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304 Knock Sensor

whiskeytango

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Yeah think knock sensor & plug all the same if going wreckers...just chop decent length or wire with it...not a normal wire inside that sheathing.

Back in the day it was common to melt wire on exhaust or dudes broke clip off the sensor so Holden would sell hsv knock sensor kit that went from ecu pin & long enough to go to knock sensor...originally intended for fitting 185i memcal.

Rear seal leaks are the suck!!!! It's what prompted me to take 355 sle off the road...still think crankcase ventallation was the cause along with buzzing the thing to 6.5-7k.

TK told me just put stopleak in it...should work ok just expect it to get worse over time hopefully by then engine will be out for proper fix...lasted a year as small drip then turned to spraying driver's extractor & smokeshow after a 'spirited' test drive.

So I cant just crimp the wire together if I get one? I need the whole length? What's so special about it cause that's a bitch.

Yeah mine was already making the exhaust smoke just thought it was the manifold. I'm almost done with it to be honest. I'll deal with it next year and do it properly when I have patience and time.
 

woteva

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Could you not unpick the plug and fit a new plug only?
Then you don't need to join or run the wires.
There is only 1 wire, not sure if the plug connector bit can be swapped ?
 

gtrboyy

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Yeah can unpick the pin out of ecu loom plug with ground down nail...think one of the peeps from here put up yt clip how to do it or it was on pcm site.

Anyway can be done 'cos I copied the idea years ago & done it to a few cars in that time.

Also can chop wire & twist together then heatshink + slip plastic sheathing cover back over it...done that as well to fix melted wiring...got the cel light off.

NFI if it twisty fix affected ecu but like most modified efi cars when add cam/rockers or anything that adds mechanical noise or resonates easier for tuner to disable that function.

Try twist & heatshrink trick...if it works do couple of doughies in front of neighbour's house to test it :)
Some stopleak in there too,might get lucky
 

whiskeytango

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I got 2 plugs off the only VR at the wreckers for free. Wired it up and went for a quick squirt. It's still missing. It's coughing and spluttering but not like popping or back firing like a miss. Just has a uneven loss of power sort of surging heaps.

It's weird that it ran great for 20kms then a totally different thing popped up than the knock sensor timing problem. It was around 32° and I was stuck in traffic so maybe the coil or ignition module just by chance started to die. Any other ideas?

Yeah mate I think I said somewhere above I found one and that was it. Just couldn't be bothered waiting for post to test if it was the cause of all of it.
I'm going to order it anyway and fit it properly so it totally rules out the problem from reoccurring. Cheers anyway.

Also thanks for all suggestions everything!
 

whiskeytango

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So I had a feeling it wasn't spark related today. Just to be sure I checked all leads where 100% on and one by one pulled them to check for a difference in idle with no luck.

Then I did the same with the injectors. I got to the second last one and boom. No change. After 2 seconds of examination I noticed the wire was a couple of mms further out than the other. I jammed it in with a screwdriver and bobs your uncle instant stable idle.

Went for a quick squirt up and down my street and it ran like a dream. I'll go for a decent drive tomorrow and see if its totally good and if the knock sensor error comes back. Regardless I'm happy that fault was a free fix.

It must have been just making contact for a good 20kms before it ever so slightly wriggled out. Crazy how such a tiny thing could have cost me hundreds if I just started replacing things without doing some basic checks.
 

gtrboyy

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It's usually something simple as the cars get older & they've been stuff like that can happen but yeah fault code check & unplug/plug sometimes will be fluke fix.

Was gonna tell go pcm site buy gear to start data-logging & cool app thing that plugs into aldl connector so you can run digital dash like obd11 cars...I've already got some of the gear just not that tech savvy yet or patient enough to really get into it yet.

Be the JC guinea pig!!!!!!!!!!!
 

whiskeytango

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I've spent most of last night and today reading about DTC 49.

One thing that came up a couple of times was a write about how the coil to ignition module wire in the VS SIII and VT 304 gets interference. It should never have been wrapped up next to the hall effects sensor in a loom. This write up never had any clear answers after it as to if it worked. But I thought I had nothing to loose so gave it a go.

I ran some 15a wire and cut and soldered them together outside of the loom. Problem solved no more error.

From what I read is that when it's triggered it reverts from sequential injection back to standard non roller injection. It happens to some cars and not others. Sometimes a new dizzy can fix it or just re rerunning the wire. Anyway mind blown. Just have to find the tacho wire and bridge it up so I can see when I hit 6k.
 

whiskeytango

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Was gonna tell go pcm site buy gear to start data-logging & cool app thing that plugs into aldl connector so you can run digital dash like obd11 cars...I've already got some of the gear just not that tech savvy yet or patient enough to really get into it yet.

Be the JC guinea pig!!!!!!!!!!!
I've been procrastinating about getting into PCM stuff for months but I don't have the patience at the moment. I will one day though.
Thanks for all the advice!
 
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