G,day people i am Ben living in the netherlands and i imported a VR 304 + 4L60E and all i needed to get the engine working,its all in my european Opel Monza (Kind of a VK coupe Holden Commodore). Everything is working fine except the speedo isnt working and i have brought me a Abbot cable x thing to run the speedo thats mechanical and working with W=694 speedo cable revolutions per km (australian cars on a VB as example have W=625). Can somebody tell me where to the take the signal best from the PCM or maybe take it direct from the VSS and how would the setting be wenn i use a 3.45 diff and 225/45-17 tires that are 199.27cm round so 501 revs per kilometer. I installed the cable x box allready under the dashbord behind the glove box,and its a pain in the ass to get acces to it so i wanne adjust it one time so who used this product before on a early commodore? Greetz Ben
Vr has a reluctor sensor on the box that goes to the ecu then the ecu outputs a square wave to the dash via a violet and white wire in the engine loom to dash loom plug beside the ecu. If your convertor expects a hall effect sensor style signal use the violet wire it is 1250 pulses per km
Okay so on thats small white connector near the pcm i need to take the violet/white cable from and that is the signal wire that normaly go,s to my speedo in the VR? I just take that abbott cable x and put it on somewhere in the car and wire it up and then i start messing with the setting untill i found something that i call accurate...(using my phone as gps speed meter to compare with that abbot thing)
Yeah it normally feeds the vr Speedo cluster its pulses .it's the best place to grab the signal so as not to mess with the signal to the ecu and mess up the gearshifts.
Its not working i mean i hooked this electric motor up to +12V wenn the ignition is on and earth and i hooked the signal wire up to the violet/white wire on the connector near the ecu. I put it on my passenger seat with a speedo against it,i made a small bracket for that so i just need a square pin that connects cable x thing with the speedo so i can adjust easy it so it works as it shut and then i want to bolt in it place behind the glove box. But that abbott box is not doing anything...I will check everything again,but that abbott thing is brandnew never installed....Might it be dodgy or does it miss the signal? How can u measure if that violet/white wire on the white connector near the pcm is sending out impulses?
It may not like a square wave output if it doesn't work even though it says it can go after the ecu in the instruction
Its brandnew (8 years old but never ever used just stored in the garage and the last 2 years in the car) and never used before,so its weird it doesnt do anything.. It has a self diagnose test in it where u set all switches off and than add power the led shut blink then but only wenn all wired are correct,and its not doing that. I added plus and groud to the engine and it spins great,so i have a problem with my electronics or with my signal. Can i take the vss signal from the wire that comes from VSS and go,s into the pcm? I am not that good with electronics,so i better ask,then i have a good strong signal,and it shut be a signal that the abbott box reconises. Wenn i measure on the white plug near the pcm on the violet/white wire the output is 9,25v wenn the power is on and the car isnt driving.
when u test that 9.25v wire just push the car very slowly and if its all working it should jump from the 9.25v down to 0v (maby 1v max) and back up as the vehicle moves, if its not then u have an issues with the signal, can do same test with the signal from the sensor to see if it works (im assuming its the 3 wire sensor)
I have a 2 wire VSS (normal 40th teeth wheel in a 4l60E) i will try this and see what my meters tells me. But a 4l60E wont shift if the VSS sends no signal cause the pcm doesnt know the shift points,but my transmission works sweet and there are 0.0 error codes in the system,so i asume my pcm is okay... Either way it doesnt work with signal the pcm sends out or the electronics in the cable x box are broken 1 of the 2,i will check what happens wenn u push the car slowly and see if brings any changes and then i take the signal straight from the blue wire from the VSS and see if that works..If that doesnt bring any change then i send the cable x back to the usa for repair..
ok the 2 wire is an inductive sensor so u cant use the tests i mentioned unless u might have to drive the vehicle as it sometimes dosnt work till u get a couple kph speed motion (but then the pulses will be too fast to see properly), if u can work out which wire from the sensor is the positive (prob blue as u mention) u could try that to the cable x signal in and also make sure its grounded to the same earth the signal goes too (body/ecu ect) so it gets the loop to see if it works, if its not working with the square wave signal try the speed sensor 2 wire inductive signal see if it works as it may only work with one signal type, just the sensor will be putting out a much higher ppk then the ecu to the dash, when the cable x is powered up does the signal wire in have any voltage to it ? when its disconnected
I took the signal from the VSS pin 5a i think Blue/white and added that as signal instead of after the pcm and still nothing,then i packed the cable x and shipped it to the factory for repair in the USA....i wont see that back the coming 4 5 weeks i guess.. I put the car together as it was and wait for the cable x to return or in the mean time i go make some exhaust for it...
You have the 345 diff, wheel circumference 501 x 345 diff ratio x 40 teeth divided by 10 pulses per rotation = 6914 per mile x .695 (your speedo) = 4805 rotations per Klm. Set all the dip switches to "OFF" except for number 5, set to "ON". That should sort it.
Ow i will try that for ure ones its back from Trump land,i took a small speedo from euro car (100% identical to VB speedo but our,s go till 240km/h) and made a small bracket that i bolt to the cable x box and this holds the speedo meter straight for the cable x its cable input and i made small square pin that connects speedo and box so i can adjust it on the drivers seat... Cant wait to get a working speedo and get exhaust and drive this girl overhere in the netherlands...
May 12 2019 was my last message its may 19th now its getting summer slowly and i found some time to work on my project,and since day one the engine/trannie where in the car there was a problem with the starter motor it would barely engage and 90% of the time do click click click.. This car will be my daily wenn its ready with the holden v8 on LPG. Since it worked great wenn the engine was on the floor running: I found out that the solenoid would not pull hard enough to make the connection internaly so the starter would not start to spin and engage the flex plate,it only worked wenn the starter and flexplate would line up 100% and it would fly out without any resistance,so i wired my startermotor solenoid with a thick wire straight from the battery to the starter solenoid and a relay connects this wire wenn i start the car,it works great now. To find this out i took the starter out like atleast 4x witch is a pain in the ass cause there is barely any space meaning i needed to take my own made exhaust manifold off,torque converter cover needed to get loosend up and then undo the wires from below and start wiggling to get it out and then i glued shimms on it hoping it would fix the issue cause i could never put the shims between block and starter so thats why i needed to glue them on....... Untill i read about voltage drop cause of bad connections i had no idea what caused the click click click so i though why would it crank over 100% without a problem wenn its out of the car and not wenn its in the car and then i though lets try a wire straight from the battery and it cranked over each time i connected the wire to the plus terminal. 2 things need to be fixed: exhaust pipes need to made more or less cause i made 2 manifolds that ended up next to the torque converter and i need to connect them with the original Monza exhaust system witch is twin 2inch or 2x 50mm or 2x47mm,this is piss easy cause there so much space And the speedo need to be hooked up (my abbot cable x thing took me like 6 months to get back and it was brand new and it cost me like 300$ to get repaired and shipped so **** Cable x i will never buy anything from them ever) Once thats done its a reliable stock 304 with a memcal tune that shut give it around 180kw/400nm at the crank...Nothing compared to a LS1 or a BMW v8 or or but still more then enough to handle modern traffic with a nice sound,i really like the torque,wenn u tick the pedal u start to move thats awesome.
