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Auto transmission TPS: contains two sets of contacts, one set monitors idle position and the other set monitors full throttle. Manual transmission TPS: contains only one set of contacts, to monitor idle position -Mick

It's from the hydraulic lifters, the VL engine is getting on and as a result this tapping sound is just from worn lifters. It's not a major problem as long as the sound is not extremely loud and constant. You can buy a lifter quietening additive to add to the engine oil that will coat the...

ucwepn is right, try contacting Holden or HSV directly to get the parts info you require. I usually find parts guides from this era were very scant with info pertaining to specially designed "limited edition" engines / parts etc. Just for those interested in this thread I thought it...

I believe you are looking at a 5.0L V8 VL Group A SS "Walkinshaw". (PFI) Holden Commodore (12/1987, only 500 built) engine, (or a slightly modified version of it), judging by the dates involved and the ECM information supplied. Here's a link to info on the net about the ECM you supplied at...

The explanation I gave above came from the original official GMH repair manuals. 4 speed with the 4th gear being "overdrive". Constant driving with the Power function enabled will have no other adverse reaction other than horrible fuel consumption. But who would want to drive around in power...

Yes it is a 4 speed gearbox. Consisting of 4 forward speed gears with the fourth gear being "overdrive". With respects to the shifting patterns changing under "power" mode, yes this does happen (even if it is slight). When power mode is selected the speed/revs that the gearbox changes at is...

In VL's with cruise control the brake switch fitted to the brake pedal also included a cruise disengage switch so if the brake is pressed the system disengages. I believe that this switch on the brake pedal works together with the Vacuum Release Valve mentioned in the previous posts, in so far...

If you are talking about the vacuum hose that goes from the servo into the firewall, yes that plugs into a vacuum release switch, which when activated will release the pull on the throttle and thus deactvate the cruise or reduce the speed. -Mick

If you mean the cruise control module it will be a black box located on the drivers side, under the dash, to the right of the steering column and to the left of the radio. If its the switch module it is another smaller black box situated behind the instrument cluster. -Mick

The volt metre should be working....If not that gauge is stuffed...

The issue is the float style sender in the fuel tank. if you brake hard it goes up, if you accelerate hard it goes down. But if the gauge and sender are working well it shouldn't move too far and should level out quite quickly and overall be very accurate. I think it has to do with the sender...

Much of a muchness...For option one you need a spare gauge, and to dismantle the cluster, which is not very hard. For option two you will need to buy a 10V 1A Regulator from an electronics store and solder it onto the inside of the board that backs the cluster. If you have the gauge this would...

Only two possible problems: 1) The gauge itself is RS, OR 2) The little black voltage regulator on the circuit board at the back of the cluster needs replacing - Mick

As said, all works but the oil pressure gauge. You will need an oil pressure sender for the block and to change the wire in pin 14 (the blue one) to pin 2 on the black plug that goes into the back of the cluster and she'll work a treat...

Come OFF that is...

Yes, the needle has to come to get to the screws behind the face plate. Be careful not to break it though.

I'll take the oil pressure sender and the Instrument Cluster Wiring Harness if available. What would the damage be??

I'm looking for the wiring that is used for the "Reverse" and "Low Coolant Level" warning lights on the Series 2 Cluster. It does not appear in the Original Holden VL Workshop Manuals.

I've got the original Holden VL Workshop manuals but they do not include the Series 2 modifications / updates. I was wondering if anyone has an idea if there was a supplement manual released OR does anyone know where I could obtain the updated wiring diagram for this model. -Mick

It is most likely the connection to the bulb from to socket you are plugging it in to. I had to add some more solder to the contact on the socket to improve it. But as always, if the PWR button is canceling OD and you are sure it is working, just engage it and use a volt meter to test the...

I have attached a file with a picture that has the info you need. It come courtesy of the official GMH VL Service Manual. The pic shows the torque converter clutch solenoid on the left-hand side towards the front of the transmission. Hope this helps. Mick

It's the clutch inside the torque converter that is stuffed. Unplug the torque converter clutch soleniod on the transmission and the shudder will stop.

Have a look at the connection to the coil. I had a similar issue and it turned out to be a loose connection to the coil. You are right about the issues with poor earthing though, one big problem with the VL.

G'day Fellas, Just giving the old girl a new spray and was wondering if anyone knew where, or if, I could obtain the plastic trims which are stuck to the doors and front quarters. - Mick

As a rule don't go to "suss" petrol stations!!!

I'm spraying my car so i've removed the front and rear windscreens. My question is, where do you buy replacement rubber seals for the screens?? Also if anyone has purchased them before how much did they set you back?? -Mick

Where are these gimps you speak of??

I second that Mike!! -Mick

Got a problem with the VP Immobilizer in that when the immobilizer is supposed to be working it isn't. I mean that the red light in the dash is flickering but without having to disarm it I can just start the car. Is there anything I can look at?? Could it just be some dirty contacts?? -Mick

Athough it sounds like your torque converter may be on it's way out. As long as it is not terminal at the moment keep it going. I'll check the book as to other likely problems and get back to you. -Mick

Sorry to hear about that mate, but maybe it was for the best.

If you think it is an intermittent ECU problem and you don't have another one you can borrow just take the positive lead off the battery for five or so minutes (when the problem is occuring). The ECU should then reset itself (provided it hasn't died all together), then see if your diagnostic...

Thank fellas the problem seems to be fixed, fingers crossed!!! I had to fix the connector to the coil again as the previous job was shifty, also cleaned and fixed the connections to the battery and all the electrical connectors. -Mick

Sydney here, #1 under the australian sun!! -Mick

NSW: Cockroaches, Blues VIC: Cabbage Farmers, Cabbage Patchers, Mexicans (to NSW and QLDers) QLD: Banana Benders, Cane Toads SA: Crow Eaters WA: Sand Gropers TAS: Hillbillies ACT: Yogi Bears (because their licence plates all start with "Y") NT: Top Enders for Darwin, Dust Eaters for...

Taking it easy, doing sweet FA.

vBulletin looks more professional

Rugby Union, Cricket, Shooting/Hunting with my .243, Drinking, Networking, Programming. -Mick

23 / M / Sydney

Are you talking about the Overdrive Cancel solenoid? Or the Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid? I can tell you that if the solenoid itself is clicking then it is not likely to be the problem. Is there any other problem besides the difference in RPM? -Mick