3900 watts rms

[ti09ny]

hmmm i havent bought the amps yet but that was bout the size i wanted i could go down couple of watts nd save some money at the same time

 

[ti09ny]

i was gonna run the 3x 1300 wat amps but so far it seems like overkill for a street car so
i wanna downgrade to help my hip pocket out too
the system i want is 2x 12" dual voice coil subs
2 sets of 6.5 splits in the fornt
nd just sum 6" in the back for the passingers
i still wanna have 3 amps
wat kind of power can i have on 4 gauge without pushing it
i plan on puttin in an optuma battery but is there any difference between the red nd yellow top
nd for all of dis would an alternator upgrade be requided

 

[ti09ny]

Three runs of 4ga can carry more current than one 0ga, so you're better off how it is.

But you might want to look at the site below and see if you think 4ga is enough for 1,300Wrms... I would only use 4ga for up to 1000Wrms or so.

WIRE

thanks for that mate acording to the site 1300 watts requires a larger gaue wire so im gonna drop the wattage abit just to be safe

 

[StoneX]

I'd just go for two 1000Wrms sub amps and a decent sized 4 channel to suit your 4 speakers... Or if you prefer better sound for yourself, a big 2 channel and GOOD front speakers and run some average rear speakers off the head unit.

Red top is a starting battery, high discharge current. Yellow Top is a deep cycle, which means it doesn't mind being flattened a bit and then recharged. Unlike regular batteries which become worn out quickly. That is my basic knowledge of them. I've always used Yellow or Blue for car audio applications. Blue is the same as the Yellow but has extra terminals which can be useful when attaching heaps of wires.

No, you won't NEED an alternator. With that much current draw you are going to get voltage drop which will be visible at night when your headlights and dash lights dim to the bass but there really isn't much you can do other than have an alternator that supplies 300A+ at all rev ranges which is not possible.

 

[somefool]

What experience do you have in CA?

That is possibly the funniest information i have seen for a while.

Audio is not constant, You will not need a 300amp ( L.O.L! ) Alternator unless you want major over kill.

Me I actually am just a keen amatur, so bugger all experience besides by own setup. I was under the impression that RMS was kind of an average output for an amp. So ya learn things everyday. its a forum, i tried to help the OP with the info that i had. Turns out it was wrong.

+ I wouldhave thought that even with the urgraded power, earths ect: with the power the OP wants to push, you would still get dimming on a stocko alt.

also as u guys know your stuff, You say the Full 3900wrms output. Does that mean RMS ratings are actually the most that the amp will output? (and 'max power' is an meaningless as the ex's love) Say my kicker 300zx birthsheet has 365wrms, thats is it's upper limit? Cheers

 

[StoneX]

You will still get dimming.. It will cost thousands of dollars to get 300A+ worth of alternator or alternatorS.

Max power rating is not a measured rating, it's an estimated rating... Or in other words, completely made up!

Have a read of the site below to learn a bit about car audio and electronics.

Basic Car Audio Electronics

 

[AmmoJammo]

so what are these three 1300watt amps you wanna run?

I had a measured 3000watts in a camry with the stock battery up front, and a standard large car battery mounted near the amp, and the amp would go into protect

 

[ti09ny]

the amps i wanted were Soundstream TX1.1300D 1300W RMS Tarantula Series Class D Monoblock
but i dont want to pay shitloads of cash just to find out ima #### up sumthing in my car

 

[AmmoJammo]

what subs? and why three amps? why not just one big amp?

 

[ti09ny]

1 big amp will power at most 2 subs but if i split it off to 3 meduim size 1s i can power everything