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4WDing

SV6 Matt

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4.2L TD 80 series cruiser, 1 have a 105 series Landcruiser with a 4.2L TD, and after driving mates 2.8L GU, mates 2.8L lux and a 3L Patrol, Love the power and drive of my 105 over them all.
Not sure if youd find a decent 100 series for around 10, myn was close to 20k.
But i know you could get a pretty decent 80 series for around 10k.
 

spauldj308

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What's everyone's opinion on the TF Rodeo? I know the engines are fairly bulletproof, but I'm after an opinion on the cars themselves, and their suitability for off road work.
 

Not_An_Abba_Fan

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The Rodeo is a work ute that can go off road a bit. But it all depends on what you class as off road I suppose.
 

spauldj308

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The Rodeo is a work ute that can go off road a bit. But it all depends on what you class as off road I suppose.

After a flat tray ute for work, prefer diesel for the practicality and economy. Looking at a 4x4 as I'm getting into going camping, and I'd like to go of the beaten track, so to speak.

No rock crawling or mud plugging.
 

seq4x4

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Been looking to get into it, as after i loaded the bombadore up with camping gear, i couldnt drive off the drive on a an angle without bottoming out. Been looking at SWB (as i still want something shorter then a wagon/ute) then to drop a 5L or 5.7L into it as i cant completly convert. ;) This is only because i cant keep both cars, so the 4x4 will replace the VS. Been looking at MQ and GQs (80 - 90's) as of late, but have noticed that toyota and mitsubishi do a SWB as well.
 

Not_An_Abba_Fan

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The Rodeo may be perfect for what you want then, or any similar vehicle.

seq4x4, I would go the GQ SWB, pretty much unbreakable drive line if you don't abuse it too much. I went for the GQ diffs for my Rangie, as they are probably the strongest stock diff of just about all the 4WD's on the market. (not including UniMog). The 80 series diff is an easier fit, but not as strong as the Nissan unit.

If you are going to drop a V8 in, I would go auto, less chance of breaking anything as the torque converter will act as a cushion between the engine and drive line. Just be aware that the V8 makes torque higher in the revs than say a turbo diesel, so more right foot is needed. Then you run into more chance of breakages because everything is spinning faster. Personally, TD42 turbo with intercooler will be plenty. But nothing sounds like a V8.....
 

rory

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I am also looking into a second car as a 4x4, would like it to have dual airbags and ABS if possible but not a NEED as it wont be a daily, any advice, looking at some Pajero's and some of the cheapest GU's but id like to have something that can take a beating so it really just needs to run (or not even). not looking at Rangie's (sorry NAAF) My cousin said that after doing a wheel bearing that he will never touch one again. Also looked at some Jeeps but apparently they scream unreliable and chew fuel. just really asking if there are any other suggestions that you guys wanted to point me in the direction of. Looking between 5-10k trying to keep the dollars low but I'm willing to wait and save to get the car I want. Still saving for it too so just looking for ideas really
 

Not_An_Abba_Fan

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Go with the crowd and get a GQ/GU or an 80/100 series.

I have done all four wheel bearings on my old Rangie diffs, and to be honest, they are no harder than any other. It must have been the first 4WD wheel bearing that your cousin has done then.

The Rangie was not my first choice, in fact, I was probably like everyone else and steered clear because of their reputation. Then one popped up in my price range and it was in pretty good nick, so I got it. Believe me, I copped some ribbing over it, until those people saw it in action. They are an extremely capable 4WD. They will go more places in stock form than most "built" Japanese rigs. They have their limits, as I found out, but all in all I like it. I have probably gone overboard in what I have done to it, but I enjoy getting into the really challenging stuff and opted to go the way I did purely from an ecenomic stand point. I could have strengthened the hell out of the Rangie diffs, or even gotten some Disco diffs, but both GQ diffs and all the rims cost me less than one Disco diff.

I am not a loyalist so I don't care that my car is hybrid now, I only care that it will go wear I point it without breaking (hopefully). I didn't have that confidence with the Rangie diffs.

I am not saying you should by a Range Rover, or even a Discovery, but at least consider their ability before buying. But don't buy one if you can't do the repairs and servicing yourself, people see the Land Rover badge and jack the price up. I found parts are cheaper out of the UK, even with freight.

