1983 VH Commodore V8 Conversion

[Zeussy]

*truth is, it was the boys showers*


SHHHHH!

The deal was, "I didn't see you, if you didn't see me..."

:rofl2:

Just get ari to come over to yours and give it a tune up for you Although, he'd probably try and put a quaddy back on it

 

[ari666]

3.5 turns should be about right as long as you are talking 180 degree turns. if your talking 360 degree itll be running really rich. out of the box they come set at 3 turns out.

sounds like your running your timing too far retarded. have you set the timing first before hitting the mixture screws? 10 degrees should be pretty safe. once you done that, set the idle speed screw so you get 850-900 RPM in 'D'. i usually turn both mixture screws in till they [gently] bottom out then unscrew 2 turns. the car will run rough initially, but should still start, and then you only gotta hunt in one direction for the sweet spot.

when you are on the right track you will notice your idle will increase with each turn and you will have to lower the speed screw it to maintain your 850rpm. if the idle goes too high then you wont be getting accurate vacuum readings.

also, what sort of vac reading are you getting? 8 inches, 10 inches, 14 inches? is it fairly stable or does it jump around like a mofo.

 

[Sabbath']

3.5 turns should be about right as long as you are talking 180 degree turns. if your talking 360 degree itll be running really rich. out of the box they come set at 3 turns out.

Im talking full turns

sounds like your running your timing too far retarded. have you set the timing first before hitting the mixture screws? 10 degrees should be pretty safe. once you done that, set the idle speed screw so you get 850-900 RPM in 'D'. i usually turn both mixture screws in till they [gently] bottom out then unscrew 2 turns. the car will run rough initially, but should still start, and then you only gotta hunt in one direction for the sweet spot.

The timing should be fine, set it a couple of weeks ago, should i be worrying about adjusting all 4 corners or just the two primary screws for now?

when you are on the right track you will notice your idle will increase with each turn and you will have to lower the speed screw it to maintain your 850rpm. if the idle goes too high then you wont be getting accurate vacuum readings.

also, what sort of vac reading are you getting? 8 inches, 10 inches, 14 inches? is it fairly stable or does it jump around like a mofo.

Im getting about 10 inches, or, i was and then any sort of adjustment hasnt made a difference. The motor was just shaking to much to even get the screwdriver into the screw and no amount of compensation would keep it idling

 

[ari666]

oh ****, you have two metering blocks far out man, you sure you wanna be using that carby? two metering blocks means you will have to set up 2 powervalves. anyways you need to set each screw the same, so what you do on one, you do on all 4.

great. now we need to figure out what powervalve you need for the secondarys... unless you plan on blocking it off and using bigger jets? i would. saves a lot of dicking around.

so best start from the start:

turn all the screws in till they [gently] bottom out. then unscrew each one 3 turns this time. (half turns, so 540 degrees) get it started and running stable. make sure your vacuum advance hose is disconnected* set idle in drive @ 900 rpm, set base timing to 10 deg btdc and it should start running properley. when you get it running reasonable, turn it off, turn all the screws in then out 2 turns (360 degrees) start the car, raise the idle if necessary to stop it stalling, turn one 45 degrees, then turn all the same, stop look at the guage for 3 seconds, watch the fluctuations and guess the middle. so if its going from 8in to 12in then memorise 10inches. stop turn all 4 screws out 45 degrees, then watch the needle. repeat.

*make sure you are using ported vacuum for the dizzy vac advance, there will either be a port on the front of the base or on the drivers side of the front metering block. DONT USE FULL VAC!! lol, i learned the hard way with that one.

 

[Sabbath']

oh ****, you have two metering blocks far out man, you sure you wanna be using that carby? two metering blocks means you will have to set up 2 powervalves. anyways you need to set each screw the same, so what you do on one, you do on all 4.

great. now we need to figure out what powervalve you need for the secondarys... unless you plan on blocking it off and using bigger jets? i would. saves a lot of dicking around.

so best start from the start:

turn all the screws in till they [gently] bottom out. then unscrew each one 3 turns this time. (half turns, so 540 degrees) get it started and running stable. make sure your vacuum advance hose is disconnected* set idle in drive @ 900 rpm, set base timing to 10 deg btdc and it should start running properley. when you get it running reasonable, turn it off, turn all the screws in then out 2 turns (360 degrees) start the car, raise the idle if necessary to stop it stalling, turn one 45 degrees, then turn all the same, stop look at the guage for 3 seconds, watch the fluctuations and guess the middle. so if its going from 8in to 12in then memorise 10inches. stop turn all 4 screws out 45 degrees, then watch the needle. repeat.

*make sure you are using ported vacuum for the dizzy vac advance, there will either be a port on the front of the base or on the drivers side of the front metering block. DONT USE FULL VAC!! lol, i learned the hard way with that one.

Thanks for that, i'll look into that when i can get it to start

*RAGES* Turned it off last night after a failed tuning attempt, went out to it tonight, thing only cranks. Coil's getting hot, so im guessing im getting a spark, but cant find a clean metal surface that i can see from the cabin, or even the side of the cabin to see if i've got a spark happening. Only thing that explains why it wont fire....seriously glad it's going to the professional tuners next week, but really dont want to have to put it on a truck to get it there

 

[ari666]

pm sent, check yer inbox.

 

[ari666]

dont be giving up on me bitch!

i saw ya posting on another thread i have a 650 DP holley sitting around with a blocked off secondary metering plate if you wanna swap? in fact the 650 would prolly be a much better carb on this engine, we could swpa, but i doubt i would ever use the 750

 

[Sabbath']

dont be giving up on me bitch!

i saw ya posting on another thread i have a 650 DP holley sitting around with a blocked off secondary metering plate if you wanna swap? in fact the 650 would prolly be a much better carb on this engine, we could swpa, but i doubt i would ever use the 750

Haha, what was i posting? Cant remember

Not giving up, going to give it a fresh head tomorrow, will keep what you said in the PM in mind, but will rope the girlfriend in im sure to do the key cranking. Then may have another go at tuning it, depending how the morning session goes. I'll keep the carb in mind, will talk to the guys at the real tuners during the week and see what they say after chucking it on the dyno then im sure if i do decide to change we can come to some kind of financial arrangement.

Stay tuned for more rantings

 

[Sabbath']

So...bought one of these today...

Hella Australia Onlne Catalogue


Didnt use it though.

 

[ari666]

lolwut? .