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4l65e / 4l60e 3/4 clutchs?
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Slap
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Super early and another sleepless night. Ive come across a couple of different secondhand autos.
What is a fair price for an ls auto?
Because mine is late vz will it tanty over the extra input shaft speed sensor , if i use an earlier box? And what sorta tanty? My bro had his vz v6 4l60e replaced and it throws codes for that sensor and recons it spi s up easier and is a bit wild in its behaviour.
How early can i go....99vt ls1 box or vx vy ,vz?
Anything else i should try b4 i rip it outa the car?
I wish it was just low fluid, praying for a chance its somthing cheap or easy. I realy just trying to understand how it died. Maybe too much rpm during change . Was about 6200-6400 3rd to 4th. And the fact it died in decel but was ok accelerating.
Going over the replies im a bit confused...
I have D 1 2 R but loose forward motion when its changing to 3rd.
Someone said it the sprag but contradictivley no motion in D was said too.
Someone wanna sell me an auto and make it easier bahahaha
What is a fair price for an ls auto?
Because mine is late vz will it tanty over the extra input shaft speed sensor , if i use an earlier box? And what sorta tanty? My bro had his vz v6 4l60e replaced and it throws codes for that sensor and recons it spi s up easier and is a bit wild in its behaviour.
How early can i go....99vt ls1 box or vx vy ,vz?
Anything else i should try b4 i rip it outa the car?
I wish it was just low fluid, praying for a chance its somthing cheap or easy. I realy just trying to understand how it died. Maybe too much rpm during change . Was about 6200-6400 3rd to 4th. And the fact it died in decel but was ok accelerating.
Going over the replies im a bit confused...
I have D 1 2 R but loose forward motion when its changing to 3rd.
Someone said it the sprag but contradictivley no motion in D was said too.
Someone wanna sell me an auto and make it easier bahahaha
EYY
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How often did you shift at 6400? Every now and again they can deal with it a little but not often.
They’re rated to 6000rpm by gm powertrain division as standard but most experts say you need to keep it under 5500 for them to live - it’s rpm that does damage to them, not so much torque.
As far as I understand, centrifugal force pushes the oil to the outside of the drum hard enough that it works against the piston return spring pressure and moves the pistons which engages two gears at once and fries the clutch. The fix is stronger springs and new clutchpack. Old piston seals can also mean the clutch isn’t being engaged properly and they fry that way.
I rebuilt my own with some decent bits and it cost me around $1k. Mine was cammed and I revved it to 6500-6700 multiple times a day. Only kept the car for 20,000km so longevity wasn’t a major concern but it had a Histall, shift kit and 3/4 clutch springs which meant it could deal with the high rpm.
If you’re going to be driving it like that, invest the cash in the trans you already have.
They’re rated to 6000rpm by gm powertrain division as standard but most experts say you need to keep it under 5500 for them to live - it’s rpm that does damage to them, not so much torque.
As far as I understand, centrifugal force pushes the oil to the outside of the drum hard enough that it works against the piston return spring pressure and moves the pistons which engages two gears at once and fries the clutch. The fix is stronger springs and new clutchpack. Old piston seals can also mean the clutch isn’t being engaged properly and they fry that way.
I rebuilt my own with some decent bits and it cost me around $1k. Mine was cammed and I revved it to 6500-6700 multiple times a day. Only kept the car for 20,000km so longevity wasn’t a major concern but it had a Histall, shift kit and 3/4 clutch springs which meant it could deal with the high rpm.
If you’re going to be driving it like that, invest the cash in the trans you already have.
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Thanks for the info.
I have punished it here and there mostly 1st to second and some 2nd to 3rd but not regular and 3rdto 4th flat change was my first time doin it.
Ill have to loose some wieght from my foot and keep it under 5500rpm.
Even though above 6k is where the l98 seemed betters the l76 when chasing down my mates l76 manual crewman.
It had a lil slip in 3rd when i bought it last year, i recon it was on its way considering its at 300k .
On a brighter note i found a bloke willing to refurbish with warranty , remove and install for about 1500 localy. The other options he gave me were
1800 for a full reco change over
1200 refurbish but i remove and install.
1100 second hand diy.
My back and time makes 300 removal and install seem excellent.
Take it to him moza.
They are located around moe in vic.
Be a slow drive there as its usualy about 45-50 mins with all gears from my place.
Hope it isnt to wet, wish me luck and thanks again to every one who chipped into the thread(s).
Ill close by sharing a vid i like.
I have punished it here and there mostly 1st to second and some 2nd to 3rd but not regular and 3rdto 4th flat change was my first time doin it.
Ill have to loose some wieght from my foot and keep it under 5500rpm.
Even though above 6k is where the l98 seemed betters the l76 when chasing down my mates l76 manual crewman.
It had a lil slip in 3rd when i bought it last year, i recon it was on its way considering its at 300k .
On a brighter note i found a bloke willing to refurbish with warranty , remove and install for about 1500 localy. The other options he gave me were
1800 for a full reco change over
1200 refurbish but i remove and install.
1100 second hand diy.
My back and time makes 300 removal and install seem excellent.
Take it to him moza.
They are located around moe in vic.
Be a slow drive there as its usualy about 45-50 mins with all gears from my place.
Hope it isnt to wet, wish me luck and thanks again to every one who chipped into the thread(s).
Ill close by sharing a vid i like.
Slap
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So I got my car back today. I didnt relise how much power was sucked from it with box wear.
