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4L60E tranny fluid level

sydsider

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One wonders why? There are so many grades on the market you really don't need to be doing any quasi bucket science in the garage. The manufacturers have already done it for you, they call it 5w40
 

sydsider

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Interesting reading the varying experiences.

I just put the 250mls of Penrite Dex 6 back in as i mentioned a few days ago i would if it was still playing up, cause it must be a tad under now after removing approx 1.5 litres or more over the cross hatch, and the box is behaving very close to normal again. It must have been close to the optimum level before i syringed the last 250mls. It was changing like crap until i put it back in today. I didnt look at the dipstick, knowing it must be pretty close to the optimum level and i just went off how it changes while driving to get a rego check. Its needs to be within 200mls of the optimum level or theres all sorts of issues. Id suggest any future heartache and expense may be avoided by having the correct tranny oil level.

It was going to the tranny boys lol.
Save some cash with the correct approach it seems
Thats gearbox specialists for the young players, not men dressed as women.


But it seems pretty good now, but ill will keep an eye on it to see how it goes.
I replaced the engine mounts last week.
Had to for rego.
Car was shaking badly.
I pulled out the PCV valve this morning and the top was gummed up.
Inner passages seemed clear.
I could look straight through the 2 holes
I drilled them out to 5/64 and for the centre hole 7.64, cause i was getting a fair bit of oil in the ribbed air pipe.
I dont know what difference it would make at such high kms.
Its done 285000 but man its a machine.
Idles perfectly and goes hard as.

Now its time to deal with the noisy air con compressor pulley bearing and the fogging tail lights and front right headlight and rear right brake lamp blowing for the second time in as many months.

Then theres what looks like an oil leak from the right side intake manifold gasket that runs and drips extremely slowly under the sump. Theres never any oil in the driveway.
These are all issues from the previous owner and theres some minor ones ive repaired or replaced since.

Complete neglect.
 

greenacc

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You have to use good quality globes in the tail lights. Philips or osram. Made in France type stuff.
The 10 cent ones made in sweat shops that most places sell don't last 5 minutes. If you ask at Autobahn they usually have a few decent ones hiding under the counter. Or check ebay you can buy a 10 pack of Philips that will last you 20 years.
 

sydsider

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You have to use good quality globes in the tail lights. Philips or osram. Made in France type stuff.
The 10 cent ones made in sweat shops that most places sell don't last 5 minutes. If you ask at Autobahn they usually have a few decent ones hiding under the counter. Or check ebay you can buy a 10 pack of Philips that will last you 20 years.
Thats exactly what i was reading online. I went for a rego check today and they told me that the left rear bulb was blown and it I only changed it about a month ago with one i had for years. I had a pair i bought from Supercheap, and i put one in. He was going to pass it anyway. i will see how long this one lasts and will keep in mind to get the Phillips.

Thanks.
 

Fu Manchu

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1656487100458.gif
 

sydsider

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Its changing the same as always. 1-2 clunking when cold but fine when warmed up.
I know that for sure, now that its close to the correct oil level.
A common problem on U.S forums it seems.
And when warmed up, it gears down when it shouldnt, when i go over a speed hump or slow down to take a corner and once completed, it stays low too long then changes. Delayed up gear.
It gears down on approach as usual, and when the maneuver is completed, it seems to stay in low gear too long when it shouldnt. Its only 2-3 seconds . It shouldve up shifted earlier. I had a VS commo for 12 years and it never did this even with nil servicing. Makes me feel like going back to a VS.

Doesnt help when cars are neglected of course.
Probably wouldve been fine if serviced regularly on time.

Maybe changing the Dex6 for Dex3 with a complete flush from starters would sort it out?
I serviced it a year ago.

Or would that supposedley dislodge some gunk in the box that would block the tranny up and destroy it?
 

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Are you sure you have the right dipstick in the trans

I know 4l60e have shallow and a deep pans, mine has a deep pan which has "deep pan only" (or something like that) written on the dip stick, shallow pans have different dipsticks

I have no idea if your trans has different pan depths options

Is your pan OEM or aftermarket?

When was your trans last serviced?

Did they use the correct filter, as with the different pans, they use different filters, a shallow pan filter will not sit down deep enough in a deep pan which could, may, result in it sucking air???, maybe....
 

losh1971

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Do these have a TPS like earlier models? The symptoms you are having are a lot like TPS issues I had on the VR.
 

sydsider

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Are you sure you have the right dipstick in the trans

I know 4l60e have shallow and a deep pans, mine has a deep pan which has "deep pan only" (or something like that) written on the dip stick, shallow pans have different dipsticks

I have no idea if your trans has different pan depths options

Is your pan OEM or aftermarket?

When was your trans last serviced?

Did they use the correct filter, as with the different pans, they use different filters, a shallow pan filter will not sit down deep enough in a deep pan which could, may, result in it sucking air???, maybe....
Ive had it for a year so im not sure what was done beforehand. But they seem original.
I serviced it and its the correct filter.
Its not a deep pan.
These are common problems on videos on Youtube.
 
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