2009 Holden Calais EVAPORATOR

[Pommiejackaroo]

It is probable that my evaporator is freezing up as symptoms are that it works until the outside temperature reaches 30 degrees plus then it suddenly cuts out. Switching it off for ten minutes + fixes it. A/C works great including good fan force until it heats up and then stops--(just when you need it most!)
So what is involved to fix it? Where is the evaporator? What is it likely to cost in parts and labour that I need budget for.
I am in Queensland Australia. Anybody recommend an honest mechanic--or is that the same as no honest politician?
Thanks in advance. Paul

 

[h8tensv6]

I did have this same problem with my sv6 09 model. When it happened, the pipe from the compressor to the firewall would freeze up causing same symptoms. Holden told me it was a faulty Tx valve which they charged me $120 with gas to fix. Fast forward 18 months and mine has started doing it again. I read about the evaporator icing up and went to Holden about it but they didn't want to know about it saying it wasn't the problem. They want me to put it in and they will see if they can find what's wrong while raping and piledging my wallet.
I found a PDF with info about doing the evaporator sensor and was going to do it myself. When I find it I will post the link.

 

[h8tensv6]

https://www.aaen.com.au/old/ADAIR AC TECH TIPS.pdf

This is the one I found and will be doing myself.

 

[MYVESSV8]

how long has it been playing up (have you had the car long) was it working ok previously, may be as simple as low on gas too

 

[Pommiejackaroo]

Thank you for your replies and unselfish sharing guys.
I have had the car since new and had the car at Holden 2-3 times a year with the A/C It wasn't till the guarantee ran out that they stopped being interested in fixing anything--which always worked intermittently.
I have changed the air filter and cabin filter, no tools for checking fuses or relays, cannot properly tell if the clutch is working but am told that because it works ok most of the time then it is not a gas problem per se.
Whilst under the bonner today I noticed a little matchbox sized plastic box behind the fuse box with a red light on?????
I also noticed a 'clicking' noise-somewhat like a spark plug arcing at breakneck speed. Is this a plug, a tappet, something else?
I have only done under 150000 ks and maintained it regularly.
Whatever the problem I have not the tools nor mechanical aptitude to fix it myself where regassing or technical know-how is needed. I do not mind paying a f air and reasonable cost for parts and labour but at 68 years old I have been around long enough to discover that mechanics are either coerced into squeezing the customers wallet or know they can tell us anything or cheat us. I would love to find an honest man.
Having a better idea of what is precisely wrong will help me determine if the selected mechanic is having me on or is honest. Knowing what time may be involved helps me see if the job is being padded--while working on another car in 'my time'.
Yes the air/con was working one minute and it was only when the outside the car temperature rose to 30 degrees plus that it suddenly stopped working. ONLY by switching it off will it eventually work again. Sugesting time to defrost I am told.
So guys that is where I am at and big temps due this month and next In Queensland. HElp

 

[MYVESSV8]

got pics of this box

 

[RiCeY]

There is revised evap temp sensor (comes as a complete hvac harness) and software to prevent evap ice up condition. Was a common issue with VE.

 

[Pommiejackaroo]

End result for now is that-- Took it to Air con specialist. They refilled the gas and then, get this!
They sold me two $25 clamps to cut off the hot water system.
To be fair, by the time i drove there the vents on the passenger side and rear seating was on extreme heat
and yet the drivers side was cold. Weird!
Result over two days--is that it works.. Test will be tomorrow when I have to drive several hundred
kilometres pulling a 26 foot caravan in over 30 degrees.
Now the cutting off of the hot water system is obviously a temporary fix and I am supposed to now take it to an
auto-electrician for a full analysis. They say the HW tap is behind the dash and will cost heaps in labour so were doing me a favour.
I have ordered an under the dash plug in (OBD 2) that will diagnose all problems and give possible solutions.
So Ricey is your suggestion expensive, who would do it, can it be done by oneself without special equipment?
THANKS EVERYONE FOR YOUR INTEREST AND HELP. Great forum and group.

 

[RiCeY]

There is no heater tap, the coolant is always flowing through the heater core and temperature is controlled by an air mix door which either directs air through the heater core, the evaporator or both to get desired temp. Sounds like you possibly have an actuator issue as well. Are there any clicking noises behind the dash when you turn IGN on? Try an actuator reset, press and hold rear demist button for ten seconds or till you hear all the actuators start to move. Actuator issues will set trouble codes but won't turn any warning lights on on the dash. Reading codes will give more information and help properly diagnose the issue. Know that most cheaper scan tools only read engine and transmission codes, not other modules such as the HVAC module which will store these codes.

The harness you could probably replace yourself but programming would need to be done by a Holden dealer. As for cost I'm not sure what they retail for.

 

[RiCeY]

Also test the recirc door by turning blower fan on full, then change from fresh to recirc, if the air coming out doesn't increase in pressure the recirc door is broken, this can affect air mix doors, zone doors etc. You can confirm by popping the clips out of the passenger side section of the plenum at the base of the windscreen and look down into the recess. You'll see a leaf screen, pull that out. If you can move the recirc door behind the leaf screen open and closed its broken.