2007 VE V8 Radiator top tank busted

[Rajesh Koothrappali]

This seems quite common from this thread but it's the first I've heard of it after owning 5 different VEs (current one included). Why wouldn't they do a recall on it?

 

[phillmac]

Because the plastic is not breaking for 70,000km or so. Was a good bet and recalls cost most of the mony saved. Plastic tanks suck.

 

[Wilson91]

Thanks everyone for the tips. Ended up getting a genuine one just to be safe.. Seems like this is happening to a few people!

 

[Marco_VESS]

Happened to me on Saturday; like everyone else has described, the connector broke off which caused coolant to spray everywhere under the bonnet and an engine overheat warning on the dash.

(Edit: I might add that the original lasted seven years and 191,000km so the failure on mine was much later than many others in this thread).

 

[PhantomV]

Hi Guys, one thing that came to me later (after Holden replaced it for me) is that the engine mounts were broken (which I complained about the thunk) and this would have put more stress on the top hose joint. So if it happens to you also check your mounts are OK.

 

[Len.53]

losing water

Hi Guys, one thing that came to me later (after Holden replaced it for me) is that the engine mounts were broken (which I complained about the thunk) and this would have put more stress on the top hose joint. So if it happens to you also check your mounts are OK.

Hi guys. My 2007 SSV did the same thing as everyone else's the other week. Only noticed a problem when the overheating warning came up on the dash. Luckily I was in a servo at the time & just turned it off. I just installed a new after market radiator & replaced the hoses & hose clamps too. New radiator cap today. Problem is its been a week & the car is losing roughly 500-600mls of water when driven for up to 30mins. Have had the car tested fir a blown head gasket, hot & cold chemical tests done on the radiator, a compression test done on the motor & told the motor is fine. Just had the cooling system checked & it is holding pressure. Not seeing any water on the ground. Anyone else had this problem?

 

[Len.53]

Happened to me on Saturday; like everyone else has described, the connector broke off which caused coolant to spray everywhere under the bonnet and an engine overheat warning on the dash.

(Edit: I might add that the original lasted seven years and 191,000km so the failure on mine was much later than many others in this thread).

Mine did exactly the same thing as yours, warning light too. But now after replacing the radiator I seem to either be losing water somewhere or there is a pressure leak somewhere in the system as when the car is driven short distances & coolant level checked the coolant has to be topped up. I have replaced the radiator cap, both hoses & even the thermostat. I'm not losing water onto the ground. Had the heads checked via chemical test (hot & cold), a compression test done on the cylinders by a mechanic as as well as buying tools & testing myself, the cooling system pressure tested by the same mechanic (over night) as well as a radiator repaier & all come up as being ok. Got me stuffed.

 

[mine2007]

It's a Holden, do what I did. Stick that bit back on with Plastex put the hose back on with a cerclip and it works, but I do have a another rad Justin. The core is the same weather you have V6 or V8 as the manufacture in Brazil only list the core for a VE Omega(V6)...Cut the crap GM.

 

[WMCaprice07]

Hi All,
Just replaced my radiator for the same problem on the weekend @ 85000k. Im worried about an air lock occurring in the block. Ive heard there are bleed screws but cant find them... I undid the top overflow hose and it took at least 10.5L of coolant but Im worried about it. To top it off now I have a check engine light (I think its something to do with disconnecting the air box and related sensors.) WTF? On top of all this, I have the famous A/C belt that keeps coming off. So I changed the bracket (common problem) while the radiator was out... Local dealer gave me the wrong bracket so now I have to take it off again and swap it.... What a bitch of a job.... anyway.... is my engine light and air lock worth worrying about. Im considering disconnecting the negative lead on the battery to see if the check engine light resets. (ive heard this works) Any info appreciated.

07 WM Caprice 6L V8

 

[Joelene]

This is by now a very common problem with VE V8 radiators. Typically around the plus or minus 100,000kms mark.
There is no fix for it other than a new radiator. If you buy the genuine you are looking at around $500 - $550 and $55 for 5L coolant.
Aftermarket start around $200 but don't know what you are getting. The important thing is the genuine fits and clips for auto trans hoses are supplied. Everything else you swap off the old radiator. The problem is fatigue. The inlet becomes soft and eventually breaks off. The bleed hose on the front does the same.
Without going into detail if you remove, air intake, fan unit and disconnect aircon condensor, auto trans hoses, the radiator lifts out. The whole job will take a novice around 5 hours. 3 out, 2 in. Install surprisingly is faster than removal because you will know what you are doing.
Bank on radiators and water pumps giving up about 100,000kms nowadays.