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The thread of the adjuster isn't greased at the factory, or if it is, they don't put much on. If yours is stuck you need to take the handbrake shoe off, take the adjuster out and grease the thread.

This is because the metal spring strap has broken off it.

Good work wamboin, I didn't know about the second clock spring. I stand corrected.

These are one of those pain in the ass sensors that you don't get symptoms from. Normally, the ECU expects to hear slight knocking (you won't hear it), which it uses to adjust the timing - ie. it advances until it knocks, then retards one step at a time until it no longer hears it, then...

spot on, this is a vey common mistake. look into the socket, if it has one terminal inside it needs a single terminal bulb, and vice versa.

no no no no. please don't do that. You're likely to zap the SRS module. Does the airbag warning light illuminate for 2-3 secs when you start the car? Does the horn work? If both of these happen, your clockspring is fine.

VT centre bore is 69.5mm, VE is 66.5mm diameter. VT use 12x1.5 studs, VE use 14x1.5 studs. VT use 21mm nuts, VE use 22mm nuts. VT wheel torque is 100-125nm, VE is 170nm. Offset is the same for both base models. PCD same for both models 5x120 It's not a modification that I'd recommend.

Put a thermometer into the open radiator and watch the temperature as it warms up. You need to know actual temp, not gauge temp.

My VX did exactly the same thing - gauge moved quickly to H and displayed HOT on the dash with the warning beep. A handfull of other lights turned on at the same time (low trac etc), then after about 3 seconds the gauge dropped back to normal temp as quickly as if i'd turned the key off. The...

Rubbish. A multimeter of the correct type is perfectly safe to use on an SRS circuit.

I'd be testing your thermostat first. Take it out and boil it, and see what temp it starts to open (if it's not already stuck open). It sounds like your temp guage is moving too much. A normally operating system will cause very little needle movement at high speed, this is the job of the...

Made by Bridgestone without the brand name. Cheaper as they don't have to pay royalties to Japan for using the Bridgestone logo. Australian designed and made (until about 6 months ago).

sure it's the bearings? feel for freeplay to be sure. could also be loose or worn belt, worn pulley, or it could actually be another pulley causing the noise. It can be tricky to pinpoint the noise. I've been fooled plenty of times!

oh, and 44 is indicating a lean burn condition (not rich), or low voltage (0 to 400mV) at the O2 sensor's corresponding ECU pin.

That's possible, hadn't thought of that. This code is pre-OBDII, so isn't internationally recognised. Having said that, you would think that Holden would have used the same software for their exports as they did for their domestic stuff.

An ECU for a NZ commodore must have been a different part number (to Aus cars), and had the O2 sensing capability switched off. Your rich code isn't possible, because you don't have O2 sensors to signal a rich condition. Is the ECU standard? Maybe an Aus style ECU has been fitted. The only...

ummm, that would be move backward. Also, unless you want to be replacing worn chassis parts in 10 years (expensive), use soft rubber. Nolathane is so hard it wears away the metal around it (not to mention uncomfotable ride).

Ahhh, the good old 'swap stuff until it's fixed' diagnosis method. Good to see you are keeping the wrecking trade in business - buying three times as many parts as needed, then needing to go to the mechanic in the end anyway. If holden can't fix it quickly, it's probably a wiring fault -...

Never repair airbag wiring. It isn't designed to be repaired, and unless you want your head to land in the back seat (separate to your body), don't bring anything near the airbag wiring that could induce current or voltage, that includes static electricity.

Just as Bosch said, you need a resistor of about 2ohms resistance to fool the SRS module. The wiring harness has shorting pins in the connector, so the resistor will be near impossible to install without cutting the wires, which contravenes about every repair standard to do with SRS systems...

holy crap, 90 psi is a bit high! I'm surprised your hoses haven't blown off or leaking at every join! Don't have specs with me, but I would have thought 40-50psi would be normal. 350kPa = approx 50psi 410kPa = approx 59psi

not sure. like I said, 16 guage wire (American Wire Guage, if this is what you mean) is rated at 7.5A. This is not suitable or safe for a fuse any bigger than 7.5A. you risk causing fire if not followed.

bigger wire, bigger fuse.

Depends. what was the code?

Nope. Current draw is defined by the load (horn) not by the wire. My info tells me that 16 guage wire is rated to 7.5A maximum, with same size fuse. 30A rated wire = 10 guage, or 5.5mm sq.

Definitely could be onto something. If you shave the cylinder head, you lessen the distance between the valve gear and the block (cam), so all other connecting components will not fit the same (lifters, rods, rockers etc will appear to be too long). However, in saying that, the hydraulic...

Hmmm...without seeing the car's condition and driving/service history etc, it's hard to diagnose. It could be either, but I'd probably sway towards wiring. PCS or wiring fault? Either way it could be a difficult job without the right tools or know-how. Replacing the PCS is relatively cheap...

You need to find out the rated current flow (Amps), or power usage (Watts) of the horn. This should be in the data sheet or instuctions with the horn. This should tell you the fuse requirement. Remember, the fuse is only there to protect the wiring, so if your smallest wire in the circuit is...

This is true, and it has what's called a rolling code. Every time the remote is used, it sends the next code on the pre-programmed list of numbers. The BCM works off the same list. When a new remote is programmed to the car, this code list is one of the things that's synchronised with the BCM...

Rocket, Please tell me exactly what Holden can 'reprogram' back into your PCM with Tech2 after a battery disconnect?

Broken or short in wiring between PCM and internal trans wiring harness. Check trans wiringharness red wire and blue/grey wire for rubbing through. If no luck, a sparky will find this fairly quickly.

I think you'll find that there's a fault with the sensor or wiring. As long as it's plugged into the wiring harness, the IAT (intake air temperature) sensor will still work, even if it's not pushed inside the intake system. it just won't read accurately as it's not sensing the intake air...

I can't be certain, but it should - programming is the same (although I admit I've never actually tried it with SRS codes).

I don't follow. What fuel related value does this calibrate? Tank size? Sender part number? Fuel delivery map?

This is normal DTC programming for nearly every car in the world with On-Board-Diagnostics. Standard DTC programming says 'If fault does not occur for (*insert number of) engine start cycles, delete current/history code' *This number varies for all DTCs - anywhere from 10 to 255.

umm... srs module isn't abs module

Hav you got a scope? If so, scope the knock sensor under operating conditions and you'll see when the sensor sees the problem. I'm surprised though, most ECUs have a pretty good filter to skim only real engine knock from a dirty signal. Are you getting RF interference from anything else? Bad...

I'd like to buy this patent off you. I'll pay whatever price you want, if the design does what you say it will. I'll give you my company in exchange for your patent.

"In Australia, the preferred marking is "Aust. Pat. App. No. yyyynnnnnn" where "yyyy" is the four-digit year of the application and "nnnnnn" is the six-digit number allocated by the Australian Patent Office. There are penalties for making a false indication of the existence of patent rights...

QuickVRII95, Dude, you should really keep quiet. The more you say, the more you look like a fool. You clearly know very little about cars/engines, which in itself is fine. A lot of people come here to learn. But, for your own sake, look and learn for a little while before you make outrageous...