383 hatch
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jun 14, 2005
- Messages
- 3,922
- Reaction score
- 67
- Points
- 48
- Age
- 41
- Location
- Cowes, Phillip Island
- Members Ride
- VG Ute 5.0,Torana hatch 383,WB Ute 5.0,VR stato5.0
Hi mate, thanks for the compliments.
Yes, i did the steering conversion with the CRS front mount rack kit. I have only tried to use the rear mount rack once and there wasn't enough room for a standard HQ sump, you would need to cut heaps out of the sump to get the rack in. So, from then on i've stuck with the front mount rack which works quiet fine but you lose a bit of steering lock over the steering box, but it's hardly noticeable. Also has a 3/4 chassis kit, which really strengthens the car up no end.
With the exhaust, yes you get heaps better clearance with the pipes out the guards. The problems with going down through the rails is that the pipes really hug the starter motor and the block & sump, the starter is a bastard to get in and out that way, but out through the guards it just bolts straight in. IMO, out through the guards is definately the way to go on an early Holden.
For brakes, it's running VN V8 front calipers and rotors (CRS conversion kit) and VN rear discs & calipers on a shortened VN Borg Warner diff (cut & shortened by me) with a modified Gemini booster and XB Falcon master on the firewall. I've used this set up quiet a few times on early Holdens and it works very well. The booster & master is a bit of messing around to fit but it's definately worth the effort.
Make no mistake, it's a lot of work in an early Holden to fit a V8 properly, it's not a 5 minute job.
I've got some pics of a few other early Holdens with various engines in them but i don't have them here, but i can get them if you're interested. (i won't post them in this thread though, i think I've clogged it up enough as it is).
Yes, i did the steering conversion with the CRS front mount rack kit. I have only tried to use the rear mount rack once and there wasn't enough room for a standard HQ sump, you would need to cut heaps out of the sump to get the rack in. So, from then on i've stuck with the front mount rack which works quiet fine but you lose a bit of steering lock over the steering box, but it's hardly noticeable. Also has a 3/4 chassis kit, which really strengthens the car up no end.
With the exhaust, yes you get heaps better clearance with the pipes out the guards. The problems with going down through the rails is that the pipes really hug the starter motor and the block & sump, the starter is a bastard to get in and out that way, but out through the guards it just bolts straight in. IMO, out through the guards is definately the way to go on an early Holden.
For brakes, it's running VN V8 front calipers and rotors (CRS conversion kit) and VN rear discs & calipers on a shortened VN Borg Warner diff (cut & shortened by me) with a modified Gemini booster and XB Falcon master on the firewall. I've used this set up quiet a few times on early Holdens and it works very well. The booster & master is a bit of messing around to fit but it's definately worth the effort.
Make no mistake, it's a lot of work in an early Holden to fit a V8 properly, it's not a 5 minute job.
I've got some pics of a few other early Holdens with various engines in them but i don't have them here, but i can get them if you're interested. (i won't post them in this thread though, i think I've clogged it up enough as it is).
I have my HR on here as well you can post them on there if you like, the diff is the next thing on my list of things to do, is shortening a VN diff something someone like myself who is ok with the spanners and mig welder, might be capable of doing? or does it need the axles to be balanced etc, I can get a diff from up here at one of the wreckers no worries, and wouldnt mind doing it myself, or at least do what I can, with things like the booster etc, do you sell them like as a kit to bolt in? Do you have much in the way of spare parts for the HRs?
