Alternator

I think you mean 10-11.5 volts?
I would try replacing the voltage regulator first, 9/10 times that's the issue with these old alternators, the brushes wear out. You can get a new aftermarket voltage reg for less than $50.

 

my alternator packed up 6months ago. I got a set of brushes for around $10 and rebuilt mine, I've had no issue's since!

 

The voltage reg is the black part that attaches to the back of the alternator(external) by 2 Phillips screws, if the charge rate is 11.5 then it's a safe bet that your alternator is the problem, also when the engine is running the alternator supplies power to all electrical components not the battery, so if you're having problems with the radio or dim lights that's another indicator that the alternator is your problem, just get a voltage reg and fit it, it's a very basic 5 min job, just make sure the battery is disconnected when you do the job, and as mentioned they are very cheap. Let us know how you go.

 

This. Should be well over 13v for a healthy alternator.

 

New brushes for alternator, rebuilt is not!

Bearings, diodes, windings cleaned up, brushes, regulator... that makes for a rebuild.... and a coat of paint

To the OP, yes, your alternator is kaput. The charge light usually only comes on when there is no connection between alternator and battery. Most likely as simple as a set of brushes, if your not skilled with a soldering iron, just change the whole reg assembly.

Depending on how long this has been the case, your battery may or may not be toast. I would definetly get the battery checked after getting the alternator repaired. While it may start the car, I wou;dn't be surprised if it wasn't capable of holding it's charge for very long anymore.... but who knows... I've been wrong before once.


Just once

 

New brushes for alternator, rebuilt is not!

Bearings, diodes, windings cleaned up, brushes, regulator... that makes for a rebuild.... and a coat of paint

To the OP, yes, your alternator is kaput. The charge light usually only comes on when there is no connection between alternator and battery. Most likely as simple as a set of brushes, if your not skilled with a soldering iron, just change the whole reg assembly.

Output for a healthy alternator should be in excess of 14Volts at the battery and a couple of points higher at the alternator itself. Usually 14.4 at battery and 14.5-14.7 off the back of the alternator

Depending on how long this has been the case, your battery may or may not be toast. I would definetly get the battery checked after getting the alternator repaired. While it may start the car, I wou;dn't be surprised if it wasn't capable of holding it's charge for very long anymore.... but who knows... I've been wrong before once.


Just once

 

Get a brand new oem standard alternator for 160 such as Jaylec, shelve the current one as alluded to it can be rebuilt, & it's always good to have a spare heart

Generally after all this activity it is best to replace the battery, as the current one will have been through alot of strain - keep that as well, car batteries come in handy for heaps of things >

 

Sorry mate, I meant I rebuilt it (as in re-assembled it) with the new brushes. I did not mean that I did a full overhaul and rebuild as you have described.
And yes, Coat of paint or a polish up of housings is a great idea while it is apart :thumbsup:

 

Sounds to me like the charge wire on the back of the alternator (that runs to the battery) has burnt out and needs replacing.

 

An auto elec will only replace what is broken when doing a reco, with the exception of bearings which are replaced. They won't be putting in new diodes etc unless they are stuffed. likewise if the slip rings are worn but not worn out they usually only machine then. 9 times out of 10 with these alternators it's worn out brushes.

 

14 years is pretty good, how many K's? When I had a VN I replaced the brushes twice, the bearings once in 10 years and 130,000km.

 

While I completely agree as these are not usually components that wear out over time... a new set of brushes does not make a reco..

 

I'd probably dump it...

 

Keep the old one, get a new set of bearings and brushes for it and keep it for a spare.

 

Agreed but an auto elec will machine the slip rings, wack in some new bearings and sell it as reco exchange. The one around here, the regulator is extra on top of the reco exchange price hence why last time I got him to put new bearings on the rotor and soldered in a new set of brushes myself, cost about $40.00 and was working fine when I sold it years later.