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aircon pully vr v8
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justbad4you
IF YOR NOT A HOLDEN
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Yes, you can remove the pulley from the A/C compressor and replace the bearing that the pulley spins on when the compressor clutch is disengaged.
To get the pulley off, undo the nut that holds the clutch plate on - unplug the wire to the compressor and jumper the connector on the compressor to battery power to temporarily lock the clutch and stop the clutch plate from spinning (leave the accessory drive belt on up to this point). Keep the washers (if any) behind the clutch plate as they set the gap between the clutch plate and compressor pulley.
Remove the circlip that holds the pulley bearing onto the outside of the compressor snout and remove the pulley from the compressor. It's a light press fit on the snout so you'll likely need a puller. There is one type available that fits in between the bearing cages, after drilling the spacer/guide for the balls (destroying the bearing). The legs for the one I have aren't long enough to get past the compressor snout so, as an alternative, I made a couple of custom legs by welding segments of an old circlip onto 20mm flat bar. These engage in the circlip groove in the compressor pulley (it's only a light press fit). The compressor clutch solenoid will come off also.
With the pulley and clutch solenoid removed, the bearing can be pressed out of the pulley for replacement. You need to be careful about supporting the pulley so as not to bend the clutch face while pressing the bearings out and in. Press on the outer race of the new bearing only - as per standard practice. There will be a circlip or two in there somewhere too.
Reassembly is the reverse of removal with the only extra thing to do being to set/check the air gap between the compressor clutch plate and pulley using feeler gauges. I'm not sure what that gap is off the top of my head - possibly 0.8-1mm. You should be able to find it somewhere in the www: the V6 Commodore compressor should be a Sanden TRF or TRS 105. Otherwise, measure and match what the gap is now, acknowledging that the old bearing may have sufficient play in it to affect the gap. Tap the new bearing, with pulley, onto the compressor snout with a hammer, using a length of pipe or socket so as to only push on the inner race of the pulley bearing.
Edit: I forgot to say not to push against the compressor shaft with the puller when removing the pulley. Use a large socket or a short length of water pipe with a diameter just smaller than the ID of the pulley bearing with some flat plate or bar across the end of it to push against the compressor shaft bearing housing (but not the compressor shaft bearing).
To get the pulley off, undo the nut that holds the clutch plate on - unplug the wire to the compressor and jumper the connector on the compressor to battery power to temporarily lock the clutch and stop the clutch plate from spinning (leave the accessory drive belt on up to this point). Keep the washers (if any) behind the clutch plate as they set the gap between the clutch plate and compressor pulley.
Remove the circlip that holds the pulley bearing onto the outside of the compressor snout and remove the pulley from the compressor. It's a light press fit on the snout so you'll likely need a puller. There is one type available that fits in between the bearing cages, after drilling the spacer/guide for the balls (destroying the bearing). The legs for the one I have aren't long enough to get past the compressor snout so, as an alternative, I made a couple of custom legs by welding segments of an old circlip onto 20mm flat bar. These engage in the circlip groove in the compressor pulley (it's only a light press fit). The compressor clutch solenoid will come off also.
With the pulley and clutch solenoid removed, the bearing can be pressed out of the pulley for replacement. You need to be careful about supporting the pulley so as not to bend the clutch face while pressing the bearings out and in. Press on the outer race of the new bearing only - as per standard practice. There will be a circlip or two in there somewhere too.
Reassembly is the reverse of removal with the only extra thing to do being to set/check the air gap between the compressor clutch plate and pulley using feeler gauges. I'm not sure what that gap is off the top of my head - possibly 0.8-1mm. You should be able to find it somewhere in the www: the V6 Commodore compressor should be a Sanden TRF or TRS 105. Otherwise, measure and match what the gap is now, acknowledging that the old bearing may have sufficient play in it to affect the gap. Tap the new bearing, with pulley, onto the compressor snout with a hammer, using a length of pipe or socket so as to only push on the inner race of the pulley bearing.
Edit: I forgot to say not to push against the compressor shaft with the puller when removing the pulley. Use a large socket or a short length of water pipe with a diameter just smaller than the ID of the pulley bearing with some flat plate or bar across the end of it to push against the compressor shaft bearing housing (but not the compressor shaft bearing).