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immobiliser maybe...

Na key and ignition barrel are brand new. Reading on the tabs are good too.

Yeah will do. My mate even has a G-Scanner and has hooked it up many times for various reasons but never found any error codes relating to that. I did some reading up, some suggest a vacuum leak, O2 sensor and everything else you mentioned. My spark plugs and leads aren't very old but I don't...

I also changed the coil pack.

When I fix one thing, another goes... So this time, the first time this happened I was driving on the on ramp on the freeway and I felt a pretty hard jolt. The car kept going so I thought nothing of it. About 5 minutes down the road at 110k's the engine just shut off completely. First the...

I should mention that I did make sure the car I took the module out of DID have traction control. I checked.

Sorry it took me over a year to get back to you guys. Life...y'know...lol. So today I FINALLY decided to give the ABS module a go. BINGO! It fixed everything and also fixed my air conditioning at the same time. It took me a year and 4 months and about $40 to do a 20 minute job :doh: Only one...

Yeah sorry, can't spot any red tab. Maybe it snapped off. I'll just wait for the expert to come round. I'll tell him what you both suggested. Cheers.

Yeah next time the brother in law comes over i'll get him to bring his multimeter. He's a mechanic so he'll be able to suss out if it's a power issue.

I had the alternator checked not that long ago, but I'll get the brother in law to check it out again. Yeah I went out to have a look but I'm going to take a guess and say the connector is underneath the module? For some reason I can't seem to lift it even when I unscrew the two nuts on the...

Alright I'll see if i can give that a go.

Alright so this has been happening for a while now. At first it was intermittent, but now it's always. When I start the car the engine light, oil light, traction control light, airbag light and abs lights all come on as well as the fans, and the temp needle doesn't move. This all happened in one...

I put the new switch in and that fixed my key issue. Too easy. Thanks guys! But al my warnings are still there :( I guess a new thread will be started for that.

Cheers, I'll start there and see how it goes. Thanks for the help!

is this it? http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com.au/viewitem?itemId=400313438590

Ah that makes sense. Is it hard to do? And does that have any affect on all those sensors?

OK so I started my car one day and felt a "snap" come through the key. I figured it was the spring in the igniton barrel because ever since then whenever I start my car I have to manually turn the key back to the "II" position as it won't spring back on its own. Also since that happened...

Ye I've been to 3 bolt specialists and they all said that it's impossible these days to get a left hand threaded bolt. But i'll check out your website to see what's there. The drive side would pretty much be the same on supercharged models. The only other thing I thought of would be to retap...

oh yeah...i did see them on ebay. pretty cheap. you think they work?

mmm I can tap it, done it a few times, i just can't find anywhere that sells left hand bolts, and the bearing has heaps of extra space so that won't be an issue. As for the whole assembly, as it's an uncommon item, Holden is the only seller for $285 and I really don't want to spend that much on...

But I've taken the supercharger belt off anyway coz I can't tighten the idler pulley

Not quite sure what you mean. But na, the tensioner is the smooth pulley and is fine, it's the idler which is definitely left hand. Yeah I'm trying to avoid replacing the whole assembly. But it's not on the assembly on the drive side, it's on the supercharger side, or passenger side, and I...

Supercharged VT. Changing the idler pulley on the supercharger belt. Easy enough. However the last person to do this stripped the thread. I can easily retap it but the thread is left handed for reasons to prevent loosening while the pulley is spinning. I've searched everywhere for left hand...

how did mine work then? coz i have a series 1 vt and the VX diff was in mine for a short while

cheers guys :beer chug:

Sorry I don't know too much about this. I have a spare standard VX diff for sale and a potential buyer. The buyer has a VS. Is it compatible? Cheers

ye mine were real bad once. When i had them replaced, the driver's side was melted to the frame. that was from the previous owner lol

try the supercharger. when the coupler inside the supercharger wears out it rattles exactly like that. One way of telling, pull the belt off and see if there's any free play with the pulley before it grabs and turns nice and smooth. it will feel very loose at first.

I had a broken check strap once. well...the mount welded to the door was coming apart. Just went to the panel beaters, paid $330, refabricated the mount, resprayed the whole part of the body that was affected, and put a brand new check strap. problem solved.

it'll have 4 hoses coming out of it. 2 of them go into the cabin. But ye the radiator cap is a good place to start. As for the stop leak, I would highly recommend against it. That **** will only make things worse. Ultra tune put that **** in mine to seal a leak in my heater core, it ended up...

BUT, pinging (detonating) is very discrete and apparently not many people can hear it. But it sounds like throwing gravel at your bonnet, just really quietly lol. And obviously can be disastrous lol. I had that, and was confirmed when I had my engine rebuilt. But that was coz my pistons rings...

last time i heard of glowing exhaust is was because of a blockage in the cats...i'm sure there are other ways, like the ones already mentioned, but i'm not an expert on that one

It won't fit ANY head unit. It will be specific to a brand. And none of the steering controls ever worked on my mate's aftermarket head unit

Na that's a huge help mate! Cheers!

There are a few ways do bleed a supercharged V6. One way is to leave the cap open and keep adding water for a while, while water keeps spitting out, or there's the proper way. 3 bleed valves. One on the block just under the supercharger pulley, second on the thermostat which is almost behind...

Could be your diff. Doesn't mean there's anything wrong with it. When it warms up you might hear a slight winding noise when lightly holding the accelerator to maintain a certain speed on a straight. Won't make noises when accelerating or braking.....hang on...you just said you got new...

So, I know there are a few posts on this, but I didn't see one asking this question. Maybe I didn't look good enough lol. Here goes...keep in mind I have a VT (obviously) Forget the explanations of what it does, how to get it, what to do with it and all that, my question is, do I have to take...

20s will fit. I have 20s on ssl and 4 point camber kit. Doing the diff cradle will do wonders if your car is lowered. So go the 20s.

haha ye. i've already got an s-pack...all i want are the fog lights. so i got a bumper that had fog light spaces that happened to be a manta bumper. so i'm trying to decide if i should keep my s-pack lip on it, or the manta lip...

hahaha! Seems responses are pretty positive for the manta lip...got something to think about now. Cheers for the input