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Not sure if it would have eaten em, but for cleaning carbon deposits off etc I find B1 works wonders and leaves no residue once it evaporates.

Just a little update on how everything has been going so far Since running the car on the Dyno, I have had a few more issues + Tail Shaft vibration at > 4800rpm + Diff knocking / chattering when thrown into turns + Nolathane Lower Control arm bushes splitting when doing 3 - 1 launches The Tail...

I'm running stock calipers with DBA 4000's & Remsa pads on my L67 conversion making 200+rwkw. Pulls up very well. Should get you by for a while before you decide to upgrade to the VE big brake kit.

+1 on Cam + Custom tune for the 5ltr. Tuned a mates high comp 5ltr with a fairly big cam and it made ~170+rwkw. The torque curve was really fat too and pulled well on the street.

1-2 & 2-3 Solenoids are the same from VR - VS. As Immortality said, the only change was the addition of a PWM solenoid for VS + boxes when locking up the Torque Converter. (That's why VS+ Gearboxes have a 13 pin connector whereas the VR only has a 12 pin)

Depends how far you're going to go. Raptor is good if you only plan on pushing about 10psi through a stock Ecotec. They make good power too per PSI of boost If you nuke an Ecotec its no big deal; $200 + 1 Weekend later and your back on boost. Contrary to what people say a bog stock L67...

Worn bushes on Lower trailing arms & Upper trailing arms on a solid axle diff will create all sorts of vibration. My bushes were absolutely flogged and after replacing them my vibration issues vanished :D

A little bit of heat with a Heat Gun (Don't apply too much heat in one area) will help it come off easier too

Really needs a proper tune

Yeah the little hoses outside of the tank which connect to the filler neck hose / tube are the vapor hoses. I would replace all of them while the tank is out of the car. You will need ~2.5m (depending on your tank) of ~4.6mm (3/16") Fuel Vapor Hose. Will set you back by $15 bucks or so.

Center bearing you can do yourself very easily / cheaply. There is a How To on here which I used when I did mine. Bearing will cost you $35. Make sure you put a line along the tail shaft from end to end so you know how it goes back together. Vibration could also be due to worn uni's...

I used 3M fabric adhesive from Bunnings. Be sure to only apply a very thin coat so it doesn't soak through the fabric and stain it. If you're going to re-do the whole lot (which I recommend as the rest of the fabric will most likely fall off soon anyway): 1) pull roof lining out 2) peel the...

If you can make your own out of LED strips you can fit a fair few LED's (30+) in there and make it really bright like this:

That K Frame looks hammered!!! Really nice fix though. Your only other solution would be to replace the K Frame itself but that pretty much requires the engine to be unbolted from it and held in place with an engine crane etc. Do you have pics of your new mount welded in place? Try as...

Lol and pedders wanted $130 to supply SuperPro's and press the new ones in.... Got mine for $60 bucks on trade and cost me next to nothing to fit them.

So today I pulled out the garbage Nolathanes and pressed in the new SuperPro ones. I had to make a plate to sit in the arm over the bush to prevent it from distorting when pressing out the old ones. I made mine out of some 2.5" steel pipe by first cutting it to the correct width, then cutting...

checked the gear selector arm underneath the car to make sure its properly lined up with the gearbox?

Hey guys, I was wondering if anyone has attempted to press the lower front trailing arm bushes (ones which connect to the chassis). If you have, did you have any issues with the arms bending where the steel shell sits? I have access to a press and have pressed in the other bushes with no issues...

I have a little experiment I wanted to test which would only work with W2A *involves dry ice* ;)

Yeah most definitely !!! Gonna quickly test out a 12" pulley to see by how much blower exhaust temps increase by; then gonna slap on the W2A plate and ramp it up to a 2.5" pulley.... Then maybe early - mid next year a 3.4ltr Whipple or take all the blower gear and drop it on that car I put NOS...

Just a little update to let you guys know how the L67 is all going!!! In the time it has been in; it has broken the following: + Smashed tail shaft 3 times + Smashed the output shaft once + Split trans cooler on the dyno + Needed bigger injectors because they were being maxed +...

Yeah it goes without saying; don't sell your old engine. Just grind the number off and send it to the metal recycler... or use it as a fancy boat anchor... or let it rust in your back yard; whatever floats your boat ;p

For a stock L67 converter yeah? I thought so too...

Really? I can't get more than 2000 with it behind the Ecotec though :(

It's just a smudge more than 2000 rpm. Good little upgrade for next to nothing

Box has been in the car for a few days... drives good. It's got a corvette servo behind it and it chrips gears nicely. I also put my stock 2300 converter from my L67 gearbox behind it; the stock ecotec one makes it struggle in comparison... I should be hitting it with a 200+ shot soon. stay tuned.

you 'used to'... what does it pull now? mid 4's? :D

Yeah I agree with JXW u need to comply with the emissions standards for that year of engine. You are technically not allowed to block off the EGR stuff.... Then again ... there's nothing stopping you from sanding the VY engine number off and stamping your original VS engine number onto it...

Yeah stock cats are 400cpi... highflow 'legal' ones are 200cpi... then the illegal ones r 100cpi. I fitted twin cats to my vs only because its got an L67 behind it. (twin 2.25" from extractors -> twin 2.25" cats -> merges to 3") They don't hang too low; in fact there's a decent amount of...

New box should be in tomorrow afternoon. After that I'll look into drilling out the jets I have to flow more than 150HP worth of nos ;)

Pulled the box out to get it rebuilt. Lol the steels had a bit of rust on them. As for the frictions.... lets just say the only 2 things which still had friction material on them was the 2-4 band and the overrun clutches lol! Everything else looked almost like this: I guess the water finally...

At the moment I'm going to w2a it with the m90 and put a 2.5" pulley on it (Still need to fit a bigger fuel pump and surge tank) If that isn't quick enough; then either a 3.4L Whipple or a GT42. Twin turbo's are nice but a real headache to get working

Yer I wish I knew how strong these v6's were b4 I rebuilt that L67... I wouldn't have spent so much money on forged pistons, rods etc. Instead I would have just dropped a set of cometics and mace metal LIM gaskets on an ecotec and put a decent turbo setup on it and fronted it with a 3000...

I pulled the plugs out last weekend... turns out the motor went a bit lean on Cyl 6 when it was being hit with NOS. The electrodes on the remaining cylinders looked almost new. Lol held up quite good for 20+ passes ! bring on the 200 - 250 shot !!! :D

Well, since blasting it on a 150 shot the car had been sitting around doing nothing for a few months. I recently got a RWC on it and registered it because I planned on bolting up a cheap turbo kit on it and squeezing 300rwkw out of it with nothing more but headgaskets, injectors and tune :D But...

Local Bolt Shop. If I remember correctly its an M8 thread. Take your old ones as a sample and they'll help you out.

I was referring to the op pointing out that he had water in his oil. As for the pump it could possibly be the bearing which is worn causing excessive play and letting coolant out of the seal... or maybe it could be leaking from the gasket

Definitely sounds like there is air in the system. Turn the heater on and bleed it out with the bleed screw and top up the overflow bottle after and it'll be fine

+1 on the Lower Intake Manifold Gaskets. The gaskets are plastic and get brittle over time and crack. If you decide to change them be sure to get MACE's metal LIM gaskets. They will last the lifetime of the car / engine. Blowing a head gasket is fairly unlikely unless you overheated the motor...

Also depends on how much boost you want to run as well. Stock motors are generally only good for around 10 psi (Depends on tune / head gasket) the L67 bottom-end is strengthened for boost... and can handle 20psi no worries. Then again several factors will determine how reliably each motor will...