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9 year old thread dig there pal

Car: vn exec Engine: S1 buick Trans: t5 Mods: Moderate cam Big compression Ported heads Built bottom end 100hp wet shot of nitrous 3.9 locked diff Blah blah blah best ET: 13.8 Best MPH: 99 MPH Haven't run it with nitrous yet but should got mid-low 13s :)

Noisy input shaft bearing, throw out bearing, spigot bearing Does it stop if you push the clutch in?

Leave the pod filters to ricers and turbo guys no gains over a good panel filter and cold air intake, but even then you won't notice any difference with any of the above setups besides not getting bent over by the local bronze, extractors are a wise investment provided they aren't bolted up to a...

Nope you'll have to get the Y-piece modified

If you're only spending $500 probs best off leaving the car stock and spending the $500 on LSD you'll have more fun. ;) $500 won't get you far enough to bother

Plenty of people making well over 300kw on the stock 3.8 crank, just seems a lot of money for .4 litres of displacement when you could build a turbo kit with quality parts a good tune and some supporting internals aswell as making twice the power, can't argue with boost for bang for buck

A friend of mine has a 202 powered 30 inch wood saw for cutting redgum sleepers, a truly terrifying piece of machinery but it cuts them like butter, there is v8 chainsaw on youtube aswell

Went back to Calder today best of 14.3 at 97mph on street tyres without nitrous. Not bad for standard stroke N/A on street tyres :)

Engine swaps in vns are easyall up probably 30 bolts to undo, take off the loom and fuel rail Crain the old one out and drop the new one in getting the engine mounts to drop in can be a bastard try loostening they bracket on the block a little so you have a bit more play, healthy 5Ls are getting...

It more of a driving style related fuel consumption issue, aswell as doing a lot of ks with 3.9s aswell as it needing a tune

T5s hate big drops, there are t5s in the US taking 500hp stock it all depends how you drive em, I'm on my 5th t5, 3rd tailshaft, and 3rd diff 2.5mm was as close to 'true' flat tops as I could find [email protected] is bugger all more than 212 hardly worth the money to swap, even mine is annoying on the...

It could be but because you 'be just started the engine the coolant temp sensor will be readying stupid low and telling the ecu to dump in for fuel to get the engine to running temp, try driving it till it's warm pulling over turn it off and turn it back on the high startup idle should be gone,

It's plenty quick enough for a daily, 2.5mm dish with 120thou off the heads and block combined on 98 with 167rwkw without gas on an average tune, it will dip into high 12s with a tune, 100 shot gas and slicks and it's still a daily hahaha a stupid big cam is no good on the street, how often do...

That makes sense haha I'm only paying $140 for a refill ATM and I'm running flat tops with a 60tho decked off the heads and the block plus the oversized valves have a bigger radius and protrude into the cylinder a fair but more than stock valves, going in for a dyno tune soon so I'll get some...

Comp is around 11:1 which is plenty enough and I'm not going to spend money getting 1mm extra lift when my PTV is already very close when I can just jet another 50hp of nitrous into it, I have over size valves already so less lift and more flow it will go high 13s with a tune, ETs without gas...

Vn S1s never had em mine cops a hard time with 100hp of gas jammed down it's throat and I've never had an issue

Pretty easy job should only take a couple of hours remove belt remove harmonic balancer remove timing cover remove gear on the top shaft and bolt it back together with new gaskets seals

I'm pretty sure I read somewhere that you're meant to retourque MLS gaskets after a few heat cycles

Seen a few setups in the Spare wheel well, front bumper twins either side of the trans if there is a will there is a way any rear mount setup is not ideal due to plumbing to the rear of the car (oil feed and return coolant feed and return then from outlet of turbo to inlet of engine a lot if...

Huh? Turbo catback doesn't exist, dump pipe runs from turbo outlet to cat converter then cat back is the same turbo or not

Mine is very similar with a small Clive cams 48a Motor built by SRE, nitrous is a lot of fun, don't let the horror stories put you off if you do it properly you won't have an issue

Not bad at all man! Good times, I now have a 75hp nitrous setup on mine should get it to around 110mph hopefully low 13s with ETs might bump it up to a 100 shot later on, what has your engine had done?

Can be done if you're up for shovelling mountains of cash into a fire

To be fast I guarantee you'll have to touch the motor 127 kw (less than that now) will only get you so far, ecotec conversion really isn't worth the hassle not going to slap an Eco and be done with it still won't be fast by any means, before you do anything you have to realise that modding v6s...

Same same for ecos still bloody expensive to make em quick

There is good power to be had out of the buicks just costs a lot to get out of em mine has a built motor a 75hp shot of gas plenty quick enough for now

25psi was referring to full slicks and only because I was worried about breaking **** but have since decided to go for ET streets pressure depends a bit car to car but 16psi seems like a pretty solid starting point drop it .5 psi each pass untill 60' time gets worse and bump it up a little

Intentionally riding the clutch at 6000 rpm is incredibly stupid please explain your reasons for doing so

^nailed it, diff gears, boost, nitrous, built engine they are your only real options. Pod filter = 100 retard points No point putting a bigger TB on a stock motor all it will do is slow air speed down and kill low end power

Well that's my thinking, 75hp wet shot won't make it any better either

Yeah I'm leaning towards ET streets now just for the easy of being able to drive to the track on them, yes I'm aware they are not Australian dot approved, no I don't care I like my chances of getting away with it as I live close enough to Calder for it not to be an issue, I know that tyre...

Bolt ons are a waste of time and money without a tune and internal mods, Cam, shaved and ported heads, flat tops but as far as bang for buck goes just turbo it, I should have to start with, if you're worried about cops leave it stock as soon as you touch a vn mechanically the cops 5 suburbs away...

I have a pair of billet axles in it ATM tailshaft will probably go before anything else, I ran a 2.0 60' before I went 3.9 diff gears but traction became an even bigger issue with 3.9s will be installing nitrous in the next few days and I'll be running fairly high tyre pressures to minimise...

Car is a vn v6 manual with a bit done to it best slip so far 60' - 2.3 1/4 - 14.62 MPH - 96 The 60' time is pretty shocking because of traction just wondering how much time I could potentially shed going from 17 x 235 street tyres to 15 x 215 full slicks? Cheers guys

Really wouldn't bother with any kind of manifold mods uneducated people crap on about how good their twin throttles are but the reality is even I highly strung buick wouldn't 't max out a 65mm 5L throttle body think about it buick v6s have 6 small inlet valves which can only flow so much without...

Don't listen to anyone who tells you have a mystical 'cop chip'

Easy as I dunnonwhyball you guys are having a crack at him for, just head down to your local horsepower shop and buy another 150hp easiest to have them install it for you, in all seriousness getting much more than 160rwkw out of a buick is pretty bloody expensive better off throwing as much...

Plus the dragster in question has bead lockers to stop the rim spinning in the tyre most seriously quick cars run em

Delcowizzid and immortality are onto it there is defiantly slip a lot more than just load up i'd be willing to say at least two full rotations before 100% traction is achieved, trying to load up a tyre with 3000hp in a split second would grenade even the strongest of driveline components just as...