[VE] VZ and VE Alloytec PCV Problem/Fix

[wannaeatyourbrains]

I filled up the front of the sump with petty and let it soak overnight, and then shook the **** out of the car and let it drain. then I thought oh bugger it, I will rip the sump off. Even after that soaking and rinsing, this is how it was.

The bits you can't see under the lip, which is at least 50% of the intake area, were just caked solid and had to be cleaned with a plastic toothpick. Like caked solid, hard to get stuff out from under the lip of that ring. you can see there.

There was fair dinkum rocks, leaves, bits of string, yellow strings of plastic from your oil filler cap, heaps of rubber gasket of all different colours and these blobs of jelly that must have once been some kind of plastic I guess lying in the sump. Even a few aluminium casting excess blobs.

Sump removal is actually really easy. It's a morning's work. That is why they didn't bother putting an access plate. Best thing you can do for the oil pump and engine in general is pull it off and clean things up.

 

[wannaeatyourbrains]

Now nobody will sleep at night for fear of their pickup.

 

[greenacc]

Bugger it. I have always wanted to pull the rocker covers, timing cover and sump off mine to see how it looks compared to all the sludged up pictures I see. I tell myself that it's still perfect inside because I run good oil and look after it, but can't be sure until I actually get in there and see it.

 

[DavesSV6Tonner]

Just checked my intake ducting for the 1st time since performing the PCV mod. No more oil syrup laying in the flexible corrugated section.
Pretty much dry inside. Another member mentioned about an oily smell since doing the mod, I have noticed this too especially just after engine shut down but also when idling and do a walk around. I suspect it is coming from the exhaust as that oil syrup is now being drawn into the engine and being burnt rather than building up in the intake duct.

 

[Commowar]

Anyone have a link to a sump removal on a vz calais. Might do an engine flush then remove it afterwards to clean properly. I'd like to give it a go myself but don't want to get half way and decided I should have found out more info first. Done the pcv mod, taken the manifold off and cleaned it out and all breather hoses etc. I reckon mine will have some build up too judging by the soot in the hoses. Done 175ks so reckon it's due a good makeover. Cheers

 

[wannaeatyourbrains]

I con't know about a Calais, but the first time I followed these instructions, and they were good for my Lumina/Executive, albeit it is different to the car in question:

VZ SV6 Sump Removal

Removing VZ V6 Sump This job sucks but if you're going to do it you may as well do the timing cover, engine mounts and control arm bushes all at the same time!!! Also the oil pickup is bolted to the sump and connected to the oil pump via an o-ring so it just comes out with the sump. Do at you...

forums.justcommodores.com.au

It is fully straightforward, and involves basically disconnecting the engine and K-frame so you can jack up the former and drop the latter to get the sump out. That's why you gotta undo the struts near the bonnet hinges.

You can use a ring spanner on hex bolts. And the thing you have to be least fussy about is the gluing, cause those machined aluminium faces fit so snug. Last time I used my last smidgum of glue. You wouldn't imagine it could seal how I frugally smeared it the distance with my lumpy, dirty finger, but 10 000 km down the track not a drop is leaking.

I have always pulled off the harmonic balancer. But you know what? One of the two short bolts in the Alloytec timing cover is the one behind the harmonic balancer, and I read elsewhere that it undoes enough to allow the sump to be dropped without removing the balancer.

Maybe someone else knows?

You should start a new thread about it so we can all get into sump removal.

One thing you don't have to worry about with this job is complications. It is exciting lying under everything while you unbolt and then bolt up the sump, cause you ever know what is gonna happen. Make you feel young again.

Oh, and I have been using the same harmonic balancer bolt for ages now. Maybe a sin to some, but it hasn't caused me any strife.

 

[Commowar]

Thanks mate, I did end up finding that thread after. Sounds like a nice complicated job. A youtube would be very handy on the subject though. There's still a few too many opinions on the matter that makes me hesitate not being experienced enough. Being an info junky I like to know the end from the beginning before I start something. Wonder how much it costs at a workshop to do. Either way seems well worth it for the life of the vehicle..

 

[Fu Manchu]

Workshop will cost a lot. They will do it by removing the engine.

 

[Commowar]

bugger. Looks like I'll have to attempt it myself I guess. Or start a strict maintenance regime and hope it clears good enough to hold up for the long haul.. I've heard mixed reviews of engine flushing. It can cause contaminates to move around the engine and block certain parts causing more problems. Still personally think it sounds like a good idea on these engines though.

 

[wannaeatyourbrains]

Begin a new thread, cause this one is for the PCV valve, and take a picture under your car for us. I bet you it is just as easy as mine. I will tell you how to do it, no worries, if it is as similar as I think it is. There are heaps of other helpful people on here. Nothing to it, believe me.

It costs $20 for a new o-ring and $5 for glue if you do it yourself. You can even put glue under the old o-ring and let it set a bit before you put the new one in if you want to save the $20.