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Well the ls1 in front of you won't be able to hear how " tough " it sounds anyway... As far as clutches go I have had 2 z-grips now and no complaints here, for the money they are one of the better clutches out there. As far as after sales service goes I have had no problems with tex. I sent...

There is a few 1/8 th mile tracks here in SA, its not a 1/4 but its better than nothing and everything happens in the 1st half of the track anyway the 2nd half you just steer the car.

I would go head and cam package myself too. Sure FI can be had for under 10g but I wouldn't trust it. A cam only car you can flog all day long and it won't break it but if you go down the FI road on the cheap it will end in tears....

yep 350 rwkw is def possible with a cammed LS3. I have seen a cammed LS3 in a ve go 11.0 on the quarter so in a lighter vt - vz should be capable of a 10 sec pass with the right setup. It is not cheap tho but you can save a lot by doing the work yourself and researching before you buy any parts...

Um not quite true a cam is much much better bang for buck than heads on an LS1 or any later series of LS engines..

The 12000n quoted is " motive force " at the wheels on the dyno. Not sure how you convert it back too engine torque. The idea is that the dyno calculates the motive force at the wheels so it is the same regardless of gear ratios, this means that you can directly compare the torque of 2 different...

I think it is from vx onwards that have the LS6 manifold? As far as mods go work out what you want too do to the car and mod it too suit otherwise you may end up buying/fitting parts you don't need and you will have too do it again.

Have seen the stock units rev to 9k with a big cam, only reason to change em is if you want to go for a solid cam.

You probably would see a gain, but I wouldn't bother unless you get them real cheap, I would be looking at other options first ie cam,clutch/stall converter, and diff gears.

I agree with Soop, I would start with the cam first and then down the track if you want a little more you can do the heads. ATM you will see a bigger gain doing a cam than doing the heads now. Another option would be too save some coin and go for a 6L or 6.2L conversion.

All LS series 6L engines have a 4" bore that's how they get the extra cubes over a 5.7. FYI holden offered 2 6L in the vz which were the L76 and LS2 for the HSV's. And yes Macca I was wrong the Ls2 heads will bolt up to an Ls1 it is the later model L98/LS3 heads which will not.

Nope they wont fit. The 6L heads need a 4" bore while and the LS1 has a 3.9" bore and also the shape of the inlet ports will be different depending on what model 6L it is.

I suppose everyone is different I just don't see the point in putting in cams that small.

The plastic fitting towards the end of the fuel rail left hand side of the pic

Exactly, so if you decide to put a cam in later on you don't have to fork out for new extractors.

Should do I have fit 265's on the back of mine, had the guards rolled tho.

If the T/B has been modded you would be able to tell by looking at it. Who knows maybe it does but certainly not the ones I have seen, for it to be open 100% the blade should be perfectly horizontal when looking at it from the from front. Yep shave the stop back and a few other other things...

Well thats unusual unless it has been modded all the ones i have seen dont open 100%. I have modded my fair share of stock LS1 T/B's over the years. It's not much in it but its not 100% open

They don't if you take off the maff pipe and look inside at the throttle blade when you open it, it will only open too around 90% where the aftermarket T/B's will go too 100% ie the blade will be horizontal. I think the tps should still read 100% tho which means the throttle cable will need...

twin 2.5 if staying stock engine wise or if not twin 3" Have a look here they do good work Sureflo Exhaust: Top Quality Custom Performance Exhaust Systems and LS1 Tuning

1 3/4 4>1 even on a stocky don't use anything less. For a stock car twin 2.5" with or without cats for modded cars twin 3" with high flo cats, on a stocky you can get the stock cats opened up too 2.5" but they suck power once you start looking at cams etc etc.

Stock LS1 throttle bodies dont open all the way anyway. Adjust the throttle cable that should get you 100% from the pedal but it wont fix the throttle body not opening all the way.

I'm with Gen on this just take it somewhere and pay too get fixed or sell it and get a new car as you are getting nowhere with it by yourself and its just costing you more money fixing and testing parts that are ok, not too mention all the frustration that this saga has caused...

I had 42's with mine but I was running a smaller gas shot too, drove perfectly fine cam only.

Ok I'll add my 2 cents here, a fuel sys is a must for anything vt -vz pumping out 330+ rwkw. For those who dont believe here is a REAL world comparison. My car has been running a fuel sys since I fitted my NOS kit, it has been on the car for around 5yrs making around 400rwkw my rods are still...

G'day Pete sorry for the late reply I only just noticed this message. I have a dry kit spraying straight into the throttle body, its a cheap setup but it works and its reliable. I have had no drama's with blowing manifolds off etc like people do with wet shots. I havent done any work too the...

Just dont slip it too much driving around otherwise you will fark the clutch. It should only take around a 1/2 a second to a second in the total travel of the pedal the is a fine line between a quick slip and dropping the clutch.

You shouldn't use your handbrake if its your first time out, it will only complicate things. Your car will not roll as the track will be flat. Stop your burnout short of the start line and roll up to it slowly until the car is staged. Hold your clutch at the friction point and bring up the RPM...

You make a good point Steve but if you dont put a cam in chances are that you are not going to be reving the car that hard anyway. I reckon Holden/GM would have done a lot of testing to ensure the water pump etc etc would be up to the task in factory trim. I still do not think it is worth it...

As I said its a waste of time unless you are fitting a cam cause the balancer has to come off anyway....

No speed limits on a track.

My personal opinion is they are not worth it unless you are fitting a cam. The power difference you will not notice only about 2-3 rwkw.

Rubbish my cam is on a 110 LSA,stock heads. It drives fine with a manual with an auto it would be even easier and has enough power to run 11.7@118mph in a full street trim. It still gets 12-17L/100 round the city and sub 10's on the highway. I very much doubt you will get a true 340rwkw thru...

Go for the race shifter and if you don't like the height you can cut and shorten the stick to suit. I have the race shifter in my car but at the standard height, I find its easier to get gears fast than a shorter shifter but that's personal preference.

2 of these

Driving on the street that diff saw no track work apart from a few days at mallala thrashing around. It got driven hard on the street tho with over 400 rwkw going thru it. All the drag work I have done has been on the stock shimmed center which has also done a few days at mallala plus twice the...

Wasnt the only damage Tom Gears were ****ed and the housing itself was twisted and bent. Had to cut the center out of the diff housing.

Here is what happened to my kaaz

Here is mine warm idle 226/231 110 LSA YouTube - Cam idle And at the track with no exhaust http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SHVBE3GFpaA