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I mean rotor/drum hub center . The wheel hub should be about 2-3mm bigger.

Anyone know the hub center size on 4 cyl commodores ? The dba website is listing them at 69 mm , is this correct ? If anyone has a 4cyl that commodore that they can get measurements from that would be great, because reading up about them i am getting conflicting sizes (61 and 69 mm).

Double the clutch? The only time i did that was when i learnt to drive a truck . No need for it in almost all cars.

What wheels did you have on the car before trying to fit them ? If they weren't stockies , could you take a photo of the hub centers/disc rotors?.

There is about 4 different types i think on 253s and 308s. Early motors had the breather on the timing cover, then the breather/filler moved to the rocker cover. Then the two with pvc type breathers with the fillers on opposite sides.

I feel sorry for the p platers ,from what i,ve heard about nt ,the faster you can get out of there the better.

Have you both read the original post ?

Do you mean defender offline or defender? The pc that i had the problem with had microsoft security essentials (same as windows defender?) and it didn't work , but defender offline did.

Maybe try windows defender offline? I used it to remove a rogue program and it work for that. What is Windows Defender Offline?

It,s a little bit rough.

I forget where all the hoses go, but by the position of that hose on the right that is blocked , it might be a vent for the fuel bowl. Maybe someone else on here knows and can answer? It needs to be unblocked if it is.

Sounds more like a timing issue .Have you done anything to the timing before it started running rough ?. If you have Recheck the firing order and check if the dizzy isn't 180 out. Also the carby needs a 12v feed when the ignition is on, to control the anti dieseling/idle solenoid , If you don't...

Don't do a burnout (drive around the water),or try to go too fast on the first couple of runs and concentrate on getting the car staged right. The track is probably going to be a little bit slippery for the first couple of cars down.Get there early if you can to get more runs , plus if you get...

That chart is a little bit Wrong/misleading. While changing the jets shouldn't change the idle mixtures, the idle system is fed by the the main jets. So if you had blocked main jets the idle system wouldn't work.

It depends on what 450 it is ,most are 4360 holleys i think.

If i remember right, standard holley jets wont fit a 450.

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Check if the accelerator pump is working properly.Take the air cleaner off and then look down carby while pumping the accelerator, you should see fuel squirting out. Also check that all the vacuum hoses are still connected.

Twin 32/36,s = double the fuel surge, chuck them in the bin where they belong.

Most people say that cheap standard brake pads are crap. Sure they are crap if you drive the car hard and need to brake hard more than once , But if you drive normally and only brake hard in a emergency, then they are usually fine.I would think in some cases performance pads could be worse .

Red ones go faster . I think it might be a black motor.

There not impact sockets ,there called bolt grip.

Think you need to check your settings ,all i see is this.

Probably is why there is a fuel smell ,would make the engine run rich.

When you tested the compression ,did you do a wet test ? Do a wet compression test on number 7 if you haven't , before taking anything apart.

I never have tried it but i think you can put a 4hdd in a vs.The 4hdd doesn't need to have the second solenoid to work ,all i think you need to do is , make the vs computer think that the solenoid is still there and working. Using a 5/6/7hdd wiring and solenoid in a 4hdd should work?

It could be a lot of things but ,make sure your working on the right layer and also that you haven't selected anything else or selected it inverted. To be quicker , in the Tutorial where it says use the erase tool , just press backspace.

vb-vk does have the same wheel bearing as the hq ,but its getting the caliper to line up with the disc. If you use a kit for a hq , it will make the back of the disc sit further away from the caliper mount. Also the p76 and the hq rotor is about 276mm in diameter and 25.5mm thick, so you would...

Why are you trying to fit them? ,Is it to narrow the track? I tried to find a kit when i had my VK, and couldn't. I also tried HQ rotors ,they narrowed the track by about 10mm per side, but also put the disc about 5mm further away from the caliper mount.They might fit with a little more work.

Try to bolt the VS calipers onto the VH rotors to check the clearances, I think the calipers might fit with wheel spacers. Use washers to see how far the wheel needs to be spaced.

Don't know if its the same but, I tried fitting a old vn 14" wheel on vr today when changing wheels , the wheel hits on the front ,top corners on alloy part of the caliper.

Get your 14's converted to 15's . Stock VS brakes aren't the best for a conversion ,probably a waste of time.

+1 on it being the carby, or maybe a vacuum leak .But it does sound like you might have wired the ignition wrong. The original wiring would of had two wires that go to the coil, one a resistance wire, from when the ignition is on and the other(12v) from when the starter motor is cranked.

Do you have the motivation to do a project like that?.You have the car and engine , grab a engine hoist and see how it fits. On another forum someone fitted a cleveland into a lh/lx torana and toranas have smaller engine bays.If i remember right clevelands have a right hand starter motor ,so you...

gu5 and the 3.45 use the same tail shaft yokes. It all depends on what motor/gearbox combo you have. If you have a 202 trimatic/aussie 4speed , use the tail shaft out of a late vk that came with a gu5.

The speedo or tacho might be out,have you got a Automotive Multimeter and some sort of gps to check?. Also what code for the engine is on the vin?, if it was a 6 check if the tacho has been switched.