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304 rebuild

Discussion in 'V8 Development and Modification' started by Red Man Cam, Feb 11, 2018.

  1. Red Man Cam

    Red Man Cam New Member

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    hello everyone!
    In need of some advice. I’m in Sydney, I own a VL with a 304/t700 conversion from a VP. I bought the car converted just over a year ago. I’ve bought the car for a reliable cruiser. It still starts first time every time. Goes ok for what it is and being stock. Though like them all I think it’s getting tired.
    I’m interested to find a reputable mechanic/engine builder in Sydney that is/would be interested in rebuilding the 304 to factory/blueprinted perhaps with a mild cam. I’m not after anything crazy. There’s been a few shops I’ve spoken with (I won’t mention names) that are only interested in doing it if I convert it to carby or have a big 355/383 build in which I’m not. Would love to keep it a 304 Aussie injected motor.
    Any suggestions anyone? Thanks
     
  2. gtrboyy

    gtrboyy Active Member

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    Westend are good if you want it rebuilt & to get tuned speak to Ace Performance Tuning on facebook for an idea of what cam & other specs would be suitable for what you want.

    Most shops will tell you to go crazy full package deal as it works out better for them or sometimes for what customer wants full rebuild is necessary including higher stall convertor,shiftkit or auto rebuild & diff gears etc.
     
  3. Red Man Cam

    Red Man Cam New Member

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    I’ve heard a lot of good things about westend. They do a lot of in house machinery don’t they? I’ll have a look at ace now. That’s good advice mate appreciate it!
    Hahahahaha yeah I found that. The most I think I’d do is a shift kit if that with a good time and cam
     
  4. EYY

    EYY Well-Known Member

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    Go the 355. Pretty much the same cost - that’s why the shops are pushing you towards the stroker.

    You’re buying cam/pistons/bearings etc and paying for machining of crank/block/heads anyway and will need to pay to have it balanced.

    Scat stroker crank to suit Holden rods costs $500. Compare that to the cost of having your crank machined. It may only end up costing you an extra 300-400 to have a stroker engine compared to the stock stroke 5L. Will need a tune regardless too.

    If you want a standard engine, go and buy a good runner for $500 and fit that. But the stroker will produce more torque and power, and will sound and feel better too. You don’t need to use an aftermarket manifold, but using the stocker limits high rpm power which isn’t an issue for a mild cammed engine.
     
  5. Deuce

    Deuce Super Stock

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    You can get the stock manifold extrude honed and a 70mm throttle body if you want to help get more power in the higher rpm wuth your other mods.
    Probably won't loose any if much at the low rpm either.
     
  6. Red Man Cam

    Red Man Cam New Member

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    That’s really good advice guys. Thanks for that. Come to think about it, your right with saying to go 355 bottom end as the whole engine/block is apart and being cleaned, machined etc... and after all being done having it tuned too.
    I’m just after that “tuff street car” lol it’s just finding the reliable builder to take it on, as I don’t have the space or time myself aye. I’m always cautious of rip off merchants which I’m sure you can understand.

    Can anyone tell me how to find the correct dimensions on the brakes I have? I had a mate put on second hand hub adapters on the front with second hand standard VT rotors. I’m looking to upgrade and get slotted. After speaking with DBA, he said I need to find the correct centre hole measurement to suit the hub adapters? I hope that makes sense lol
     
  7. gtrboyy

    gtrboyy Active Member

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    I normally go the other way stally/shiftkit/diff gears with airbox/memcal/exhaust but you got to do health check on engine & driveline to see if anything actually needs rebuilding or done wrong in first place.

    Pull off a wheel post pic of caliper & disc..assume it's just normal vt disc & caliper
     
  8. Red Man Cam

    Red Man Cam New Member

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    That’s very true gtrboyy, I just don’t know how healthy it really is yet
    I’ll try and get to it in a couple of days, flat out with work atm. I’ll post it as soon as I do it. Cheers for that!

    I’ve had auto meter gauges hooked up, ones oil pressure. The motor definitely doesn’t blow smoke. At idle when warm, what pressure would you guys say it should “generally” sit at? Keeping in mind it’s stock and out of a VP lols
     
  9. EYY

    EYY Well-Known Member

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    Anything over 8psi and you’re doing alright. They’ll live with less though.

    If it’s not noisy and not using more than 500ml of oil over 10,000km I’d be happy with it.
     
  10. gtrboyy

    gtrboyy Active Member

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    Yep as long as it has 10psi hot at idle with hpr30 should live long time with street duties just no silly burnouts.

    Other than that have compression test done on it..if all cylinders within 10% & it doesn't blow smoke decide on a budget.

    Start with budget d.i.y mods & give everything good service if you haven't already.

    Can make these things feel a lot faster than they actually if done right & low budget mods more fun if you do them yourself!!!
     
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  11. EYY

    EYY Well-Known Member

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    Been looking for diff gears for mine but can’t find any 3.7’s/3.9’s for cheap! They’re all $500+ just for a set of gears
     
  12. gtrboyy

    gtrboyy Active Member

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    Yeah so many dudes eventually caught on those worthless cortina & pintara/skyline diffs were worth money.

    First few diffs we got were $50 or freebies...lucked out last year got some 4.11's last year for $100 & top bloke even delivered them from Newcastle on a business trip to Sydney.

    Scumtree or FB seems to be place for cheap parts these days.

    3.45 for tight@rse performance

    3.7 for daily duties with auto

    3.9/4.11 for manual or stalled up car.

    Still like b/w diffs just starting to like M80 conversions more now for better availbility & heavy duty overkill.
     
  13. Red Man Cam

    Red Man Cam New Member

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    That’s good to know. It usually sits around 15psi at idle so im happy with that. I’ve got a good idea about a budget, I kinda hoping motor, box and elec around 20k when I get the chance to start, just slowing building ideas.

    What splines in your car EYY?? Diff set ups def aren’t cheap aye? You going trutrac?
     
  14. EYY

    EYY Well-Known Member

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    Mines just an m76 in a vs. Stock lsd’s are my go-to for vn-vz since they’re cheap. Even a loose stock lsd stops them from singling around corners or hard takeoff. The torque lock centres look like good value for money from mace too actually.

    My hj definitely needs an lsd, rooted stock centres for the 10 bolts are stupid prices too so tempted to go for a tru trac for that. Already got 3.55’s for it too.
     
  15. Red Man Cam

    Red Man Cam New Member

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    Hmmm interesting mate! Gee from mace engineering? They’ve got some good stuff. Bought a air box for the front right corner of the bay from them.

    Definitely do it mate! 3.55 gears and tru trac! Tru trav will last a long time too!
     
  16. Red Man Cam

    Red Man Cam New Member

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    Aye guys!
    Only just had the chance to pull a wheel of now, been absolutely flat out the last couple of weeks I hope this helps. Just looks at what correct slotted rotor to buy for the VL. As I said earlier I’ve had a mate put vt standard rotors on the front. Just looking to see what to get through DBA

    7D732FEF-9A3C-4C00-AF32-2D37B90BBE3E.jpeg 7D732FEF-9A3C-4C00-AF32-2D37B90BBE3E.jpeg A3A83797-9C51-47CC-AEF9-45FA2513E5B6.jpeg A3A83797-9C51-47CC-AEF9-45FA2513E5B6.jpeg
     
  17. harrop.senator

    harrop.senator Well-Known Member

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    If it's running vt rotors now just get slotted rotors for a vt and will bolt up exactly like the ones you have now?

    If replacing pads fit with a db1344 it's the police pack and has much more surface area then stock.
     

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