Acrylic blending thinners

[Vin999]

Young painters these days are using expensive water borne paint systems.

yes thats the new technology, I have heard apparently you only get one chance to get it right in a perfect environment or else start again

 

[losh1971]

The main thing that I don't like about acrylic is the drying times. Although it sets within an hour it takes 8 to 12 weeks to set hard enough that it becomes durable enough for my needs. I touched up the tailgate rail at the same time I painted the tub side and have now had to sit a blanket under the tonneau tiedowns while I wait for it to harden.

 

[Vin999]

2k is harder to apply. You've seen my painting I'm getting a lot better at it and am used to acrylic. I know how it applies and know how to get the ratios right that it goes on pretty smooth. 2k requires measured ratios. Not that, that is hard. 2k is more toxic and needs a vent.

2k is not that hard, with your experience you should be ok, issue without a spray booth is the heat, humidity and what temperature hardener to use in the mix and the dust/**** in the environment that trucks your finished work.

 

[Vin999]

The main thing that I don't like about acrylic is the drying times. Although it sets within an hour it takes 8 to 12 weeks to set hard enough that it becomes durable enough for my needs. I touched up the tailgate rail at the same time I painted the tub side and have now had to sit a blanket under the tonneau tiedowns while I wait for it to harden.

haha its like putting a baby to bed, why not use some heaters, also if you wait weeks to dry you will get a better finished polish/shine

 

[losh1971]

haha its like putting a baby to bed, why not use some heaters, also if you wait weeks to dry you will get a better finished polish/shine

I use a blow heater when applying acrylic. If you don't have a heated shed to paint in or a heater warming the panel and air around it, it won't go on right no matter what the paint. And yeah I've learnt to wait. Buffing 2 day old acrylic leaves swirl marks. I now wait around 3-4 weeks before buffing.

 

[Deuce]

Losh, are you using the heat gun to get the panel to temperature before applying paint? That's a biggy moreso than heat gun on applied paint IMO.

Some good advice by VIN.
Humidity is a killer.
And yeah a good hard paint produces a better buff result (even let 2k breath for 30days before any wax is applied if possible)

 

[Vin999]

Losh, are you using the heat gun to get the panel to temperature before applying paint? That's a biggy moreso than heat gun on applied paint IMO.

Some good advice by VIN.
Humidity is a killer.
And yeah a good hard paint produces a better buff result (even let 2k breath for 30days before any wax is applied if possible)

Thumbsup, experience is a good way to learn hey plus making misteaks hehe.
You give out good advice as well on many things I have noticed especially with the old trusty 304 engine

 

[losh1971]

Losh, are you using the heat gun to get the panel to temperature before applying paint? That's a biggy moreso than heat gun on applied paint IMO.

Some good advice by VIN.
Humidity is a killer.
And yeah a good hard paint produces a better buff result (even let 2k breath for 30days before any wax is applied if possible)

I use a blow heater to warm the panel. I also sometimes have it blowing while I apply the paint as it warms the air between the gun and the panel.

 

[Trevor loves holden.]

I suspect you had original factory clear coat fade on bonnet/roof/boot and tried to cheaply fizx it yourself and you found out what happens but we live n learn from experience. Cheers mate, many people talk but only a few do the walk.

Didn't try to do it on the cheap, I took the bonnet right back and started from scratch, the primer and base coat was perfect I wasn't to know about the clear had to be 2k, that been said there is a 2k spray without the hardener which will activate by air but still not as good as the hardener. As I was very disappointed in the bonnet with the acrylic I ended up getting hold of a bonnet that was in good nick for 80 bucks, 6 months latter the roof started to go so I did some recherché and gave the Max cans ago for the roof and I was very happy with the result. This summer the rear spoiler turn got the same paint can, best paint I ever used in a can only issue it doesn't keep after 8-12hr. I found laying a little more down in the last pass gave a better finish not to much that it sags or runs. Toxic not wrong open air and the stuff still strong and it sticks to everything so cover up anything you don't want the activator to touch.

 

[Trevor loves holden.]

I priced up 2k and I was looking at around 160 bucks just for the materials. I priced up rattle cans but at 40 bucks a can for what is essentially 75mls of paint in each can, I couldn't justify that cost.

Must be the can without the hardener, i look at it this way i was priced 300 to paint my rear spoiler a can of max paint with the red button activator 46 bucks, 22 for plastic primer, 3 bucks for wet and dry paper and 8 for wax grease remover= $79 a saving of 221 dollars.
I was quoted 4 years ago 600 to do bonnet or 900 to blend in the front guards to match bonnet and 400 for roof, roof cost me about 120 to do. So 46 a can isn't that much compare.
If I was to spray the whole car I would need around 1k worth of gear, primer, base coat, clear, hardener, thinners. I have the equipment but for a small job spray can or 2 is efficient.