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4l60 auto or turbo 400 for ls1

samnon

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just chasing some thoughts on which would be the better way to go, either way it'll be fully built and manualised, just wondering if anyone has had a 4l60 built and it last well? apparently there not very strong at all
 

rb26dett

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Well the T400 is stronger, but you will lose the 4th gear. If this doesnt bother you then I would personally go the T400
 

Ian Johnston

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How much power do you want to use behind it? 4L60 can be built to take a lot of power.
 

samnon

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currently got 360 hp and 866 nm torque clutch packs are definetely screwed in current gear box so may be losing power there, i'm done modding the engine for a good while now, just sorta waying up the cost and if its worth a turbo 400. been quoted 2100 to fully build the 4l60
 

Jezz1tonner

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Not sure that 2100 will get you much of a built auto.......that more sounds like a stock reco with some extras.........

Going through this at the moment and I have been quoted 3200 for a built 4L60(600HP) exchanging my current box. And that's a reputable builder.
They seem to be a gamble these 4l60e I am currently doing my third rebuild, mind you that's over five years and going from an exhaust and tune package to a cam and tune package and now I'm on forced induction so I don't think it's to bad but I don't think I could handle either the 400 or 350 boxes as one loses a gear and the other over drive.
 

samnon

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this is meant to be fully built auto everything done with stage 3 shift kit, he's just redone a mates trimatic and its gone from running 11.3 to 11.1 just from the auto change, not too sure what to do at moment i'm pretty happy with the driving of the 4l60 but just wanna build it strong once and not have to redo it over and over, been looking on b&m site, they have a 600hp one for 1900 on there obviously would have postage on top but just really undecided on which way to go with it now that motor is done.
 

enroh

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It also comes down to how you drive the car, as well as the amount of power you. If your rough on it you can destroy a "fully" built box with just a mild motor, on the other hand big power cars and cars with forced induction are out there that are powering.through relatively budget built boxes.

If you are chasing big power in the future you have a few options if you want to keep fourspeed and conveetor lockup.
Either get your box "built" by a reputable auto specialist that is going to fill your box with what he says he is or, you can upgrade to a built 4L80E which is.going to require tunnel mods, and maybe crossmember and tailshaft mods as well.
Or you can buy an expensive, built 4l60e outta the states, there are blokes over there that have built boxes with hardened.and oversized input shafts, which is the weakest link in the box.
 

AGRSSV8

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before you go down the 4l80e path do your research and have plently of $$$... your trans tunnel would be fine. You would need to modify the tailshaft yoke, crossmember, possibly your exhaust, get it fully manualised or run an aftermarket PCM, with Custom loom to suit. Thats all before you pay for the box, stally, flexplate and dust cover in the first place. Plus the box is normally for large SUV's and 4wd's so you need to get the 1st and 2nd gear ratios changed on top of beefing it up for high HP. I know from experience....
 

SirNemesis

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before you go down the 4l80e path do your research and have plently of $$$... your trans tunnel would be fine. You would need to modify the tailshaft yoke, crossmember, possibly your exhaust, get it fully manualised or run an aftermarket PCM, with Custom loom to suit. Thats all before you pay for the box, stally, flexplate and dust cover in the first place. Plus the box is normally for large SUV's and 4wd's so you need to get the 1st and 2nd gear ratios changed on top of beefing it up for high HP. I know from experience....

If you know from experience, you'd also know that the trans tunnel won't be fine. You need to hammer the top of the tunnel in slightly, and cut a section out of the rail for electrical connector clearance.
 
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