It has new z pack clutch packs, soft parts ,bearings, shift kit and was freshened.
The car feels so much tighter and far more responsive to low throttle application. No slippage any more. 1-2 is a lil harsher due to higher line pressure but id rather have better pressure to help aplly the clutchs for longevity. Also sits about 1800rpm at 100kph instead of 1950...so that should help fuel consumption.
Auto boss garage in moe victoria (51261960) Did a good job I believe at a good price. $1500 with warranty and all I had to do was drive it there....in 2nd on the m1 ahaha was funny.
Good to be driving it again ...especialy after plodding around in the hiace minibus for months.
It has new z pack clutch packs, soft parts ,bearings, shift kit and was freshened.
The car feels so much tighter and far more responsive to low throttle application. No slippage any more. 1-2 is a lil harsher due to higher line pressure but id rather have better pressure to help aplly the clutchs for longevity. Also sits about 1800rpm at 100kph instead of 1950...so that should help fuel consumption.
Auto boss garage in moe victoria (51261960) Did a good job I believe at a good price. $1500 with warranty and all I had to do was drive it there....in 2nd on the m1 ahaha was funny.
Good to be driving it again ...especialy after plodding around in the hiace minibus for months.
losh1971
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$1500 installed is damn cheap. I was quoted $1500 to rebuild plus another $300 remove and refit. My converter cost me around $500 or more, can't remember exact price.
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Ok, so ive done about 10,000 k since i had the reco done and thought i should give some feedback.
1 . The car is going and chirping 1st-2nd sometimes 2nd-3rd. Doesnt show signs of slippage.
2. The rebuilder uped the line pressure witch i delt with uncomfortably due to breaking my neck on a dirt bike a week later, but left as is for longevity as he told me it will help, he did offer to lower it.
3.also being told by him dont let these boxs shift over 5k rpm as they hate it. (4l60-4l65e), ive been taking his advice .
4. Having high line pressure causing the harsh shifts seems to have impacted my decel as my research indicated.
5. Cant hold back in 1st with gearstick as it auto shifts at 2k decel into 2nd and slams back to first when under 2k on decel, this is a problem going down steep decent towing for me.
6. Wont hold decel in any gears under about 2k and just freewheels to 2k then decel kicks in.
6.Will hold decel above 2k
7. Living on mountain roads i am using brakes alot more as the car will freewheel to 110-115 on a decent.
8. Im still happy with the work and haven't bothered to tell the rebuilder yet as it was a good price and it still goes well, and realy it seems to be a common closert problem when having a shift kit installed.
9. Anybody else having decel issues after a shift kit this day and age?
10. Any miracle cure that dont involve pulling it to bits to replace a squished thingy?
1 . The car is going and chirping 1st-2nd sometimes 2nd-3rd. Doesnt show signs of slippage.
2. The rebuilder uped the line pressure witch i delt with uncomfortably due to breaking my neck on a dirt bike a week later, but left as is for longevity as he told me it will help, he did offer to lower it.
3.also being told by him dont let these boxs shift over 5k rpm as they hate it. (4l60-4l65e), ive been taking his advice .
4. Having high line pressure causing the harsh shifts seems to have impacted my decel as my research indicated.
5. Cant hold back in 1st with gearstick as it auto shifts at 2k decel into 2nd and slams back to first when under 2k on decel, this is a problem going down steep decent towing for me.
6. Wont hold decel in any gears under about 2k and just freewheels to 2k then decel kicks in.
6.Will hold decel above 2k
7. Living on mountain roads i am using brakes alot more as the car will freewheel to 110-115 on a decent.
8. Im still happy with the work and haven't bothered to tell the rebuilder yet as it was a good price and it still goes well, and realy it seems to be a common closert problem when having a shift kit installed.
9. Anybody else having decel issues after a shift kit this day and age?
10. Any miracle cure that dont involve pulling it to bits to replace a squished thingy?
EYY
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It shouldn't chirp under light to medium throttle unless you specified thats what you wanted when it was rebuilt. Set up properly, there should be a nice positive shift but shouldn't jolt the car at all or chirp tyres. Some trans 'builders' don't actually fit manufactured shift kits; there are a couple of ways to give jarring shifts without spending a cent. You may also notice a harsh change from park to drive or drive to reverse etc. The main two are as follows:
1) Mess with the pressure control solenoid inside the trans (frowned apon by professional trans builders). Apply pressure should only be increased by increasing surface area in contact with fluid (therefore force is multiplied - a corvette servo gives more apply pressure to the second gear band for example). This solenoid shouldn't be adjusted. GM pressure tables have been calculated by engineers and should be left well alone as should the pressure solenoid. The right combination of parts in the trans will deliver long service life and great performance.
2) Put spacers above accumulators to stop them from functioning. The accumulators essentially act as shock absorbers for the trans fluid when shifting between gears. No shock absorption means shafts, sunshell, drums etc can fail due to shock/fatigue.
If properly built, you should be able to rev to over 6000rpm without issue. If you want a STOCK trans to live, they shouldn't be revved over 5500 too often. Problem is, most of your power will be made from 4000-6200rpm. No point having that power if you're too scared to damage the transmission using it.
I think you need to find out what 'shift kit' was installed. Mine drove like a stock car when I wanted it to, but would hold every gear at any speed. Shifts were only firm when above 70% throttle. I used a transgo HD-2 and will buy another for my next project.