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ABS/STABILITY issue

Justin.o

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Hey guys was wondering if someone may have had the same issues I am experiencing with my 2008 ve commdodore it’s a SV6 only done just over 260k but I changed the brakes and had a ABS issue pop up I’ve changed all pads and rotors even changed my abs module and still experiencing these issues the battery is dieing faster then anything I’ve replaced the wheel sensors as well I’m just wondering if anyone would think it could potentially be a BCM issue as my centre isn’t working either A/c controls and stuff have all stopped working aswell
 

Fu Manchu

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You are engaging in a method called loading the parts canon. Stop. Its random. It’s expensive. Problem solving based on guesses is no way to solve problems.

A low voltage condition will force the ECM to ration voltage out to more important systems like keeping the engine running. Your Stability and Traction will be one of the first to be dropped. That will trigger a fault code even though the ECM did it.

Have the battery load tested.
Have the charge circuits tested
Have the battery health confirmed (what % of charge it holds compared to when new)
 

Fu Manchu

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As a VE owner you would be well advised to buy a battery tester. $50. Topdon do an excellent one. The VE’s have never been great with batteries. The VF is much better. The VZ was also good.
 

lout

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get your battery tested
maybe even just replace battery
ve really dont like low voltage
 

BlackVXGTS

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Don't bother testing, just replace the existing battery now.

Autobarn has a special on batteries at the present time. Other companies probably have similar specials.
 

Justin.o

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Have a brand new battery installed in it the issue is whenever I try to drive it the abs on the front locks up the brakes
 

Justin.o

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The issue is the brakes get stuck on the car while I’m driving that’s what is doing my head in most any help would be greatly appreciated
 

Fu Manchu

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Then you have a more serious issue.
Either a faulty ABS module, a worn front caliper piston, or the master cylinder needs an overhaul.
 

Justin.o

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How would I be able to check if it’s the master cylinder
 

Fu Manchu

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How would I be able to check if it’s the master cylinder
Do both front lock up? Or one? If both you could assume (yet possibly wrong if both callipers are seizing) that it’s the ABS or Master.

Step one. Start at the easiest thing at the furtherest point and work back from there, as with any problem.

Get the wheel/s off and inspect the two front or two back wheels. Would be good to inspect all four. Get the pads out, make sure the pistons are not binding. Give it all a clean and reinstall. Pump the brakes and see if it feels different.

All good? Move to the next thing. Get an inspection mirror, get in and check over the back of the master cylinder under the booster. Look right down at the firewall base for signs of brake fluid leaking. Not essentially going to rule out a faulty master cylinder (if it’s binding a bit or a seal is a bit average inside) but it’s an obvious thing you can look for. Unfortunately a leak can also be hidden behind the insulation that sits behind the booster.

For testing the ABS, you will need specialised equipment to operate it. A bi-directional scan tool.

For replacing the Master cylinder, you could do that, bench bleed it first and install, but the ABS will also need bleeding (AFAIK) and that will require a Bi-directional high end scan tool.

You won’t be able to cherry pick the cause and avoid doing work to find the fault. You could get lucky of course but getting lucky can also be expensive.

If you are semi-competent at servicing your own car, the brakes callipers are more than doable at home with basic skills.

Inspect the ABS sensors on each wheel as well.
 
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