Alternator - will it fit?

[Dean1985]

Hey all,

VR 5.0L 94

Recently installed a new Bosch 85 amp alt on my vr 5L due to the last one clapping out.

I have forever had issues with the blinkers and wipers causing the dash to slightly dim and recently realised that even the demister fan will switch modes when im consuming a bit much energy. I thought it was a vacuum ball issue (damaged hose or something and losing vacuum). But i confirmed today that after bringing the revs up for a second or 2 the fan goes back to full speed.

Anyways. Im thinking to keep up i need a 120amp alt.

Bosch Alternator for Holden HSV Clubsport VS Grange Maloo VS Senator 120 Amp | eBay

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Can anyone confirm if this may fit (ot doesnt list my ride) but i dont know if there would be a difference between a vr 5.0L and a Vs Grange etc.

I also run a FG thermo. We have noticed at idle that the car hits about 12v. 12.5, 12.9.

All the earths are bare and clean. Big earth straps to engine and body. All earths have been thoroughly sandpapered and cleaned and tightened.

 

[Deuce]

1st and 3rd photos look good. 2nd photo not so much.
Listing fitment sounds right. As vr is 85amp and vt is internal fan.
Some late VS were the only 120amp external fan (what you need as an upgrade)

 

[EYY]

Consider how much time you spend at idle, and how often the fan is running. You may not have issues under normal driving conditions. Otherwise the 120a alternator is a good upgrade.

 

[gtrboyy]

Any gm/chev type will bolt up...you'll need to upgrade power wire alt-battery obviously.

Be careful of 'bosch style' ebay shite....usually don't suit purpose required.

couple of options

Find 110a vs v8 'cop/interceptor' if they still exist or not kidney money..maybe Baxters? (last I looked stupid money if in stock or weirdly serpentine pulley on them.WTF)

vt v8 like eyy modified with his thermofan install

gm/chev aftermarket 120/160/200 amp 1 wire alternators....apparently can be modded or something changed to 2 wire setup so you can have working charge light on dash.

unsure if he still does it couple of years ago I got modified 160a ls1 mitsubishi(?) from rappo racing that bolts up to factory holden alternator brackets....had planned fg thermo/cdi/fuel pumps etc so wanted overkill for that car lol

vp ute I did 304 conversion I wanted as many factory parts as possible.......stock v8 85amp alternator,vs v6 thermofan with memcal switching fans on.

Works better than expected & till using funky old v6 battery ute came with when bought it years ago.

 

[Dean1985]

Thanks guys.

I think it may not be the Alt. Its delivering 14v at idle. I spoke to an electrician mate and he explained that for things to stop working without blowing fuses that the devices are losing Volts not current. The test of 14.4v at idle shows its outputting but its like theres a voltage drop somewhere.

My biggest concern was when connected to a scan tool the pcm is showing under 12volts. When i out the dash into diagnostic mode it shows voltage as well which at idle is 12v and goes under 12 at times as well (i think the reference is from the pcm?).

Does anyone know what the voltage to the pcm should sit at, stable?

All my earths are pristine. So we dont have an issue there .

Also with the 3k stall the car is seeing more revs now, less lugging.

 

[gtrboyy]

Think of it this way fans/lights/fuelpump/ecu & injectors all drawing current at same time slowly draining battery...most dudes in past who ran all that or added sound systems needed bigger alternator & better cabling particularly alt-battery cable.

Earths can be good but tiny cable from alt-battery won't handle all current pushed through it so battery slowly drains.

Put battery charger on it then go for drive with battery full charge the car will feel like it's gained power....some cars alternator &/or cabling need upgrading when add more stuff than car was designed for.

Ask Eyy,Deuce or other old heads it was a common issue from vb to vs models when sound systems installs or bf/fg thermofans etc....even with my own cars if too much current draw for what system can handle they'd start to break down,run like crap under 12 volts especially early girls it wasn't enough to keep hei working.

 

[Dean1985]

That could be all well and good to be an alt (i have spoken to an auto elec and he says my standard wire will be fine for 120amp) some come with larger wires.

I just dont want to drop 400odd on a alt and not see it sorted.

Blinkers dim the dash illumination. Pcm less than 12v. Its like the supply isnt there or theres a capacitance issue.

A suggestion was also aged relays?

 

[shane_3800]

You need to find a new auto elec. The old standard cables get old and VD will increase in old cars.

 

[Deuce]

Ask Eyy,Deuce or other old heads it was a common issue from vb to vs models when sound systems installs or bf/fg thermofans etc....even with my own cars if too much current draw for what system can handle they'd start to break down,run like crap under 12 volts especially early girls it wasn't enough to keep hei working.

WTF? How old am I?
LOL

But to add to everything. My head unit displays voltage, and sitting in traffic in the rain waiting to turn a corner with rear demister on (as well as brake lights, headlights, wipers etc) the display drops into low 10v range on display. But 100 extra rpm and it picks up nicely.
With some things off it will go high 14v range while driving.
Never compared head unit to actual battery reading though.
But gives an idea of add up on voltage drain. (rear demister is the worst offender)

 

[gtrboyy]

We been around since forums,the car mags heyday....car cruises etc....we're old haha

I'm lh torana vintage.