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5w30 engine oil for a VT

D-Rich

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not all the oil runs back to sump. i've worked on engines that have sat dorment for weeks. and there is still oil pooled in the rocker gear etc.
and with the W i have seen 80W-90W hydraulic oils, so maybe the winter is an engine thing? because hydraulic oil has completely different properties to engine oil (the engineer that told me it stood for weight, happened to be a hydraulic one).
and i completely agree with exceeding the manufacturers recommended specs :)
 

purekiwi

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great info ive also wondered what the w stands for guess ya do learn ssomething new every day
 

vxcalais_01

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LS1s need 5w30 or something like that

Ecotecs are such old and loose tolerance 20w50 is fine (which is a cheap 'old engine' oil these days)

They are both pushrod design, single cam engines, they are both old hat designs. There are some LS1's older than Ecotecs, so i dont understand the logic.
 

vxcalais_01

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Hi guys i went to go buy engine oil today, they recommended i use 5w30, it just doesnt sound right to me, am i being paranoid or is perfectly fine?

Who told you to use this oil ??? 5w40 is the thinnest i would use as long as no leaks and burning oil. Unless its Redline 5w30 which has a HTHS high temp high shear value compared to a 5w40 then i would not use it in that engine. Winter time maybe. Settle for a 15w40 Heavy duty oil, up to a 10w50. Use 20w50 if its leaking or burning oil.

Theoretically a 15w60 will be thinner at startup than a 20w50 but it depends where you take the temp from ? Because the last number is higher it offsets and that oil will thin much slower than the 20w50. At 40 degrees cent where most oils are measured at, it is nearly the same. BUt at 10 degrees cold start in the morning, the 15w is definately thinner, but as it warms up it never thins out more than what the 20w50 will.

HTHS is a measure of the oil in the high temp areas, camshaft, pistons and bearings where it reaches 150 degrees. For interest sake, the minimum HTHS you want is 3.5. THis is the figure the specialist say will allow the engine last past the car body but will still wear but last long enough. If i can recall 0 wear is around 8, so no oils can ever reach that. Thicker oils have a higher HTHS thats why they used to be recommended. But now due to base oil technology, there are thinner oils that act like thicker oils in the high temp shear regions, Redline, Shell Helix Ultra to name a few. 5w30 is usually around the 3.2 mark, so its below what is recommended, however in the newer engines, this is catered for like the SIDI v6's etc. Definately not for an LS1. Those engines are designed with fuel economy in mind, with engine wear not the main factor. Even then, newer engines are designed differently. If you already have it use it, as in 10,000k's it wont kill the engine, just monitor how it burns or leaks. The problem is when you use it for 150,000k's or so.
 

vxcalais_01

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The oils will always run back to the sump, no matter what. There will always be a light film of oil left, even if only started every few months. It is oil flowing over the parts that lubricates it and cushions between the parts, not oil film. Its not like grease. At start up, the sacrificial layer of di-ester,zinc, graphite or moly will do its job until the oil flows through. When this oil film fails, then these additives kick in again to do there job. Zinc needs heat before it starts to work, so there will always be some wear at startup. You are only trying to minimise it.

Some people dont realise that when the oil is hot, it actually thins out. This should be obvious seeing any type of hot oil. Its how much it thins out making one thicker that the other. Higher viscosity hot oil, its gonna be thinner than a lower viscosity thin oil at startup when its cold. Hot oil is always thinner.
 

IMCRZY

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you will only have trouble using thin oils in a worn or otherwise crook engine.

I Had a brand new Hyundai I30 & done the first oil change at 7,500kms & used a full synthetic 5w/50 which was within the specs that could be used in that motor & after a 1,000kms there was a rattle in the motor so i cahnged back to a full synthetic 10w/40 & it stopped only to return a 1,000kms or so later so in the end it went back to Hyundai for warrenty & long story short it had worn the bearings out & the piston pin holes in the piston causing this rattle.....

Conclusion..... A Standard spec oil is more than enough for a street car, there is absolutly no need to exceed any standard specs unless it is not standard, simple as that....
 

TA 91 WA

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LS1s need 5w30 or something like that

Ecotecs are such old and loose tolerance 20w50 is fine (which is a cheap 'old engine' oil these days)

Don't lots of people with LS1's also use a 10w60 to stop valve train rattle? Seen lots of threads about it.
 

Brett_jjj

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I Had a brand new Hyundai I30 & done the first oil change at 7,500kms & used a full synthetic 5w/50 which was within the specs that could be used in that motor & after a 1,000kms there was a rattle in the motor so i cahnged back to a full synthetic 10w/40 & it stopped only to return a 1,000kms or so later so in the end it went back to Hyundai for warrenty & long story short it had worn the bearings out & the piston pin holes in the piston causing this rattle.....

Conclusion..... A Standard spec oil is more than enough for a street car, there is absolutly no need to exceed any standard specs unless it is not standard, simple as that....

As I said,"an otherwise crook engine".Id say there was other causes more likely to cause this than just the oil,unless it was some really crap or contaminated oil to begin with.But something like that is more likely to be caused by low oil pressure due to a faulty oil pump maybe,or an internal oil gallery leak,causing certain bearings or parts of the engine to be starved of oil.There could be 20 different causes actually.Millions of people around the world run better spec oils in standard engines and never have problems.
 

TonyJZX

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LS1 first appeared in the 1997 Corvette C5 and in the 2000 VT S2 Commodore

The Ecotec slash Buick 3800 can be traced back to 1962 and first appeared in the 1989 VN Commodore... the "Ecotec" first appeared in the 1995 VS Commdore but it's really just a slightly updated VR engine

let's not kid ourselves, the Buick is old design
 

vxcalais_01

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Yeah and the LS1 is an upgrade of the V8 5.0 litre. Whats your point ? Their all push rod engines. Well then, the Supercharged L67 is newer than the LS1, and is nearly identical to the Ecotec. I love LS1's and by all means this is an amusing pointless argument, but name be one item that makes the LS1 more modern than the Ecotec ?
 
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