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1999 VS SIII S 5.0 Ute

whiskeytango

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Never seen that one before, they are a chunky piece of metal.

You could probably weld it back up then grind it back smooth again but I'd try and get a replacement from a wrecker or marketplace etc for peace of mind.
There wouldn't be a single wreckers with a 304 in it for a 1,000kms around me lol. I also have no welder :(

On another note, how do you go about getting the #7 cylinder valve springs off? Do I have to take the booster out? There's no way I can get my spring compressor on them and turn the head.

I actually had a similar issue with a 6cyl blue motor cam plate....The top bolt hole was broken...

I found a replacement by ringing around a few engine reconditioners.....Being an old blue motor (red and blacks are identical with this plate), not many places stocked them.....But considering your engine is newer than my old blue, it should be that hard to find one locally....
That's a good idea! I will call every engine builder around tomorrow. Maybe they can put me onto a machinist who can cut me out a new one...

I ordered a new chain today. Probably take a week or 2 with the post as they didn't have express option. **** happens I can wait.
 
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EYY

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As for spring compressor you should be able to get away with a lever type compressor with the limited access. They anchor off the rocker bolt boss and you push the lever to relieve the spring pressure from the valve stem.
 

whiskeytango

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As for spring compressor you should be able to get away with a lever type compressor with the limited access. They anchor off the rocker bolt boss and you push the lever to relieve the spring pressure from the valve stem.
PM sent.

Yeah I've seen some online but they're not readily sold.

I did just find one on a random shops list in town so I'll have a look tomorrow. Hopefully they have one otherwise I'll have to order one cause I have no interest in removing the booster.
 

someguy360

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I had to pull the booster to get 7's springs out even with the lever type, there just wasn't quite enough room to do it comfortably.
 

Timbo

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Hey I used this type all you do is take the black plastic handle off and you can put a spanner over the top . No need to touch booster ..
 

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whiskeytango

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Good news this morning!

Called an engine builder as advised on here. The first one I called had his own engine that was sitting there and sold me the cam retainer. It was $50 but whatever it's done and I have it. Still thanks heaps to EYY for the offer! I would have jumped on it and paid you the same regardless if no one had one.

Picked up one of those bar pullers for $15 and with some persuasion got both of the #7 springs off and on. I wouldn't recommend using one unless there's no other option as they're just plain **** house. Saying that so was the Toledo one but I got them all done so all good.

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One more conundrum is as below. I assume I can just use a smaller washer as the cam pin is longer than the original.

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This is the gap I used to get the cam through.

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Now I have the retainer, this weekend I will setup the valvetrain and covers and wait for the timing chain so I can just swap that and reassemble everything else.
 

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Deuce

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Yours didn't have the fuel pump cam on it? Takes up the extra room on that pin. But obviously only needed on carby motors.
Any instructions about it with the cam?
 

someguy360

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Yours didn't have the fuel pump cam on it? Takes up the extra room on that pin. But obviously only needed on carby motors.
Any instructions about it with the cam?

Only 1 of my 3 engines have had the fuel pump eccentric on it. That being said both my aftermarket crane cams dowel pins have been the same as OEM.

I don't see a huge issue with putting shims behind it as long as you use high tensile stuff and it doesn't make the bolt hit the timing cover as theres not much clearance there.

If it was me I'd have been shortening the pin on the cam.
 
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