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the ecu temp sensor is the one with the two pin plug, the gauge is the single wire.

yeah i was told buy a guy who has worked as a holden mechanic for 20 years that nissan set the cam gear 1 tooth out from factory so when changing a timing belt they got inreased one tooth.

i just bridged the two wires on the grey plug that are for the neutral start switch, i left the auto computer hooked up for a couple of weeks and the car ran fine.

auto trans problems and the plastics around dash rattling

i think it locks up in 4th and stops any torque converter slippage, my converter was slipping in 4th on acceleration my simple fix was put a manual box in it. it took a weekend to do but was worth it.

Thanx, it was auto 2 weeks ago but i bought a cheap vl with a manual and repalced the auto with the manual, drives so much nicer.

heres some pics of my calais

my calais doesnt have and lsd and my brothers v8 doesnt have an lsd, they might have been options but im sure all vl turbos came out with them

Being at zero ohms doesnt mean its stuffed just adjust it untill it gets to 381 ohms, the lower the ohms the richer it will run so the higher the ohms the leaner it will run. When i checked mine it was on 760 ohms.

im in the middle of doin the auto to manual conversion, one thing i found was that you have to remove the bush in the crank that centers the torque converter or you wont be able to put the spigot bush in. I found the auto came out easier than the manual as the manual has to be turned to remove

they would be the horn wires as execs dont have foglight wiring

There is a new recall for some vy's and vz's with side airbags. holden dealers will fit a earth spring on each front seat.http://www.recalls.gov.au/view_recall_detail.php?Recall_ID_Auto=13991

Front rotors have original thickness around 28mm and minimum thickness is 25mm rears have original thickness around 16mm and minimum is 13.9mm, holden will only replace them if car has had brake shudder twice, when machining it only takes off a fraction of a mm about 0.1mm and commodore rotors...

Its 400kms in vl calais with extractors, 2 1/2 inch ehaust and k&n panel filter, i wish i could get that fuel economy in my torana, its about 300 to a tank around town and its 60 litres. i will need to take vl on a highway run and see what my fuel economy is. The torana could get 9.5l/100 on...

i can get approx 400 km a tank with normal unlead and auto box and this is not highway driving, this is just driving to work

Before i did the conversion the tyres sometimes touched the gaurds on turns but when it was done it brought the wheel inwards and now theres clearance ans the gaurds arn't even rolled. The car has pedders superlows in it aswell. I was getting comfused about the different calipers and thinking...

so did the vlt come out with twin piston calipers aswell as the single piston finned calipers? if i was to fit the single piston finned calipers and fit the discs to suit from a vl v8 to replace the standard calipers would it be better off changing master cylinder to 1" bore and should i be...

i had a really good look at this car today, it has i tiny bit of rust around the windows, paint is really good for 18 year old paint, has a minor p/steer rack leak, interior looks new, it looks like it has had the seat covers on from day one. the motor sounds good, no tapping and doesnt blow...

What would be the going rate for a close to stock vl calais 6 cyl auto, a mate at work has one for around $5000, would this be a good price to pay. It is a very clean car with about 170000 kms.

the problem with the blinkers is in the blinker stalk, the blinker noise happens more frequently in the hotter time of the year as the contacts get warmer and expand, if you replace the blinker stalk it should fix your problem.

it seems to be a common thing to happen to crewmans and one tonners ive seen some so bad that they have a grinding noise from 10km/h upwards, it sounds like theres rocks in the bearings. ive even seen a brand new one tonner with a noisy diff it would have had under 10 km on the odometer. there...

does this only happen when the a/c is switched on or when the heater is on, if the a/c is switched on it could be a leak from the evaporator, if when the heater is on the heater core would probably be leaking, is it wet around the floor under the dash

it is probably low to no gas in system caused by a leak and causing the clutch not to engage, could be leaking from the compressor o-rings or the condensor in front of the radiator, have a look to see if the condensor has a wet look on any of the corners, thats where they seem to leak.

it should be water proof unless the person who installed it was too lazy to put all the seals in or the fitting kit was the older style fitting kit without the extra seals, contact the dealer you bought the car off and ask them if it has the later seals on the car

ive only ever replaced to bolts if fitting genuine brake pads as they come with new bolts, you don't need to replace them, if you want to be on the safe side use some loctite on the bolts when putting them back in

one thing ive found is the wiper bracket comes loose where the earth wire is bolted to and the wiper wont work, you could check behind the carpet and check the wiper motor bracket

checked a few commodores vt/vx commodores today and they didnt have the lights illuminated, the only commodore that has radio buttons illuminate are the vy/vz's and ive never seen any commodores wiper or bllinker stalks with lights on them

Has anyone had to replace the top bearing in the steering column, ive checked a couple of service manuals and theres nothing that tell you how to remove the bearing, is it just a matter of removing steering shaft or just removing the steering wheel.

it seemed to be common on vs's that the cruise control wires broke on the blinker stalk, could be the same on vt also could be a brake light out or brake switch not setup correctly.

its seems to be a common problem with air bag lights coming on and a pre tensioner or seat airbag code coming on, alot of the time it is caused by water getting into the terminals next to the seat.

one good thing about an ex-cop car is it should have an lsd, i was also told there is no such thing as a chip and the only reason they seem a bit powerfull over a standard executive is it has been thrashed since day one

the high/low beam globes are h4 and the single filliment highbeam is a h3

the vk tail lights fit onto the vl my brother has done it and the shape is the same

some things to look for are oil leaks from rocker covers, inlet manifold, sump, rearmain, p/steer rack, p/steer pump, g/box extension housing, sagged engine and gearbox mounts, thats all i can think of for now

I've driven plenty of vt to vy commodores with the 5 speed getrag and they all have gearbox whine, its normal.

i don't know if your car would have to wiring for the steering wheel controls, if it doesnt you can get the controls taken off the wheel as they are screwed on. there is already a clock spring on the steering column so it doesnt need to be fitted. i don't know how much it would cost to get it...

whining noise could also be from a/c compressor brackets not torqued up correctly from factory

the barrel has proabably siezed and may need new barrel, you can hit the barrel with a soft faced hammer and it can come unstuck so you can drive it to get it fixed. if the car is deadlocked and has a flat battery you can open the door by turning the key as far to the right as possible and it...

I had to do this to a car at work one day, i pulled the whole accelerator assembly out and did it on a bench as its hard to knock the pin out from under the dash.

A faulty clutch slave cylinder could also cause it to be hard going into first and reverse, i have found that if you hold your foot on the clutch for 5 secs then select the gear it goes in straight away.