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The senator will love you for even the top end party you were planning.....

I've requested entry to the group. Thanks for that. It seems right down my alley. I'll have a close look at my block to see, but it looks quite beefy on one side of each web, and slight clearanced (factory) on the other. Nice. I very much like your cam choice!

I tried to order CRD splayed caps today. Awaiting a return email with shipping prices....

I go the other way, Trans to front mount cooler (bottom fitting) Front cooler top fitting to radiator Radiator to trans.

Any opinions on 4 bolt main caps? I think the COME ones are overkill for my needs, and are more work (expense) to set up. Considering between: - M&W - Milodon. Leaning towards milodon

I have guide plates, hardened pushrods, and crane golds on my current 355" Maybe 12 years.

Crane Energizer maybe?

Which crane rockers? I'm using crane gold, 7/16 stud mount with guide plates. I was planning around .550lift and low 7's rpm (7500 absolute max)

Buy a cheap flag, attach it to the mini, and drive it down main street with it on fire????

That's a good write up. So going over my build thread in summary: I picked up a VN short block with eagle rotating assembly about 11 years ago. It had done about 5,000km in a VK (early heads). I cc'd the pistons at about 12cc from memory. This gave me low 9's compression. I threw in a crow 4502...

I read an old post from AV8 and knight engines (someguy360's machinist) said scat would be good up to around 7500rpm and 550hp. COME crank is good for over 8000rpm and 600hp. Great, I definitely want the come crank as I want more RPM! Except it is almost twice the price of the scat, plus...

More details please. It sounds right down my alley.

So oil comes in from the right of screen, needs 120° turn to get to #1 main and I don't see any way to get in there.... It then continues up and 90° turn forward then 90° back down to feed LH gallery and cam bearings, and all the other mains, and RH gallery.

Also increased block oil feed hole radius this weekend. I am considering running a drill bit down that hole also though.

After a week or so of to and fro, today I have ordered the scat SBC journal crank over the COME racing crank. Also ACL 2thou undersize cam bearings. Next decision is which 4bolt kit to order, and where to buy scat 6" rods with 7/16 arp2000 bolts from.

Here is a space to chat about your 355" build (specifically). Post pictures, and chat about different options. (Similar to bjf66 350 build thread). Yes it's all been done before, but it's good to have a current chat about 355" things as the world changes. Off topic chat will be...

@VS 5.0 can we assume you are at Optus stadium awaiting the first bounce? Good luck.

I got a 'police spec' rad, I think it was adrad. Cooler temp 'high flow' thermostat. Stock fan and shroud. Stays pretty even temp even when thrashing or towing or whatever. Buy a good radiator. It'll be the best money you ever spend on it. My rad was over $600 but well worth it.

Probably need to do springs with anything you throw in there. This is small and still recommends springs upgraded: https://crowcams.com.au/product/holden-v8-304355-vn-vt-efi-hydraulic-roller

You haven't really answered the question. Cam options are completely different if it is a 5ltr versus if it is an R8 LS based motor. And no-one can recommend until we know. Maybe post a picture so we can see (and very quickly identify)

Isn't the R8 later model LS only? Or did it come earlier? Is it a VT 5ltr roller motor? What is your plan on ECU tuning?

Nah, you did it right. I was just saying if you have any issues with the bolts only you can fix it without lifting the intake.

Just so you know, if you move headers out of the way, rocker covers off, and a few specific rocker arms, you can actually do all the head bolts without removing the intake manifold. Ask me how I know. Okay, it's from that time my head studs were leaking coolant into the top end from...

If you borrow the trailer for free, maybe donate the shellrock for a path to the trailer? Better for you and the owner.

Tahoe or Yukon I think would be the first to hunt down. Not sure on there status in Aussie though, might not be very common.

Blazer maybe? Actually any number of Chevy trucks. 4l60e with transfer box isn't actually too uncommon at all.

Remove the tail housing from the 4l60e first, and then compare spline count and shaft size to the drive gear on the transfer case. Surely almost anything can be made to work with some correct engineering. My truck is running a jatco 4n71b into a series 3 land-rover transfer case. (Someone...

A set of highway's then. And a pair of A/T on the old rims for the rear, for winter, for when going to collect the trailer.

Yeah, I see what you are saying there. I was using the VY acclaim for hauling the kids around alot. Then pulled out the VR SS after what felt like forever and used it solely for a day or two. Damn those seats are like concrete compared to the acclaim. Ya get used to it and they are comfy enough...

Probably scuff tape

I might watch that last qtr in the morning then (even though I know the result)

Are they the clear Perspex glass protectors like the Ventura brand? Yeah should just pull off no worries.

I watched the first half. That 2nd quarter was intense. Good to see the young kiwi boy kick his first AFL goal.

Easter bunny waiting for the cover of night before sneaking out?

Yeah ballast resistors (with a good set of fins for heat sink) to up the wattage usage to match a standard incandescent. Or an actual solid state flasher corrector which will do a timed flasher output irrelevant of LED wattage etc. But for losh, yeah price up stock indicators first.

If you can live scan you can see it responding to pedal action. If not, maybe a multimeter on the output while running it through it's motion range??

T.P.S issue maybe?

Usually they sell cheap sealed LED indicators, and you just bin one if it breaks. It would unfortunately likely be a whole new indicator for lost. Genuine might be cheap enough (then again, maybe not)

I'm glad you got that Buell.