corner today and then gave it a boot full. it droped back a gear, started to take off then slipped into neutral and reved to 5grand before going back into gear.it all happened with in a couple of seconds. what do you think is the problem? i checked the auto fluid when i got...

have you checked for error codes?

it was a quick fix. lite sand primer then paint, but will be done properly when i get some straight pannels as the door do have ripples in them.

posibly was a hazardious vechicle for a hide load truck. etc. and needed this extra fuses for extra hazard lights.