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hey guy firstly thanks for all your help.. took it to the mechanics i know today for a service.. told him about the air leak.. he found some lines at the back of the engine which were leaking...they were not lines i touched problem has been solved , engine running beautiful again.. he said no...

Did a quick spray this morning..only spot that changes revs is the drivers side injector closest to the rear.. When I spray it revs up a bit each time.. Could that be it?? Thanks

I did but not from the engine..I labelled and took photos ,so they definitely went back on the right way.. Is that what you meant? Thanks

Hey guys any ideas where, apart from holden, where i would get one of these..i.e brake light assembly that sits in the sports bar.. need one for RWC thanks

will do...cleaned throttle body today, checked fuel lines,one is hard to get off coming from the wall,it was hard to get off when i did the gaskets as well, maybe o-ring is pinched , not sure..undid and re-did EGR..it really feels like a fuel prob., when i push the accelerator there is a bit of...

Ok..still running rugged..sounds like it might be sucking air right near the throttle body.. I'll clean the body.. Maybe when I took the EGR off and on ?? All I can think of ?! Does This help at all?? Thanks

ok i'll see what happens tommorrow and i'll give an update thanks heaps

well i had an o-ring left over and could not find where the hell it went.. turns out one of the injectors was missing one.. i've just put it back and quickly started the car but might not have fixed it.. i'll give it a good run tommorrow and see what happens.. did it make an instant...

Ok Didn't clean any sensors..fuel lines came off pretty easily,there is no obvious leak at all,actually one was harder than the other..only disconnected the two and labelled them..not sure if i damaged rings ? Purge hose under throttle is all good and checked..only other line disconnected...

Hey guys Did inlet and rocker gaskets on the weekend..giving it a good drive today...driving nice,temp fine,no oil lights coming on, no leaks..but The engine is idling a bit roughly to the point where it nearly stalls at a standstill in drive..a tiny bit of coughing out of exhaust..in neutral...

hey guys was quoted $900 to get this on a vu's' ute: "requires new steering rack due to movement and rack leaking and boots split" i am happy to do it myself with a reco rack or whatever you guys recommend.. will allow a day to do it.. read a few of the old threads and some great tips advice...

ok everyone , thanks heaps for all your help..like a lot of people i was having a go and thanks to the forum was successful with a lot...firstly i was coming off an inlet manifold and rocker cover gasket change that took a night and some of the morning..i was buggered!!! the whole brake thing...

mate i've bled them 3 times but maybe not enough.. i'll be doing them again this morning with someone....i may have to think it may be the master cylinder..?? running out of ideas thanks

ok just went for a quick drive and brakes are no good but the handbrake warning light keeos coming on and sounding..handbrake feels like it is definitely off though..does this give any clues to what the problem might be..?? also i've got a hand coming over and we are going to bleed a lot of...

yep, i checked the flair on the pipe and line was exactly the same as old one...new line and threads went in perfect and no leaks/slack etc

mate, havn't touched anything.. when the spanner arced from alternator to brake line i immediately went to wreckers, grabbed a new one, screwed it in place and then bled the system twice..turns out i probably did the front ones wrong but now i've done them properly since...checked fuses, all...

yep 100%..i think i've done everything tom the book now so its just so frustrating as to whats wrong...i have not gone for a test drive due to obvious reasons...just not sure what to try next..?? thanks

just tested the booster with your method..pedal sank when engine started.., only two unions were at the main cylinder and then to the modulator.. nothing else has been touched at all with the brake system.. all the calipers and pads are in good nick.. never had a prob with brakes at all...if...

one other thought guys is it 99% chance with spongy brakes in this situation that it is air in the lines...?? just trying to narrow things down as i need to get it going by monday....?! thanks heaps

ok did the bleed to the method suggested (sabbath)and with two people... pedal still goes to the floor.. any other ideas..? could it be electrical due to the spannerb 'arcing' onto the line..?? any help appreciated

ok thanks for the advice sabbath.. did so much work last night and this happens right at the end..just trying to get everything back on track without too much help on hand.. will give your first method a shot ,with some help from somewhere... thanks heaps

ok well the front two brakes don't have nipples just bleeder screws..the rear have nipples..! so, if i get someone to compress the pedal for me when doing the front it should alleviate the sucking back of air right..?? for front brakes.......loosen screw, getb someone to compress pedal and...

also, just checked the fuses in engine comp. and near steering wheel , all fine... only thing maybe is when i bled the front brakes i was on my own and loosened the line screws and went and pressed/pumped the pedal and then went back and tightened them..should i have put a tube over the screw...

hi all just did inlet and rocker gaskets on my vu ute..as i was putting the engine cover on i had a lead in the way..i had to undo the screw off the back of alternator and didnt disconnect the battery anyway spanner 'arc'ed onto one of the brake lines coming from the main cylinder to abs...

righto did the front castor rod bushes this arvo and all is complete...all nuts came undone pretty easily with a few taps with a hammer on the spanner and a couple of skinned knuckles..must say a few tips from the forum were awesome...1.turn the wheel full lock to take pressure off...2.take the...

Well I'm doing inlet man and rocker cover gaskets fri/sat...also doing front castor bushes..big weekend..anyone know where I can get fuel line disconnector tool? Also do I definitely need to drop the oil before I start? Thanks guys

Yeah..I will do the gaskets and if it still sludges I will change the radiator..if that fails I too will see you at the cliff Thanks

ok did a complete cooling system flush today and got rid of heaps of sludge..had engine cover off and rocker gaskets definitely gone..i'm fine to give the gaskets a go,might take a while but good to do myself.. i wonder if the auto trans cooling line seals need to be done, didn't even think of...

No,didn't change any of the hoses..rocker cover gaskets are definitely leaking..oil is getting spat around the engine bay by the fans too..thought I might as well do the intake manifold gasket also..I presume it can fix the problem..there is sludge in the coolant reservoir too..was going to...

The sludge problem only started after changing the heater tap if that gives any clues..!?

Ok..it's creamy brown.. I am selling the car once it's fixed, so do you think I just get the gaskets from supacheap and do them.. Thanks

yeah..i flushed it properly car overheated today and all the sludge was pouring out of the overflow...engine had used oil as well.. i filled it with water again and replaced oil.. dipstick oil was still clear of any sludge though.. i think it might be time to replace inlet manifold and rocker...

just read an old thread and the coolant stick is sludgy as well.. so i assume its the inlet manifold gasket..!! are they hard to change?? thanks

hey all new to the forum but love reading it.. i have a vu's'2 ute.. was losing water a lot so i changed the heater tap and water leak has stopped but i have this sludge in the radiator now.. i'm tipping it's not the head gasket ?? rocker cover gaskets need replacing though which i'll be...