Anderson Plug Wiring VZ Wagon - Run Frige in camper whilst travelling

[phantomwalker]

Hi,
Just want to run power cables from vattery to rear toconnect to my camper trailer, will use this to run my frigde whilst travelling.

1. How do I get cables from battery to rear bumper.(any free holes through fire wall, I assume I remove lower inside floor trims to run cables, or other possibilities???
2. Can I connect into any free fuse or relays in the main fuse relay unit in the engine bay, so that power is nly on when car is on.


Thanksin advance for any help or links,
Phantom

 

[Jolls]

Hi Mr Walker

1. there should be no need for any holes in the vehicle unless you plan to bring power into the rear of the wagon so you can have the fridge running without the trailer. Simply follow some existing cabling down the chassis rail until you get to the rear.

2. I wouldn't be running off the existing fuses - The voltage drop over the distance you are talking is too much. Run a redarc or a solenoid between the start battery and the load so that it automativally disconnects when you turn the key off or whnthe voltage drops below a certain level. You have not indicated if there is a second battery in the system. If so would recommend adding a dcdc charger close to the second battery. Not a necessity on the VZ just a good way to regulate the charge of the second battery.

Having said that I had a solenoid between the the start battery and a fridge in the rear of my old 60 series and that never missed a beat.

It really depends on how you want to operate the system - spend a bit of time to work through that and you will be forever greatful.

On my current setup in the back of my work/camping ute I have the power running through a dcdc charger in the jack off canopy as the Hilix has a smart charging system. Connection is via and anderson plug on back to the main battery through a solenoid. Plus a trigger wire with seperate anderson plug. This feeds a separate battery that then runs through fuse box that splits the load out to lights and power. Protection between the start battery and three solar inputs/dc outputs is through resettable breakers, From the battery it is distributed through a fuse box for power and lights. The cable run from the main battery also runs to the towbar for when the camper is attached. Camper has another dcdc charge to look after its battery and separate solar inputs.

Whatever you do - work out the load you are expecting the cables to carry, add a bit for future proofing and work out what size cable you need to minimise voltsge drop otherwise you will be wasting your time. Do some research on how to best incorporate solar etc if that is part of your camping setup.