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Air Conditioning Advice

samuels

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gsmrobinson said:
Here are some known problems

#1.. The liquid lines at the reciever drier seize onto to the reciever drier. Replacement of the liquid line from the reciever drier to the tx valve. Or the replacement of the condensor or both. Approx. $190 - $500 gassed

#2.. Discharge hose leaking. Hose from the compressor to the condensor. Approx $200 gassed

#3.. Tx valve leaking. Small valve that regulates the gas flow. Approx. $200

#4.. Evaporator leaking. Behind the dash. (Dash out 10 hours) Approx $850

#5.. Condensor leaks. Normally top left hand side. Approx $500

#6.. Liquid line leaking at P' Clamp on condensor. Approx $190

#7.. Compressor leaking or self distructing. Approx $1200

#8.. Leaking Heater tap. Causes loss of cooling. Approx $60

#9.. Heater tap staying on. Vacuum switch problem. Approx $50

#10.. leaking on floor. Drain tube blocked. Approx. $20 for deblocking

These are the most common problems I get with the A/c system on VR-S Commodores.

Don't be too scared of the problems, just be aware of them and that The A/c does NOT just need "re-gassing" it WILL have a problem.

Regards Guy.
holy moly....10 hours for a dash removal?the VR -VS's seem easier to remove than the VN's,no offense to you boss,but this is what i was trying to explain to some people here on the forums,a mechanic today will almost double the times to make his money :),undoutbly you have seen on TV in recent times about the automotive industry,especially with women customers.i'm a retired motor mechanic myself,i got out of the trade for this reason,i'm to honest and couldn't work under those conditions,it's just not right.....not specifically targeting you mate,but i'm sure you don't like getting ripped off,and i'm sure you wouldn't like to see some one else get ripped off,thats why i operate from my house now,i can work at my pleasure,not under any stress and charge more than half less than any registered mechanical buisness.it took me 2 hours to remove a VN dash,admittedly i didn't have to put it back in,but 2 hours out,allow 3 hrs in = 5 hours to remove replace dash,now i haven't seen the latest times guide book for years,but 10 hours thats a lot of smoko breaks ;)
 
S

smn

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Re point 10 leaking on floor - drain tube blocked. This has happened to me twice in last couple of years - each time necessitating visit to mechanic's hoist. Can I clear this block myself? Where can I find this drain tube ? I looked in a service manual and it talks of an evaporator drain tube - picture shows it located close to what looks like the catalytic converter. I got under the car but all I could find was a bunch of electrical wires bound up in black plastic. Can anyone help please ?
 
M

Mr Invisible 55

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horrible smell

my sister has a Vs Berlina and we went for a drive in it the other day and we noticed a horrible smell it smelt like curry and then it would go away for a while and then come back also it wil just change from head to feeet and the back again very quickly when its on manual mabey its ment to do that but then again i dont know much about climate control

:drink:
 

Clarrie

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In the passenger's footwell, on the side of the black plastic heater box, you'll find a rubber bung about the size of a 20c piece. Pull this out and you are at the top of the drain. Get some whipper snipper cord and poke it down the drain hole. Now get under the car and find the cord... there's your drain. I regularly clean my VR drain from the top this way but others find it convenient to do it from below whilst they're under there doing other jobs. Hope this helps, Clarrie.
 

<HOLDEN>

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My VR heater core is leaking not happy JAN!!
 

DeiCide

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With the vents not moving issue,

I had an accident recently(crashed front passenger side into hill!) After I noticed a black ball hanging down from under the left hand panel(outside the car). (My vent worked perfect before this) I checked, everything was ok, except the vents didn't work!! I looked at the ball closly to find a crack in it. Bushmechanics... I sealed it with putty and tape. Screwed it back in and the vents worked again... but ever since they always re-pressurise (Hear that gas noise every 20mins)... eventually I'll order another ball thing from Holden... but it worth having alook to see if thats the prob u have.
 
R

RallyUte

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I have a VR ute and aircon works fine, nice and cold but when I accelerate, air is redirected down on my feet rather than at the face. I am guessing a vac line is broken or fallen off but any ideas as to where to start looking?
 

DeiCide

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sounds like a presure leak, could be in the ball thing (read the above post), if not check the hoses going in and around the front left passengers side panel, next to the washer bottle.
 

PsYko

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hjmonaro said:
Hi I have a VS SII Calais with a air cond/climate control problem when you press the on/auto button it doesn't always come on then 2 minutes or longer it will come on by its self I think it might be in the switch or in the fan speed resistor any help would be great

Cheers

I am having the exact same problem with my VS SII Berlina climate control! sometimes it with turn on straight away, somet5imes it takes 10-20 minutes, sometimes it just wont. If it is on and working, it will always turn off when I press off though.

I am also having a problem with the air coming out of the wrong vents, half the time it works fine, but other times it will only spit air out from the foot vents and it always seems to shoot cold air out from behind my deck (which isnt good, sometimes the deck gives me error codes and doesnt work until it dries out again) :bang:

I have been meaning to take out the dash and have a look around, any advice would be greatly appreciated!
 
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