4WD's are not a cheap hobby, they break, and they are expensive (relative to a Commodore) to modify, but gee, they are fun. I would not change my decision to buy a Range Rover after having owned it. I just love the reaction it gets when I get up something that they thought it wouldn't.
 

rory

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Go with the crowd and get a GQ/GU or an 80/100 series.

I have done all four wheel bearings on my old Rangie diffs, and to be honest, they are no harder than any other. It must have been the first 4WD wheel bearing that your cousin has done then.

The Rangie was not my first choice, in fact, I was probably like everyone else and steered clear because of their reputation. Then one popped up in my price range and it was in pretty good nick, so I got it. Believe me, I copped some ribbing over it, until those people saw it in action. They are an extremely capable 4WD. They will go more places in stock form than most "built" Japanese rigs. They have their limits, as I found out, but all in all I like it. I have probably gone overboard in what I have done to it, but I enjoy getting into the really challenging stuff and opted to go the way I did purely from an ecenomic stand point. I could have strengthened the hell out of the Rangie diffs, or even gotten some Disco diffs, but both GQ diffs and all the rims cost me less than one Disco diff.

I am not a loyalist so I don't care that my car is hybrid now, I only care that it will go wear I point it without breaking (hopefully). I didn't have that confidence with the Rangie diffs.

I am not saying you should by a Range Rover, or even a Discovery, but at least consider their ability before buying. But don't buy one if you can't do the repairs and servicing yourself, people see the Land Rover badge and jack the price up. I found parts are cheaper out of the UK, even with freight.

4WD's are not a cheap hobby, they break, and they are expensive (relative to a Commodore) to modify, but gee, they are fun. I would not change my decision to buy a Range Rover after having owned it. I just love the reaction it gets when I get up something that they thought it wouldn't.

Doubt it was his first, did 2.5 years of a mechanics apprenticeship and I know for a fact he has recently done a mq or gq patrol and didn't have any complaints. I will not write off a Rangie then, not looking to have constant repairs though. I have even considered a 60 series as a mate of mine used to have one and we used to have some wicked fun in it but have been advised against leafs... although I know that with the right gear in it leafs will go just as far as anything else... might have a look at some more 80's but I really would rather a patrol. i have looked at a couple of 3.0 patrols that have grenaded but not sure if i want to do that much as there is a lot of work in completely rebuilding an engine... a gq could be a lot of fun and go forever and have no issues but I dont know if thats really what i want when the GU's are much nicer and have a bit more safety wise... havnt looked at many 100 series but i will keep a bit more of an eye out now...
 

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Most 4WD bearings a pretty much the same, so I don't know why he would have had an issue with the Rangie bearing. The only thing to watch out for is the model, as there are two different hubs, oil bath and greaseable. The bearings are the same, but if he did an oil bath hub, then it can get messy lol.

The 3.0L GU only really has a problem from lack of maintenance. The MAF needs regular cleaning, do not use non genuine air filters in dusty conditions as once they partially block, some of them suck the sides in and the dust bypasses them and destroys the turbo. Genuine air filters don't do that. Keep the fuel filters changed rehularly as well, as they can bypass when blocked, then they stuff injectors and the fuel rail (on common rail). Same as contaminated fuel, they have a sensitive fuel pump, and if any water getis into it, it will die (common rail again) and the fuel system si about $5K to replace - pump, rail and injectors. The fuel rail has a pressure sensor in it, and you can't replace it on it's own, the whole rail has to be replaced. All this is from running 25 Patrols on minesites throughout the Pilbara and they were the weakest car we had out of 200+ Patrols, Hilux's, Prados, Cruisers and some Isuzu trucks.

I wouldn't go a leaf spring 4WD at all as the spring plates can hang up on rocks as they hang below the diff. Just my personal choice though. Pick the right line and they can be good.

Every car will have it's weak points and common issues, but if maintained, the problems will be less common. Most bad experiences are from vehicles with a pretty rough past, and if you can find one with good service history and parts that have been replaced when required, then you will have a good starting point. Otherwise you will be spending up big on replacing **** before you even start to build it. Don't buy the first thing you find, have a good look around and buy the best within you budget. We made that mistake buying the 80, it was already a turbo (Safari), but it had a cracked head that didn't show itself until it was at 110 on the highway. The yard my wife bought it from were good about it though, they paid for just about everything, they gave us the option of having them recon the head at their cost, or we pay for a new one. The car got a new head and they paid the labour and all other costs. So far so good, it's been 18 months and it's still going strong. A few niggly things to fix, but nothing major. (Touch wood).
 
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