5.7 ltr Vy Clutch

[Purplecrewy]

I am in the process of pulling my manual box out of my SS as the slave Cylinder went. I was quoted $550.00 and feel this is a waste of money as they tell me the Slave Cylinder is a throw away part. I am into a little engineering and will fit some new seals and have them matched and noted for future referrence. I am also told that the heat build up is quite a bit inside the bell housing so i am placing some louvered ventalion covers in the bell housing. I am also running an external (easy accessable) bleeder to the out side of the bell housing for future bleeding and re-newing of fluid. Once i do the calculations and dimensions i am also thinking of cutting an access hole to remover the Slave Cylinder without removing the box which is such a stupid idea holden have done. The price of the seals will be about $15.00 and add the waste of the throw away Slave Cylinder and the labour and with my modifications i believe my labour and efforts will be worth it. If anyone is interested in the mods please give me a message.

Thanking you

Steve

 

[minux]

Why your box is out i'd reccomend a txtralia clutch, otherwise you will keep having issues

 

[Purplecrewy]

Hi minux

well i do have the after market clutch and fly wheel kit with the mods and seems to be working fine so far. Although what is the item you are talkign about (txtralia).

 

[Purplecrewy]

HI Minux
Also do you get invloved in the commodore drive days and are you from sydney.

 

[minux]

HI Minux
Also do you get invloved in the commodore drive days and are you from sydney.

Nope and nope, my car is currently off the road, so no cruises for me, undertaking quite a few heavy mods.

As for textralia clutches...

http://www.textralia.com.au/

With a rip shift they are magic

 

[Purplecrewy]

Well guys

I now have the box back in and have re-used the original Slave Cylinder. I have now got overhaul kits (seals) for the Slave Cylinder and its working fine and didnt cost me $250.00 for the new Slave Cylinder wgich Holden recommend. i have got an inspection hole now and ventalation to helpy cool the clutch area.

If anyone is interested send em an message

Steve

 

[INJSLE]

another common problem with these clutch assemblies is that the pressure plate fingers collapse, which means u cannot select a gear or get out of a gear.

 

[dynamytedave]

Does anyone know what the torque settings are for flywheel bolts on the LS1? I just lost my job and sold an EK ute I had, mainly to finance a few weeks holiday and a replacement clutch. Because I'm a cheap bastard (i was born out of wedlock(so that should clear the no swearing rule)) and I need to keep myself afloat for a few weeks, I had to get the standard GMH clutch kit. Otherwise I would have got a Tex clutch. Theres about $1000 difference between the two.
As for ripshifters, I was told by a gearbox specialist they don't really do any favours for your box. He told me if you've got a fat wad of cash, a lot of patience and don't mind replacing your box every so often, then yeah, they're mad. So I decided against that too. But I digress.
So if anyone could tell me what the torque settings are I'd be very grateful. I'm absolutely busting to take the Munro out for a rap, I haven't driven it for about 2 1/2 months. I took a job driving interstate and was lucky to be home once a week. Then the clutch went so I've been without a fix for a while. I'm having real bad withdrawls.

 

[Umai Naa!!]

Torque specs for the flywheel bolts (New ones, that is), is in two stages, in a criss-cross fashion.

Stage one: 50Nm
Stage two: 100Nm

 

[dynamytedave]

Cool, thanks heaps for that. With your reference to new bolts is it necessary to replace them?