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355 VN Group A Replica

VKCOMMO

Carpark Mechanic.....
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I guess im coming over tomorrow afternoon to take a look at it..

Hatch, Its running stock rods, so Holden 5L rods..

BTW, Mischa, When I come over tomorrow, can we repaint the engine red? :p
 

383 hatch

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Buy a complete rotating assembly (crank, rods & pistons), none of your existing rotating assembly can be used. You will need to grout fill the block up to the welsch plugs and get the block clearanced at the oil pan rails and bottom of the bores to allow enough clearance for the throw of the 383 crank. The reason the block needs to be grout filled is, to get enough clearance for the 383 you will hit the water galleries.
 

stuntmanmike

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Grout filling the lower portion of the water jackets also strengthens the bottom end of the engine block by improving rigidity. Its good for main bearing areas for structural stability during harmonic resonance throughout the rev range and helps dissipate some of those nasty vibrations. It is a must for forced induction if reliability is to be high.
Glad to hear that the ProCrap crank is being binned. Shame about it causing you some headaches. Maybe make a letter box stand out of it.
The SCAT cranks are good value for a cast crankshaft. You could give Auscrank a bell if you're looking for a forged crankshaft.
Hey best of luck with the 383 upgrade. You won't be disappointed!
 

VrWagz1

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Bummer mish, another procomp success story.
 

Reaper

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383 hatch

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VKCOMMO

Carpark Mechanic.....
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It won't fit in your VP, nor your BMW nomatter how much you try.

Reaper
Yes it will.. I have lots of space in the passenger seat :p
What for? It's a piece of junk, it won't even make a good boat anchor.

Nah, Just to make it into a hat stand or something like that.. It could come in handy for my metal major project (which reminds me, Ive only got 5 weeks to do it.), especially since my 305 crank is rusty.
 

ashleysnep

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Thanks guys, yeah this crank has been ####ing me constantly. Only reason I kept it was because if I changed it I would of not got a cheap engine after all.

I did do some research on the 383 and I think ill stick to 355 and the current roating assembly. Ill give it a week or two while I have a rest from constantly working on the dam thing to try and get it ready for next weeks track day. Then ill get part sourcing and deciding wether or not im capable of putting it back together myself.

Would I need to remove the pistons to get the new crank balanced? Can I remove/install them from the bottom end without taking the heads off or just easier to take the heads off? If I have to do that Ill measure CR properly and maybe up it thru the heads.

As for cranks, was thinking SCAT?
 
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