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Excellent - this is what I was after. It's car #3 (just a weekender if we all want to go out and fit all the kids in the back) so don't need to drive it until repaired but sounds like i'm up for a new radiator - cheers all :D

OK, after having a sticky stat and a faulty heater tap i've now also discovered i've got some holes in my radiator. I bought a pressure test kit (i'm young(ish), i'll use it again one day) hooked it up, pumped once and it goes "PHHSSSHHHH". Oh ****. Top up the system to full and go again and...

It's a commodore - and a VT SS S1 at that .... even if it came with a fully stamped log book and manual there's no predicting what's going to happen to it. Oh, and I got it for $0 so not having any of these didn't phase me in the slightest.

A) When i bought my car 2nd hand it didn't come with the manual. B) The manual only states that this is an engine warning light C) I think there's about 100 different things that could be wrong to cause this light to come on, which the manual does not state any of them.

Yes. When you turn the heater control to on it should release vacuum pressure and the arm should come out allowing water to flow through. Remove the tiny little hose of it, put your finger over the end and see if you have any suction (while control is on cold, or swap - i'm learning this...

OK, knew nothing about this before starting to investigate. Was originally an overheating problem due to a sticky thermostat. Replaced it and thought it may have been another problem because i couldn't get heat through the air vents, but after checking everything I discovered that the old...

Jallal26, that is the engine problem light. Thing is, it coming on doesn't mean just 1 thing, it's telling you you need to investigate further. There is a thread on here *somewhere* that shows you how to manually check the codes by shorting out a circuit under the dash and counting the...

OK, it doesn't actually happen in drive (holds the 2K rpm on the highway) but it does in every other gear. Yes fluid was the first thing i checked and I have an intermittant O2 Sensor code from a while back but I haven't checked recently so will do that during the week .. what code would i be...

Urgh, typed my reply and hit the wrong button *facepalm*... OK, yes, it selects gears fine when you put your foot down, and will drive like a manual up through the gears (only doing this to test), and down through the gears it will go to the right RPM when you put your foot down but as soon as...

It's the ammonia in most window cleaners that damage a layer of the window tint, I discovered this myself the hard way. You have to scrub hard to get it off once it appears and then it appears to be a dry substance that you can see on your cloth. For interior windows a light spray of water + 2...

Bumping thread for weekend traffic ... there must be a few users on here that would know this =]

I know they are, I did the pads and rotors when I first picked up the car. I think however you have miss-read the part I need advice on, but thanks for keeping the thread near the top :)

Pop the bonnet and take the hose off the nozzles and see if it will come out the hose - good chance your nozzles are just blocked. If so autobarn sells aftermarket ones. If not, try taking the hose off the actual pump itself, if again nothing then pump is either FUBAR or blocked.

Because I have hills where i live and rather than apply the brakes every time I will drop it down a gear to hold the speed limit while coasting down the hill ... i'm not actually driving it like a manual besides that.

Have got the series 1 SS and whenever I downshift it doesn't appear to hold the gear i.e it's almost like dropping a manual into neutral .. there's no 'compression breaking' (excuse my lack of technical terms - i'm self taught). This is my first auto car but I know this isn't normal because...

Did you figure it out? I'm starting to have the same issue, haven't gathered enough information to post the problem yet but your problem sounds a lot like mine and it's a 98 VT SS Series 1 which must be the same

A lot of the time, so long as the unit is going to have all your requirements brand is really going to come down to personal choice (and budget). I'm a kenwood fan myself and would look there first, but that's not to say I wouldn't go to another brand should it do the right thing at the right...

And for anybody wondering, holden charges $210 for a new clock spring, bit pricey but the horn is now working and the car is now registered and on the road - look out gold coast ;)

So, in conclusion, I should have just bought a new clock spring from holden instead of screwing around with wreckers ;). Bypassed the clockspring by running 2 wires directly from clock spring connector into horn clock spring connector on airbag/horn pad, press the horn and hey presto she works...

Right, well, i've established that the problem is either in the clock spring or the pad. Through much checking and double checking i've found which are the 2 wires in the back of the clock spring connector which need to be shorted in order to sound the horn. In the VT SS there are only 4...

