1/4 of oil gone in 3 months - why ?

[wire_weaver]

where are u located Adelaide? i could ask the boss on quote

Sydney. Thanks anyway.

 

[Immortality]

The scumming under the radiator cap is a classis symptom of stuffed intake gaskets and the PCV valve is the most likely reason for increased oil consumption.

I'd be doing the above before the rear main seal.

 

[wire_weaver]

Thanks immortality.

The scumming under the radiator cap is a classis symptom of stuffed intake gaskets

KTAS claimed the intake gaskets weren't a problem as the radiator passed the pressure test. Perhaps they were wrong. I'm happy for them to replace the valley gaskets if they need replacing, but it would be good to know that before they do the work to get to them.
What are other reasons that oil would leak into the coolant just so I can rule that out before asking them to replace the valley gaskets.

I will get the PCV valve changed at the same time any other work is done as it seems quick and cheap to do that. In the meantime I might also try to do a test to see if it is stuck open or closed.

 

[losh1971]

At 193k the valley cover gaskets probably need replacing regardless of the KTAS tests saying otherwise.

 

[Immortality]

Blown head gasket would do it but it's not a common problem on the ecotec where as stuffed intake gaskets definitely is.

There is no way to really test the PCV valve operation in the engine that I'm aware off. I've tried cleaning them but not with complete success.

In the end I modified the PCV system, fitted and external PCV and catch can.

 

[wire_weaver]

At 193k the valley cover gaskets probably need replacing regardless of the KTAS tests saying otherwise.

OK, thanks losh1971.

 

[losh1971]

If you have another mechanic that can do the job rather than KTAS it might save you a few bucks. KTAS will probably want to supply the gaskets and will charge Repco retail. Plus at $120 an hour for close to 4hrs work the costs will soon add up.

 

[wire_weaver]

Blown head gasket would do it but it's not a common problem on the ecotec where as stuffed intake gaskets definitely is.

OK ,thanks, I'll get some quotes to have them replaced.

There is no way to really test the PCV valve operation in the engine that I'm aware of

The site I linked to above had an interesting idea for testing hard to access PCV valves/hoses. I might try points 2-4 below, to see if there is a vacuum present beneath the oil cap.

2. Alternative Tests-PCV Valve

1. Another way to test for vacuum is to pinch or block the vacuum hose connected to the PCV valve. Idle speed will drop between 40 to 80 rpm, and then rise back to normal. If not, look for a blocked or restricted vacuum hose or valve.
2. On some engines, access to the PCV valve is difficult. In these models, you can remove the engine oil dipstick and seal the dipstick tube opening with a piece of tape.
3. With the engine at idle, remove the cap from the oil filler on the valve cover. Then place a thin piece of cardboard(/paper) over the opening.
4. Wait for about one minute. You’ll notice vacuum suctioning and holding the paper against the opening. Otherwise, there’s a leak in the system, or the system is clogged. Check the condition of the hoses, hose connections and grommet."

 

[Drewie]

Just going back to the oil level, if you read your Holden Handbook the way they say to check oil is a few minutes after turning off the engine
ie when filling with fuel, so I would say the dip sticks are calibrated accordingly, my VX SS if I check it like the handbook suggests it is right on the full line, if I check it in the garage after sitting overnight it is usually a good 1 to 1 1/2 cm past the full line.

When you think about it the mechanic servicing the car is going to fill it to the max line, he is not going to wait around for hours to check it.
As a matter of interest I check mine cold after it has been sitting overnight but I know where the level will be, a cm and a bit past the max.

 

[wire_weaver]

if you read your Holden Handbook the way they say to check oil is a few minutes after turning off the engine ie when filling with fuel, so I would say the dip sticks are calibrated accordingly

Excellent point Drewie ! You are so right - it makes perfect sense. The Mechanic is not going to wait around for the car to cool or give you more oil than the car needs as it would be an unnecessary waste of money, and not good if it causes more leaks. I assumed they didn't check the dipstick but instead drained it completely and added whatever the manual said for a full refill. So I now will check it as per the manual and it will likely be spot on the Full line.