Acrylic blending thinners

[Trevor loves holden.]

Turps was used prior 1952 for decades as wax thinners and so on, nothing wrong with using turps as thinners Acrylic paint is oil base so is turps, mineral thinners is made from petroleum Crude oil and Turps is from pine trees, both are made from oil. I probably only use Turps in house oil bass paint or say spray painting steel objects myself and use thinners for car paint, doing touch up work I rather get the 2k paint with activator hardener no need for clear coat, I used acrylic clear never again it is crap, you need the 2k as it sets hard like a shell acrylic stays soft and doesn't last. I recommend Max cans 2k with the activator at the bottom of the can best 50 bucks you ever spend.

 

[losh1971]

[QUOTE="Trevor loves holden., post: 3089667, member:

I used acrylic clear never again it is crap, you need the 2k as it sets hard like a shell acrylic stays soft.

Then why has the original paint lasted over 25 years.

 

[Vin999]

[QUOTE="Trevor loves holden., post: 3089667, member:
Then why has the original paint lasted over 25 years.

The acrylic clear wasn't crap as TLH is saying, the difference with the 2pac clears is not so much the hardner but more the UV resistance additives thus causing much less breakdown to the sun than the acrylic.
Old original 25 year old acrylics lasted because of solid base colours, it was the metallic colors that broke down due to sun uv and moisture when used as a daily. The metallics ones that were barely used and garaged most of the time survived.

 

[Trevor loves holden.]

The acrylic clear wasn't crap as TLH is saying, the difference with the 2pac clears is not so much the hardner but more the UV resistance additives thus causing much less breakdown to the sun than the acrylic.
Old original 25 year old acrylics lasted because of solid base colours, it was the metallic colors that broke down due to sun uv and moisture when used as a daily. The metallic ones that were barely used and garaged most of the time survived.

All Metallic car paint mainly comes in a base coat which requires a clear coat, I sprayed my front bonnet with the base coat came out nice added the clear acrylic over the top looked nice before the weather got to it, 2k paint goes hard therefore wont break down like just acrylic. I'm talking about adding clear coat in acrylic over base coat which is garbage, 200 bucks down the drain.
Solid paint is not bad if your car paint comes in solid, as its solid and not just a top coat.
I done some repair work on my car rear spoiler been one and resprayed my roof, because mine has B in the code meaning Base coat I need to use a clear over it but by using the Max 2k with activator allows me to spray the panels just like spraying solid acrylic, "no need for Clear coat." The roof was done 2 years ago and still looks the same as the day I did it not like the base coat and clear acrylic method which I will never use again after the bonnet turned out after the weather got to it since discovering the 2k max can, yes you can buy clear 2k with the activator if you wish to use a base coat but why when you can do it all in one after priming or sanding back the old clear.

 

[losh1971]

For a novice painter like myself acrylic is a lot more forgiving. If you make a mistake you can sand it out an hour or two later and fix it. Acrylic is cheap, the thinners is cheap and it can be done in a nonventilated shed. Acrylic doesn't require a heated room to apply it, merely a fan heater blowing on the panel keeping the air warm.
I priced up 2k and I was looking at around 160 bucks just for the materials. I priced up rattle cans but at 40 bucks a can for what is essentially 75mls of paint in each can, I couldn't justify that cost. I would have needed three cans and blending would have been difficult.
Obviously 2k is a better product but the logistics of applying it, heating it and not breathing it was way to difficult for me.

 

[Deuce]

For a novice painter like myself acrylic is a lot more forgiving. If you make a mistake you can sand it out an hour or two later and fix it. Acrylic is cheap, the thinners is cheap and it can be done in a nonventilated shed. Acrylic doesn't require a heated room to apply it, merely a fan heater blowing on the panel keeping the air warm.
I priced up 2k and I was looking at around 160 bucks just for the materials. I priced up rattle cans but at 40 bucks a can for what is essentially 75mls of paint in each can, I couldn't justify that cost. I would have needed three cans and blending would have been difficult.
Obviously 2k is a better product but the logistics of applying it, heating it and not breathing it was way to difficult for me.

You saw my thread with my latest paint adventures. Yeah not a show car or show finish, but that was 2k solid colour. From memory it was around $300 for 2l paint, 1l fast hardener and 1l spraying thinners. (mates rate maybe? I dunno, I didn't ask)
PPG delfleet range I think (industrial truck line so a bit cheaper)

I think PPG deltron was what I used on the car roof (2k solid white) and I kept some in a touch up bottle. Best thing about that was this fix: when I scratched the front fender behind the indicator for about 3inch. So touched it up every night for 3 days, and then a week later blocked it flat and buffed it. You would never pick it now.

