Yeah, but it should throw a code shouldn't it? And it's only when it's a hot day, the car can be stone cold on its first start at lunch but if it's a hot day it plays up. Morning and late afternoon when it's cooler its not an issue, and doesn't happen at all on cooler days lol Cheers, Chris Sent from my ST27i using Tapatalk 4
Not always....I have had plenty of issues with the VR/VS's over the years with sensors crapping it and not throwing a code. It's an odd problem I'm not sure what would cause a stone cold motor to play up from the ambient temp being a little warmer
Haha, your telling me! I'll try parking in the shade tomorrow, but it's not a permanent fix. I guess if I can't sort it by winter I'll have until next summer to sort it Sent from my ST27i using Tapatalk 4
Haha, figured it out. I drove it home from work this morning (7am) no issues. Even shut it down and re started at the 40km mark to ensure it wasn't engine heat causing the issue. I started it this after noon (38' day) and it started in limp mode. I opened the bonnet and put the sprinkler on it for 1/2 hour, getting the ambient temp down to 24', no change. So I started thinking the inside of the car is like a sauna still. I pulled the hot to touch Ecu out, and placed it in the fridge for 15 min. Plugged it back in, bingo!!! No engine light! I've tried disconnecting it before and it made no difference, but cooling it down did the trick. I'm now assuming I'm up for a new ecu? cheers, Chris
Well I fitted a new ecu that I got for a bargain $29 (no memcal) off eBay and the problem is sorted I haven't had time to do much else. Still can't decide on rims, though I know I'm definitely going aftermarket as the factory rims I like (sigs, internationals etc.) are either too hard to find or to pricy for what they are. In the mean time I've painted the wheels on it silver. I'm also starting to look for a boot that didn't have a spoiler on it and will be buying a new front bar. I ran the springs past Kings and found it has super lows front and rear, so I think my next mod will be a set of ssl for the rear to get it sitting level, what do you think? Cheers, Chris
You can also get a lip spoiler on the boot for these. Doesn't stand out as much as the spoiler like you have now does but just gives it a bit of a different look, I like them anyways and would look good on your car IMO. I've thought many times of putting 1 on my VR SS http://forums.justcommodores.com.au...e-1993-1997/126619-vr-statesman-boot-lip.html
Thanks mate, they look good. I found them on eBay for $165. Not sure whether to find a new boot or weld up the holes and re-paint this one? Cheers, Chris
If you can find 1 in the same colour as yours with no spoiler and then fit the boot lip, I reckon that would be the cheapest way to go. Depends on how much you pay for a boot and then compare to having current boot holes filled, lip fitted and then repainted
So I've done a few small things, mostly mechanical but I've also popped some new (to me ) rims on and I got rid of the rear wing. Next up I'll be replacing the front bar and putting ssl's in the rear to get it sitting a little lower in the back. It rides heaps better on the 16's, not sure on the red wall inserts, will probably swap them out for white wall inserts. Cheers, Chris
VS Calais wheels are awesome, I have them on mine, gotta get them polished man, they will look even better! (check out my stato's thread) and yeah I went back to 16's as riding on country roads the 18's were too harsh. Walls look good too, I am thinking of a thick white wall for mine. Keep up the good work!
Thanks mate. Yeah the roads here are crap, but even as low as it is it now rides really well, while still handling heaps better than a stock car. Yeah they need a polish, there is a few scratches in the clear (not the rim itself though) so I need to get motivated to do it lol. The red walls are growing on me, I'll leave it for now and see what happens. Cheers, Chris
Yeah thats the main thing that got me to polish mine....my clear was chipping/cracking. So paint stripped the clear off and hit the wheels with hours of wet sanding then hit with the buff (if you don't have a good polisher at home, commercial polishers will do them pretty cheap)
What grit paper did you wet sand with? Also are the polishers you put on your drill any good? Might be a good job for this weekend, my weekends are 7 days so I can attack it slowly Cheers, Chris Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Stripped the clear with paint stripper (simply brush on wipe off, may take a few applications to get it all off), then 800 grit, 1500 grit, then 2000 grit to remove scratches. (this takes a few hours per wheel) The first time I did it I used a small polishing wheel from bunnings but it left horrible streak marks everywhere (I have heard the mothers powerball does an ok job for a drill based polisher though), if you are going to use a drill use a 240v power drill with variable speed (Polishing should be done on a lower speed, not flat out), not a battery one, you will loose consistency and be constantly charging batteries in the time needed to do it with an 18v I have since purchased a variable speed buffer to detail the car and did it again using a 180mm buff pad which is almost the entire face of that wheel that is going to be polished which did a much smoother job with no marks or uneven spots. I also used Meguiars All Metal polish (brilliant stuff) Once the wheels are properly polished I recommend getting them 2k clear coated (if you don't have the means of doing this, pay someone else to) because if you leave them uncoated the weather really gets to the raw metal quickly. for instance while my wheels aren't sealed I can't go to drive through or self serve carwashes because the chemicals get on the wheels and instantly stain them....only fresh water can be used on them and must be microfibred quickly or it will leave water stains that are hard to get off without polishing again lol...the same again goes for spray on tyre shine, if you get any degreasers or tyre shine on the raw metal, it will stain it. With mine as a weekender this isn't as much of an issue because I don't take the car out in bad whether but if yours is a daily I recommend getting them cleared if your going to polish them But the end result is definitely worth it!
That's what I was thinking. The red inserts came with the rims. I'm also thinking of shaving the rear garnish. Since I'm going to be welding the holes in the boot left by the spoiler I thought I'd shave the garnish and relocate the reverse lamps, similar to the WL. Really shocking attempt at shopping it but you get the idea. I was thinking I'd then run a high polished alloy strip across the boot and get statesman water cut into it? If it looks crap I'll still have the garnish and will only need a new boot. Cheers, Chris Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