If you haven't already solved this (or for anybody else looking for the same answer) you should see 2 yellow plastic parts on each side of the connector, the left side being much more obvious. Get a flat blade screw driver and push from right to left a few mm. When you see the left side start...

OK, i've since got 12v to the right terminal in where the relay is and that works, and the relay works as i swapped it out with the low beam ones and lights still work fine. 12v into both connectors on both clock springs in the horn connector and nothing. I'd love to know which wire to put the...

Yes, if you haven't already upgraded the fronts then that is definately the first step. I replaced the front speakers with some old focal splits i had lying around, had to cut some speaker mounts as they were smaller than the OEM Speakers but that wasn't too hard. Best bet is to take the old...

Do i get to the pad by removing the air bag from the outer casing? I have a dead one here with a blown airbag that i pulled apart to see how it works but i'm a bit worried about pulling the airbag out on a bood one and it going off! Poop my pants would be the minimum.

No problems that i'm aware, so long as you have the stereo code you should be fine.

6x9's can be used in the right situation, but if you've got subs already in the boot then I personally would put as big a speaker as i could fit into the stock door fittings - good quality ones that are driven via an amp, not the head unit. Splits are a very good idea for the front and while...

:help: OK, the horn itself is fine as I have connected it straight to 12v and it works fine. I bought a 2nd hand clock spring from a wreckers and tried that and still nothing :bang: (was only $20 for whole column so what the hey). The wiring does look a little dodgey tho so what I was after...

Few more drives, haven't even had the light come on. Buggered if I know - unless something happens prior i'll have a check of the sensor when i get the car off the ground to do the rotors.

OK, drove to work this morning (35 klm HWY trip + 5 mins of local streets) and the light didn't come on. Got to work, cleared the codes, then went for a more spirited drive and the light came on. Only 1 code this time which is DTC 13 which might simply mean I've got a bad O2 sensor, will have...

Now this is what i'm talking about :) Just getting ready for work and will be leaving soon and will check under the car at work ... one other thing worth mentioning though is the air con doesn't appear to work - and seeing as how you mentioned aircon maybe it's the same cause? Thanks for all...

Have had the engine light start to come on but it's not every single trip. Have only had about 6 trips so i'm not yet to notice a pattern. DTC codes are 13 (RH Oxygen Sensor - no signal), 35 (Idle speed error (IAC valve unable to control idle speed) and 63 (LH Oxygen sensor - no signal)...

Thanks everybody for your replies. To update everybody as to what i've now done .... Bob Jane helped me out with 4 x new tyres - thanks bob :) Have come to the descision to order RDA slotted fronts and new pads front and rear. Will get around to the windscreen soon. Managed to find a...

OK cool, just wanted to make sure it wasn't something simple that didn't involve going into all that first. Just found airstrikes rightup so am printing now and hunting for something to short out the pins - thanks very much :)

It's the 5 litre - and there's no code - it's a little orange light that possibly looks like an engine - or a type of helicopter :) Either way it's the far left light directly under the C for Cold on the temperature guage. I'd use the manual to look it up but that's exactly my problem - just...

Bumpity Bump cause lots of users on and nobody is looking and anybody can solve this for me!

Anybody with a user manual please help with identifying Dash Warning light - VT SS OK, don't have the user manual and the orange light directly under the Cold level for the temp guage comes on, but not every trip. I am looking for a user manual online as we speak but this could a) be quicker...

I've just acquired a VT SS with a broken glove box (falls out as soon as you open it) but I have not inspected this during the day - when I do get around to having a go at fixing (shouldn't be too far down the track) i'll post the outcome.

I was wondering if you could let me know how much the rotors actually weighed so I can compare the cost of shipping as apposed to buying locally.

Sorry for the early bump but I'd like to order these parts ASAP and for whatever reason it took a long time for the post to appear so is waaay down on the list :hmmm:

Through some circumstances I have ended up with a (Build date) Feb 98 VT SS Commodore sedan for $0. Basically it's out of rego and needs a few things done and being family i've taken the ownership of it in exchange they will still be able to drive it from time to time when i'm done. Problem is...