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If your chasing power then go the 2jz. They are a superior motor to the RB engines, don't get me wrong the RB's are great but the 2jz will go a lot further before you need to upgrade the bottom end and the likes. Having said that they are more expensive and not as easy to come by as RB's, if you...

Thats all too true. I also read that there will possibly be v6 in capacities of 2.8, 3.2, and 3.6L and also read elsewhere that maybe a 3.2L single turbo. these will be along side possible versions of the 2L Ecotec etc. I dunno how true any of these claims are. If its being built in Europe...

Do the Calais come with the 180kw or the 195kw Alloytec. I would have thought you might have made a little more with those mods and a tune?

VS Series 2, 150,000 Replaced water pump, starter motor, hydraulic lifters, usual stuff like oxy sensors, temp sensors etc. Only mods cai, 2.5" cat back, which will probably be it until I upgrade to VZ or VE.

yeah checked the sensor just this morning and its fine. Will grab a new fuel pressure regulator (FPR) just a stock one for now. anyone know the rough cost of the OEM replacements?

Yeah changed this with a brand new one probably around a year ago now. Suppose I can give it a try as well and they're not real pricey. Prob will change the FRP as well and will see how it goes over the next few weeks.

Having some fuel problems: - Chewing way too much fuel - Car can be hesitant off the lights - Car will splutter when coming to a stop sometimes and has stalled twice from R to D and D to R Checked the codes and it keeps throwing code 76 at me: 'air/fuel variation between left and right...

haha yeh was not thinkin at all by the looks of it.

So I take yours is running FI? and is not N/A. I thought it was not necessary for FI if you get yourself a 2 bar or 3 bar (depending on how much boost your motor is gonna be built for ) MAF Sensor. Correct me if im wrong.

How about your compression? might b worth getting that checked.

Definitely, will be good to see if it works or not then everyone can comment on it, with some actual outcomes not just attitude or opinion.

Like everyone said its just gonna look cheap and you'll look like a try hard. Slow VR will you ever come up with something new?

Have a VS, VY has to be one of the best, Like the VE but a bit too heavy for me

Yeh thats for the ecotec's they are the GM Series II V6

I think you're jumping the gun a bit. All cars need maintaining and thats a fact of life you know this when you buy so you should be prepared for it. The things that need to be done to your car are pretty standard so I don't understand why you would want to sell it and upgrade to a VY SS which...

ITEM: Super Low Kings Springs Part No: KHPR-20HD LOCATION: Cairns, QLD CONDITION: 3 months old, were only in car for 2600 klm's PRICE: $100 plus postage to anywhere in AUS DELIVERY: Aust post PAYMENT OPTIONS: COD CONTACT DETAILS: PM please OTHER INFO: VGC, reason for sale: lowering car...

Just curious, what brand headers do you use? :thumbsup:

Panther96 your probably best going with FE2 suspension or king low springs which will bring the height down 30mm or so and also stiffen it up a little without being harsh. You got some really nice paint there :thumbsup:

So do they jus slide on where the original rubber (for the brake and clutch) and i'm guessing the accelerator is the whole piece itself like the standard (but obviously al with rubber)

lol why would we laugh at the 6 most of us on here own one!. I have a redback system on my VS ecotec and have never heard a crackle to date. I personally like the sound better than the lukey system which seem to be more high pitched and tinny sound whereas mine sounds lumpy at idle and low revs...

The buick in the VR has 130kw. Like lordhsv said its all going to depend on money but at least for now you can get a 2.5" cat-back sports system and CAI. Next on the list would be extractors and some high ratio rockers, maybe a chip n tune. A higher ratio lsd diff would be good as well as a...

I will be keen for another group buy in a months time :thumbsup:

Well cause its happening at a certain speed rather than engine speed i'm starting to think along the lines of torque converter or something to do with your gearbox? It may also be something else within the engine as it is happening under load. Anyone else any ideas?

Its definitely worth taking the IAC valve out. Just unplug and undo the two screws (be careful not to lose the washers) and give it a wipe with tb cleaner until all the carbon is removed. Can also check its operation by starting car with it plugged in and it should move in and out.

From the photo its the one to the right of the vent hose. Pretty small in diameter maybe 5-10mm. In the photo it appears to have an elbow where as mine just has an inner tube that is thinner and extends past the outside tube. The the hose from the tb slides over this, wouldn't seal at all really...

I think i know which hose your talking about, it doesn't really connect properly to another hose it kinda slides over the end of another one which is lying on the manifold between the runners? I don't know exactly what this hose does and I have wondered if its supposed to have a proper...

Any vibrations or anything, is it still shifting gears properly? There is so many things it could be, need as many details as possible. Have u revved the car in neutral and noticed the noise or is only while driving?

Where you losing power when it was doing this or is it just the noise? Does it stop if you slow back down and then start when you reach 40 again?

Id much rather have a polished plenum and runners than the painted cover. Looks much better imo BUT it does take a lot of time to get it to look half decent, and most people just cbf, when i get the time i will get around to doing mine:whistling

Is it more of a whistle (like air or a turbo whistle ) or a whurring noise like a rooted bearing makes?

With the link pin kit that you have used there should be hardly any pre load at all as long as the pin is facing the right direction, the whole purpose of the z shape is to stop the pre load on the bushes or at least eliminate most of it (the deformation you see when the wheels are straight and...

There will be a noticeable difference if they are flogged. If they are the car will be running in open loop mode and it will set the air:fuel ratio to 14.7:1, to be on the safe side. If they have never been changed then its worth the $70-80 each and it only takes 5 mins to do.

The stud holes in the wheel are 2mm bigger (14mm) than earlier models (12mm) so they wont need machining! You will need either spacers to make up the difference or use bigger (2mm bigger) wheel studs in your hubs but have yet to hear of anyone doing that, would not recommend using spacers but if...

I think those rims are the SS rims for the VR but became the S rims for the VS as the VS SS got new rims.

If you have the money go for it, at least it's something different no harm in that :thumbsup:

bascially its power to weight that will get you going good but its gonna cost a lot more to get a commodore keepin up with those silvias (apples v oranges)(S15 is the way to go if you like rice) but at least with a commodore you can cruise around pretty comfortably with a full car or luggage if...

Then you caa use a caramel wheel which attaches to a drill to remove any of the sikaflex, followed by a good cut and polish hopefully it wont have many marks if any left.

Haha i wish, i'm in townsville there is an Eagers Holden spare parts centre here. Everyone i know has VR's so im outta luck with that.

Eagers Holden spare parts want to charge me $415 for a new one wtf! Repco will do $196 i thought it be around half that price, Has anyone one replaced one if so what price did you get it for?

Not quite sure what you mean. There is a plug running to the MAF sensor and there is also a plug running to the air box which I think is a temperature sensor (correct me if I'm wrong). I wouldn't be unplugging them if its what I think, as it will throw your fuel economy out the window maybe give...