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And the clevis is about 10mm wider on VF.

I can only tell you that all I had to do when fitting a second hand genuine trailer loom to my VF1 Calais was plug it in, and it worked straight up. I'd be checking connectors and fuses.

Yep, and the experience of people that are in the middle of it is valuable, and is typically going to be the best advice we can get. It's really hard for a mechanic to 'science' this though. They won't be able to control for all variables to really determine a root cause. They'll often mainly...

The oil change frequency and synthetic vs non-synthetic debate seems to be a religious war that's gone on forever, full of anecdotes and not much objective evidence. I have a theory though based on this (detergent section): https://penriteoil.com.au/knowledge-centre/Oil Composition and...

I have a VX2 LS1 Calais and a VF1 L77 Calais. Comparing the two: The NVH of the VF is in a different league. The 6 speed auto felt to me like it was changing gears all the time initially but better after a tune and the manual override and much smarter shifting calibration makes hills runs way...

Noting that ride height for FE1, FE2 and FE3 on a VF is all the same, according to the owner's manual.

My purpose for posting was to perhaps help out someone else who has been having the same problem. Not that I actually mentioned anything about an ambient sensor. There is a temp sensor in the ducting that goes to the outer vent. When cold, I had super hot air from the left centre vent and cool...

No, it's in the ducts, just like I said.

I discovered this thread trying to solve the same problem... I think the temp sensors are in the ducts that carry the air to the side ducts. It seems my issue is solved by ensuring the side front vents are open. With them closed I don't actually think the system knows how hot the air in the...

Can anyone comment on decent LEDs in the reverse lights? For my driving I find the standard VF1 lights fine except the reverse lights; they are hopeless compared to our Territory and even my VX Calais.

So a bit more of the Penrite LSD additive has made this diff quiet as the open that came out. Doesn't solve the fragility of the clutches, but it's quiet for now.

Yeah I'd agree, assuming new plates are available.

Well that's not promising. Wonder if a dodgy short term fix might be to shim up the plates to set the spider gear mesh back about right as the plates wear.

It was always a risk and a punt chucking second hand parts in. I installed it myself and I don't mind working on cars so there's not a sunk cost there really. You win some, you lose some. But before I assume the diff is junk it's worth asking the questions, so I appreciate the advice here. I've...

Yeah I'm aware of the clutch wear issues on these, that's why I was keen to inspect the teeth before bothering to install it. I can't imagine the condition of the clutches could be determined without full disassembly, and by that point it may as well be rebuilt anyway?

Sorry, should have added more details. Stock complete diff assembly from a wrecker, untouched by me other than a quick inspection to check no smashed teeth. Didn't even lift out the centre from the housing on inspection.

Had trouble finding an existing thread on this, hopefully it's not my search skills failing me. I've put a LSD in my VF Calais. Had the back off it before install, everything looked good on a quick, fairly clueless inspection (all the gears looked good, no chips or wear, lash appeared to be in...

Appreciate the comments, I'll deal with the rest of the exhaust later, but in the meantime I was more concerned about the real difference in noise through a given system with stock headers + cats vs extractors and big cats. The tuner's comments were specifically about noise. His comments were...

Hi all. I'd planned to fit long tube 4>1 extractors and cats like the REX items onto my stock cat back on my L77. I've got the S2 bimodal mufflers with a home made controller that I'd assumed would keep noise under control fairly well even with extractors and big cats with the valves closed...

Got a pull-up resistor on the switch pin?

Ok, thanks. The current situation is clear coat failure on bonnet and RHF guard. Investigating options to tidy it up, not looking to have a perfect car.

Hi all. Anyone able to tell me how close are these two silvers used in the VEs? If I put a 636R bonnet on a 348N, would it pass the car park test, be obviously a different colour? Thanks.

It's certainly not loud on aftermarket levels with the valves open. Not nearly as loud as my X-Force cat-back VX, for example. But it still drones and is noisy and doesn't actually sound very good at low loads commuting in my opinion. And the VF is such a nice quiet comfortable place to be to...

Be happy to share, just need to get around writing it up properly I suppose. The short of it is just as stooge describes. You just need: -generic ebay ELM327 bluetooth OBDII device -HC-05 bluetooth module (HC-05 because that's able to function as a bluetooth host or whatever it's called)...

I've got an ESP32 based controller working now that communicates with a bluetooth OBDII adaptor to open the exhaust valves for 4 seconds whenever more than 50% throttle is used. Works well. I've also used a small OLED display to show a few other values read from the OBDII adaptor, such as oil...

Well, I didn't even remember replying to this, then realised it's a 9 year old post... The handbrake shoe is just a big C-shaped drum shoe. Google up some images "banksia handbrake shoe". I think the shoe just doesn't centre properly and so slightly rubs on one side of the drum. Hence the kit...

Nano does the same thing, and the motors on both the mufflers behave the same way. I think I need to start with the same components you've used and go from there. EDIT- got it working. Turns out bad cables and voltage drop isn't good.

Reviving this old thread to thank stooge and John Revill for sharing the work they've put into this. I've used stooge's code on a uno with one of these to drive the PWM input. It kind of works. The valve tries to shut but seems like it doesn't have enough power so it's noisy, gets almost shut...

When the voltage read from the oil pressure sensor isn't plausible (ie the sensor is broken), the ECU ignores the reading and turns on the CEL, rather than the oil pressure light.

If he's got on the phone to Holden and priced up genuine parts I can see how the mechanic came up with a quote like that. Anything for the LS1 seems cheap aftermarket but outrageous from Holden. Here's some of the Holden prices I was quoted when I did my lifters in 2012. I don't imagine they got...

That's quite interesting, Jxw. I don't think there's anything I can do with that information, but it's interesting nonetheless! :)

I know the consensus is that the battery doesn't get charged from the contacts but it seems opposite to my experiences. My wife's key to my VX rarely gets used, maybe once a month. The remote buttons stop working. Have to use the key in the door. After a 10 minute drive, the buttons work again...

It's near the starter. From the Holden service manual:

No power assistance, or reduced power assistance? The Calais has the speed sensitive steering which varies the amount of power assistance with speed, so it's light in the car park but still has some feel on the highway. It's controlled by a solenoid on the rack. It could be faulty.

I guess broken or damaged wiring could cause all sorts of issues. Might be worth fixing anyway. But from memory, the O2 sensors are powered direct from the ECU so, assuming wiring between the ECU and O2 sensors is ok, if you had power supply problems I'd expect to be seeing bigger problems than...

Black_Bug, in your case, if you're only getting a code for just one of the O2 sensors, I'd be surprised if you've poisoned them. Your problem is intermittent, right? From my browsing through my data logs, unless it's misbehaving at that exact time that you're looking, I wouldn't expect the fuel...

You're getting a code for O2 sensor, but you're not looking there first? Check the plugs on the O2 sensors. After I replaced my O2 sensors I had it occasionally run like a dog at an idle, like it'd dropped a cylinder, and then at low throttle openings it'd surge a bit or just feel dull. Watching...

I think you might be very confused on how an automatic gearbox works, and perhaps also physics, billythakid. :)

I'd expect it is best practise to fit a new one. If I paid a workshop to change my oil and the plug leaked after I'd be upset so it makes sense that they'd want to put a new one on each time. We're just saying our experience says you'll get away without doing it. On the other hand, if you can...

As above. Oil changes every 5k km for the last 100k km, still using the washer the car came with. Seeped just a little before last change, small smear of gasket goo on the rubber surface fixed that. Probably is finally time for new one now.