Gthayes
New Member
- Joined
- Feb 23, 2013
- Messages
- 27
- Reaction score
- 0
- Points
- 0
- Age
- 46
- Location
- Perth
- Members Ride
- Vr ute, Vz storm, Vz v6 ute
Thanks to everyone's help so far, but I failed the pits again for poor brakes.
The brakes are poor but not dangerous so I figured in may be basic so I changed the pads to benix and changed out the piston seals and dust boots. Lightly regressed all moving parts.
The pedal is low and spongy with a hiss when depressed from under the dash.
Vac tests being the pedal drops slightly when I start the car. 3 pumps to clear vac pressure when car off. Sweet.
Bled with dot 4 maybe twenty times. Not even small bubbles since finishing the 2nd bleed.
Using 1 and two man bleeds.
Slightly better.
Machined the rotors, and re stripped out the calipers to ensure they are moving freely. Changed out MC unit. Bench bled it first and depressed the caliper pistons when connecting to get the last air out. Then bled again from calipers.
No change.
Changed out the vac booster hose and found that the check valve does not hold suction when engine is off and yr finger is over the end. Obviously this will we changed first thing but will this affect braking while the engine is running? Simply cannot find symptoms for this on the site?
Also when I benched the MC the pressure for the rear lines sent fluid across the garage but the front outlets just gently spurted when I fully depressed the piston? Is this the norm?
I have also checked the rotor temps after each road test and they seem fine.
Checked the electric switch under the MC for good measure.
Tomorrow I will throw in a new booster for the hell of it as I am totally stumped???
No vac or liquid leaks detected but when I disconnect the booster vac hose the engine purrs at 2k rpm??
Could that be related?
Lastly I changed the fuel reg as the vac hose was full of fuel. Runs sweet now, just can't stop!
Thanks for your time
The brakes are poor but not dangerous so I figured in may be basic so I changed the pads to benix and changed out the piston seals and dust boots. Lightly regressed all moving parts.
The pedal is low and spongy with a hiss when depressed from under the dash.
Vac tests being the pedal drops slightly when I start the car. 3 pumps to clear vac pressure when car off. Sweet.
Bled with dot 4 maybe twenty times. Not even small bubbles since finishing the 2nd bleed.
Using 1 and two man bleeds.
Slightly better.
Machined the rotors, and re stripped out the calipers to ensure they are moving freely. Changed out MC unit. Bench bled it first and depressed the caliper pistons when connecting to get the last air out. Then bled again from calipers.
No change.
Changed out the vac booster hose and found that the check valve does not hold suction when engine is off and yr finger is over the end. Obviously this will we changed first thing but will this affect braking while the engine is running? Simply cannot find symptoms for this on the site?
Also when I benched the MC the pressure for the rear lines sent fluid across the garage but the front outlets just gently spurted when I fully depressed the piston? Is this the norm?
I have also checked the rotor temps after each road test and they seem fine.
Checked the electric switch under the MC for good measure.
Tomorrow I will throw in a new booster for the hell of it as I am totally stumped???
No vac or liquid leaks detected but when I disconnect the booster vac hose the engine purrs at 2k rpm??
Could that be related?
Lastly I changed the fuel reg as the vac hose was full of fuel. Runs sweet now, just can't stop!
Thanks for your time