 

[Vin999]

For a novice painter like myself acrylic is a lot more forgiving. If you make a mistake you can sand it out an hour or two later and fix it. Acrylic is cheap, the thinners is cheap and it can be done in a nonventilated shed. Acrylic doesn't require a heated room to apply it, merely a fan heater blowing on the panel keeping the air warm.
I priced up 2k and I was looking at around 160 bucks just for the materials. I priced up rattle cans but at 40 bucks a can for what is essentially 75mls of paint in each can, I couldn't justify that cost. I would have needed three cans and blending would have been difficult.
Obviously 2k is a better product but the logistics of applying it, heating it and not breathing it was way to difficult for me.

absofuckinglutely spot on Losh acrylic is easier and more forgiving outside a professional paint booth.
I take it you have factory acrylic solid white with the dark grey undercoat colour on yours, from memory holden's used an acrylic urethane enamel system called dulux rapide up to 1994 and started with 2 pac on VS's. You can tell its enamel/primer undercoat by the smell and softness when you sand the coats back, its still slightly wet and clogs sandpaper.

Also acrylic is ok to use, many show cars over the years had good results with paintjobs, the trick is to start with a metal body, use a lot of clear coats and base colour coats and how good the painter is and how good you cut and polish the clear coats. My uncle professionally painted my old hq from bare metal strip to acrylic and car won an award for best paint in old sa hotrod show. But today why use it when you can get better results and shine options with the modern 2 pac system, plus the new young painters won't touch acrylic any more, to oldddddd school for them plus it doesn't keep up with their mates.

 

[Deuce]

absofuckinglutely spot on Losh acrylic is easier and more forgiving outside a professional paint booth.
I take it you have factory acrylic solid white with the dark grey undercoat colour on yours, from memory holden's used an acrylic urethane enamel system called dulux rapide up to 1994 and started with 2 pac on VS's. You can tell its enamel/primer undercoat by the smell and softness when you sand the coats back, its still slightly wet and clogs sandpaper.

Also acrylic is ok to use, many show cars over the years had good results with paintjobs, the trick is to start with a metal body, use a lot of clear coats and base colour coats and how good the painter is and how good you cut and polish the clear coats. My uncle professionally painted my old hq from bare metal strip to acrylic and car won an award for best paint in old sa hotrod show. But today why use it when you can get better results and shine options with the modern 2 pac system, plus the new young painters won't touch acrylic any more, to oldddddd school for them plus it doesn't keep up with their mates.

Young painters these days are using expensive water borne paint systems.

 

[Vin999]

All Metallic car paint mainly comes in a base coat which requires a clear coat, I sprayed my front bonnet with the base coat came out nice added the clear acrylic over the top looked nice before the weather got to it, 2k paint goes hard therefore wont break down like just acrylic. I'm talking about adding clear coat in acrylic over base coat which is garbage, 200 bucks down the drain.
Solid paint is not bad if your car paint comes in solid, as its solid and not just a top coat.
I done some repair work on my car rear spoiler been one and resprayed my roof, because mine has B in the code meaning Base coat I need to use a clear over it but by using the Max 2k with activator allows me to spray the panels just like spraying solid acrylic, "no need for Clear coat." The roof was done 2 years ago and still looks the same as the day I did it not like the base coat and clear acrylic method which I will never use again after the bonnet turned out after the weather got to it since discovering the 2k max can, yes you can buy clear 2k with the activator if you wish to use a base coat but why when you can do it all in one after priming or sanding back the old clear.

Hey trev I wasn’t having a go at you, I was just saying acrylic isn’t as bad as people say and can hold up ok if done accordingly and kept in the shade, its the suns UV that kills it quickly more so than due to it still being soft and really after 30 years it ain’t that soft anymore, the other issue people with old cars don’t strip back to bare metal and want/use 2 pac, they try to seal the old acrylic paintjob with either 2k primer or a sealer/adhesion promoter and paint over it, it initially looks great but doesn’t last long and then it starts to crack/peel/blister under the new 2 pac with the sun/weather.
PS I wouldn't use acrylic clear coat spray cans, cheap n nasty, they dont build up enough shine or coverage in the coat layers to get a proper shine needed for polishing like using a proper spray gun mixture.

Yes old metallics were acrylic base coats and clears BUT your VS car would be 2 pac from the factory so acrylic clear would be useless over it, it needed to be stripped to metal or 2k primed over the sanding back old clear and base colour to use what you did, I suspect you had original factory clear coat fade on bonnet/roof/boot and tried to cheaply fizx it yourself and you found out what happens but we live n learn from experience. Cheers mate, many people talk but only a few do the walk.

 

[losh1971]

You saw my thread with my latest paint adventures. Yeah not a show car or show finish, but that was 2k solid colour. From memory it was around $300 for 2l paint, 1l fast hardener and 1l spraying thinners. (mates rate maybe? I dunno, I didn't ask)
PPG delfleet range I think (industrial truck line so a bit cheaper)

I think PPG deltron was what I used on the car roof (2k solid white) and I kept some in a touch up bottle. Best thing about that was this fix: when I scratched the front fender behind the indicator for about 3inch. So touched it up every night for 3 days, and then a week later blocked it flat and buffed it. You would never pick it now.

2k is harder to apply. You've seen my painting I'm getting a lot better at it and am used to acrylic. I know how it applies and know how to get the ratios right that it goes on pretty smooth. 2k requires measured ratios. Not that, that is hard. 2k is more toxic and needs a vent.